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#1
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I am planning on doing an Evo X turbo swap with a goal of getting to 300 whp (or as close as possible) and wanted to get some guidance on the mods I am putting in. So far these are the parts I have purchased.
X turbo/parts needed for swap
X fmic
ETS uicp/licp
AMS boost pill
GFB response bov (planning to stay full recirc but I found it cheap and the vta option is always nice)
I am considering switching to a 3-port ebcs as I was under the impression it allows for a better tune and is more reliable (less boost spikes).
I was also going to get the UR HFC with a bung for the wide-band but was told that its not worth it without changing the entire exhaust. Is this true or is there a better more cost effective way to run the sensor for the wideband without changing the cat?
The last part I was planning on changing is the intake but I don't really want to move the battery or go to a small battery kit and so was considering the CBRD Ralliart intake for the X turbo swap. But I haven't seen many reviews of this and wanted to see what you guys thought of it. Also I have heard that a SRI can cause idle problems due to hot air from not moving.
Lastly any recommendations for a good E-tuner?
X turbo/parts needed for swap
X fmic
ETS uicp/licp
AMS boost pill
GFB response bov (planning to stay full recirc but I found it cheap and the vta option is always nice)
I am considering switching to a 3-port ebcs as I was under the impression it allows for a better tune and is more reliable (less boost spikes).
I was also going to get the UR HFC with a bung for the wide-band but was told that its not worth it without changing the entire exhaust. Is this true or is there a better more cost effective way to run the sensor for the wideband without changing the cat?
The last part I was planning on changing is the intake but I don't really want to move the battery or go to a small battery kit and so was considering the CBRD Ralliart intake for the X turbo swap. But I haven't seen many reviews of this and wanted to see what you guys thought of it. Also I have heard that a SRI can cause idle problems due to hot air from not moving.
Lastly any recommendations for a good E-tuner?
Last edited by wootywoot; Mar 20, 2018 at 07:43 AM.
#2
I think you'll also need a Evo X upgraded exhaust manifold. The stock Evo X manifold is garbage, since they'll crack under pressure in time. Also maybe consider a turbo back exhaust to leave the potential of going beyond 300 HP Ultimate Racing has a nice set up. A wide band AFR and boost guages for tuning and monitoring purposes. Definetly stay away from a Cobb tune, they don't have a clue about the SST MR/Ralliart platforms, so stay away from that nonsense. I'm also working on a similar project. A Walboro 255 or 450 fuel pump setup is a part worth getting. Suspension, and brakes wouldn't hurt. I seen someone put 6 piston 09-12 Cadillac CTS V Brembo brake calipers with Evo x aftermarket disc drilled/slotted brakes on the Ralliart, which looked pretty tough on the Evo X MR rims. Swap the brake rubber lines with stainless steel braided brake lines too. Along with an improved brake fluid. Amsoil brake fluid research is a good start. Just me two cents here. Good luck with everything man. There's a lot more stuff you can do on the Ralliart for your 300HP setup.
#3
I think the evo x swap is too mild for all that work. I would do a boostlab 20g, steamspeed evo x turbo, mhi 18k or fp green/red. I am slightly biased on the boostlab 20g because I purchased one. Call MAP, buy their evo x parts kit, map manifold and 02 dump. Get some id1050x injectors, a aem pump, dw or walboro 450. Move your battery to the back, evo x intake of your choice, test pipe and a ralliart catback. You dont need brakes. Unless yours are going bad or you are auto crossing. Find a good e tuner or local tuner that knows his stuff on the sst
Last edited by jonathanevox; Mar 24, 2018 at 09:58 AM.
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Thanks for the advice I didn't realize that the exhaust manifolds cracked so often. Unfortunately I will be having to deal with passing California smog so I have to get a carb approved intake and was wondering if anyone had any experience with the injen SRI or any other advice for a carb approved intake.
#5
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There aren't many options for CA intakes that I can think of. Just get an RRE intake adapter and use your stock RA intake with a good drop-in filter. You won't max out the stock intake anyway if your goals are only 300hp. Ditch the boost pill and get a 3-port from either Cobb or Grimmspeed. It's alot easier on your tuner and gives more precise boost control for them.
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Thanks for the tip with the RRE adapter I think that is what I am going to go with. Also I know I need the Evo X downpipe and was told I would need both pieces. I am not sure if the downpipe splits up into two pieces or he means the o2 housing and the downpipe but this is the downpipe I purchased (I have the o2 housing as well).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-15-Mitsu...53.m2749.l2649
Is correct or do I need another part?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-15-Mitsu...53.m2749.l2649
Is correct or do I need another part?
#7
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Thanks for the tip with the RRE adapter I think that is what I am going to go with. Also I know I need the Evo X downpipe and was told I would need both pieces. I am not sure if the downpipe splits up into two pieces or he means the o2 housing and the downpipe but this is the downpipe I purchased (I have the o2 housing as well).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-15-Mitsu...53.m2749.l2649
Is correct or do I need another part?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-15-Mitsu...53.m2749.l2649
Is correct or do I need another part?
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#8
Thanks for the advice I didn't realize that the exhaust manifolds cracked so often. Unfortunately I will be having to deal with passing California smog so I have to get a carb approved intake and was wondering if anyone had any experience with the injen SRI or any other advice for a carb approved intake.
#9
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The AEM intake is carb legal and its the intake I went with actually. I just finished my swap and I'm in the middle of tuning it now. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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