The RIGHT WAY to Flush your SST Trans
Jun 29, 2012, 02:34 AM
#64
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Well, thanks for all of your hard work. There are lots of horses around these parts, so I'm hoping to have some options
The whole thing just seems so very odd.
Jul 3, 2012, 09:07 PM
#65
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Picked up 2 gallons of Mineral Oil at a local animal feed shop as well. Also used FFL-2.
If you are on the fence about doing it yourself, DON'T BE. Use this write up and you will do just fine. The mineral oil actually came out a little dirtier then I anticipated.
Some tips:
1) I did not remove my bumper, I instead drained the oil cooler by taking off a lower hose clamp that leads to the SST Filter housing and let that drain for about 10 minutes. This will take a little longer then removing the bolt and tilting the cooler.
2) Be gentle with the removal of the SST filter cap. I also used a small flat head to pry the clip away during ratcheting. You'll realize how brittle it feels when you have it in your hands to inspect.
3) Remove battery, remove battery tray, Ta-Da! A hex fitting with your new fluid's name in it. It's on a funky angle but your L-shaped hex will fit.
I measured about a total of 7.4 - 7.5qts after draining the lines and cooler. Get new splash shield clips...you might break one or two.
If you are on the fence about doing it yourself, DON'T BE. Use this write up and you will do just fine. The mineral oil actually came out a little dirtier then I anticipated.
Some tips:
1) I did not remove my bumper, I instead drained the oil cooler by taking off a lower hose clamp that leads to the SST Filter housing and let that drain for about 10 minutes. This will take a little longer then removing the bolt and tilting the cooler.
2) Be gentle with the removal of the SST filter cap. I also used a small flat head to pry the clip away during ratcheting. You'll realize how brittle it feels when you have it in your hands to inspect.
3) Remove battery, remove battery tray, Ta-Da! A hex fitting with your new fluid's name in it. It's on a funky angle but your L-shaped hex will fit.
I measured about a total of 7.4 - 7.5qts after draining the lines and cooler. Get new splash shield clips...you might break one or two.
Last edited by tetsuo12333; Jul 3, 2012 at 09:15 PM.
Feb 23, 2013, 08:50 AM
#67
I've seen other threads on people doing through each gear for a minute or two with the mineral oil in to help get out all of the clutch particulate. With zero load, this shouldn't cause any problems should it? I'm also going to be using the Pentosin FFL-2 fluid as well.
Feb 24, 2013, 09:06 AM
#71
It's actually not that detrimental. Mitsubishi recognizes a small portion of mineral oil as acceptable since it is in their service procedure. SSP and others have confirmed this as well.
You can further reduce the amount of residual mineral oil if you drain the cooler in addition to the drain plugs. Worth the extra effort, imo, since you are bothering to go so far as to do a complete flush, anyway.
You can further reduce the amount of residual mineral oil if you drain the cooler in addition to the drain plugs. Worth the extra effort, imo, since you are bothering to go so far as to do a complete flush, anyway.
May 20, 2013, 08:01 AM
#74
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Thanks for the write up... Changed it this past weekend.
Few notes: I did not mess with the Trans Cooler
My 2010 only has 2 drain bolts. Is that correct?
I removed 5.7L of old fluid through the 2 drain bolts and filter housing.
I added 7.5L of mineral oil, drained about all of it.
I added 6L of new fluid.
Shift are good, better than before. No warning lights or any errors.
So did I miss anything? Should I add the extra 1.5L?
Few notes: I did not mess with the Trans Cooler
My 2010 only has 2 drain bolts. Is that correct?
I removed 5.7L of old fluid through the 2 drain bolts and filter housing.
I added 7.5L of mineral oil, drained about all of it.
I added 6L of new fluid.
Shift are good, better than before. No warning lights or any errors.
So did I miss anything? Should I add the extra 1.5L?