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ultimate racing long downpipe

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Old May 18, 2013 | 07:19 PM
  #1  
andrewRA's Avatar
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From: california
ultimate racing long downpipe

anybody had any problems installing this or can give a review on it going to purchase this but was interested to see if anyone notice any problems or any noticeable results its the ultimate racing 3 inch long downpipe with the separate o2 runner on it
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Old May 19, 2013 | 08:17 PM
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From: Miami
I have it, It's been on the car for about 3k miles now. It was a PITA to install just for the simple fact the bolts for the OEM O2 elbow were slightly corroded. Other then that it's a pretty straight forward install if you can get under the car with enough room. I wouldn't know the difference between the OEM Vs. the LDP performance wise since I installed it with an intake and got it tuned all at once.
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Old May 20, 2013 | 11:42 AM
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From: Philly/Jersey
It's basically easier to install the long downpipe than it is a separate o2 housing and short downpipe. The most difficult part will be the o2 housing bolts. You will need a dedicated swivel 14mm socket. You will need to soak the bolts/1nut on the o2 housing overnight.

So you can prep by removing the heatshields, splash guards and the suspension bar brace underneath. You could probably remove the stock downpipe from the cat to o2 housing. The o2 housing is the one you need to be careful with. However, with lots of PB Blaster it comes out with ease.
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Old Sep 3, 2013 | 04:07 PM
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Question about the stock down pipe: I was installing my Ultimate Racing HFC and CBE, and when I was under the car I noticed that the down pipe had a lot of movement in it. By that I mean I could easily push it towards the left or right side of the car and it wouldn't snap back into place. Could someone explain how this is possible? I thought the down pipe > o2 housing > turbo > manifold were all solidly bolted together. How can the down pipe move so much?

Reason I ask, is because after I installed the UR exhaust, I'm getting insane amounts of vibration, all the way from 2000-3000 RPM. It's a bit better in boost, but it's very bad during accel and decel. I understand it will be louder and drony-er than stock, but this is straight up vibrations throughout the entire car. I was wondering if it was connected to the down pipe somehow.

The exhaust has good clearance all around, and isn't hitting anything.
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 05:32 PM
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It flexes because of the spring/screws, and it will go back to how you had installed it. The vibrations may be the exhaust hitting the driveshaft. Mines does that occassionally when it vibrates a little too much. Just a little something to add...guys I could NOT get the B bolt off of the o2 housing to turbo....i tried everything, extensions, universals, swivel sockets...nothign worked, however I have taken it off before...can someone please lmk exactly what extensions/sockets they used for when I replace the whole damn thing with a long DP? Much appreciated!
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 09:40 PM
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From: Philly/Jersey
I had a craftmans 6pt Swivel 14mm socket shorty not a swivel joint with a 14mm socket, but a dedicated one.
Make sure your forearms can create about 300ft/lb of torque. I wish I could fit 1/2", but it was too tight. It just needs a lot of PB blaster and patience.

Also the single nut I think i used a 6" extension with a fixed 1/2" drive 14mm.

Also your rattle is probably the exhaust hitting the driveshaft mention earlier. You say you have clearance, but that clearance is when the car isn't moving. If you have better hangers it will hold the exhaust still. My catback was doing that at every start and stop in first gear. My hanger was very worn. I just rigged mines by attaching a hose clamp on the tow hook and the exhaust hanger.
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