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The RIGHT WAY to Flush your SST Trans

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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #46  
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From: SWFL
Do not use mineral spirits it will degrade the clutch material. Only use mineral oil it won't hurt anything.
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #47  
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From: Kelowna, CANADA
great write up. wish I knew this a few weeks ago. In Canada the dealers want $750-$900 to do this job and I know they are not going to this extent of a flush.
I did a drain and fill and it's still pretty jerky. hurts to cough up the dough for more diaqueen to do it again. I got a 'deal' from the local stealership at a cost of $268 for one tin of the damn stuff. Can't help but feel like I'm being bent over....

I didn't change the filter yet though. guess I better do that.
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Old Feb 28, 2012 | 03:46 AM
  #48  
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From: SWFL
Change the filter mine was clogged bad
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 05:00 PM
  #49  
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great write up bro!! quick question, if you want to do a drain and fill, its approximately 2 gallons right? from the 3 drain bolts and tranny, it was a total of just under 2 gallons correct? im still iffy about the whole mineral oil, so im just going to drain and fill, with new filter, and maybe in a month drain and fill again, to try to get out the other fluid
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #50  
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From: SWFL
You are correct three drain Bolts and 2 gallons of mineral oil for the flush.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 05:02 PM
  #51  
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^thanks
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 03:07 PM
  #52  
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i over tightened my filter and this is what happened, FML!!!


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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 11:33 PM
  #53  
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From: CT
oh that sucks man....the other thread there were a couple of people that broke the clip thingy and warned people to be careful...so when i swapped mine I was being extra paranoid.

great writeup btw....wish you would've posted this before I did my SST fluid change...didn't drain the cooler all I drained was the main reservoir....and the mineral oil flush would've been awesome...
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 09:07 AM
  #54  
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Just did my fluid change yesterday. Thought I would post 2 more tips.

1) A 1 1/4" socket works perfectly on the filter housing, if you don't have a 32mm.

2) While the oil cooler is loose, this is a GREAT time to take some compressed air and blow it out. I probably got a 1/2lb of gravel & dirt from the fins of the oil cooler. I spent a good 20+ minutes with my air gun blowing back and forth on each side loosening everything up and getting it out of there. Can't do much cooling if the fins are all clogged with junk!

Oh, and I used the Pentosin FFL2 fluid menioned in other threads here as well - paid just over $125 shipped for 8L.

My car has just over 73k on it with an unknown history of transmission oil changes, so I really felt under the gun to do it. Fluid looked just a little dirty, but the filter was ugly, and dated from 2008.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 10:33 AM
  #55  
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^have you ever had any problems prior or after with your transmission? i keep hearing about people and grinding problems during start up, including me. im thinking of trading up to a GSR
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:53 PM
  #56  
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Did you mention doing the Trans fluid change at 60k+ miles? How was the car runnng at 45k? just wondering since this is a very expensive service.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #57  
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Twice in the first week after buying my car, I had the grind at startup. It hasn't happened since then, and certainly not since the fluid change.

I can say for certain that the car shifts much better since the fluid & filter change. I'd say the filter was causing a restriction, based on how gummed up it was.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #58  
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From: SWFL
I would say the same my filter was pretty bad, next time I'm going to get a reusable tranny filter.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 08:31 AM
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This thread needs to be a permanently sticky.
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Old May 14, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tiresomejunk
This thread needs to be a permanently sticky.
It is:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...w-archive.html
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