parralegend

Hi Guys,

I'm finally ready to do this except I need to make sure I've got the correct part together, I've read through about 3 different guides and I now have a understanding how the procedure works but need some confirmation on parts.

I have A oil draining pan, a tom thumb oil pump and a flexi funnel and of course the diaqueen fluid from Mitsubishi.

The main thing I want to know is what sockets/extra tools do i require(I need exact specifics because I'll be going to buy anything I don't have ).

If this works out I might get frivolous and do the sst at the same time but I have no idea where to find mineral oil (I have the sst fluid cans and the filter).

Thanks guys

AusTweak

Do you have a jug to measure the fluid and a can of brake cleaner to clean everything after

parralegend

I have a 2L container with 50ml markings and i do have brake cleaner :-). Is that to clean up the drain plug? Is therr anything here that could possibly need to be replaced when i put everythong back together? I just dont want to get half way through and a plug or something needs to be replaced lol :-) anything else? Do i need a torque wrench to measure how tight the plugs are like what the service mabual indicates or is it a feel thing?

gaabbee

An alan key set. If I remember correctly the rear diff drain plug is an alan key, along with the sst drain plugs. Big alan keys too. You might be able to use a wrench too, can't really remember

AusTweak

Yeah used it to clean the drain plug and clean the measurement containers before u put fresh fluid into them
Id prob change the crush washer aswell which sits on the drain plugs. As you may get a fluid weep even tho its tight.
I did mine up by hand but thats just my experience at a mechanic coming into play for feel.
Id say use a torque wrench and get a feel for how tight it should be first then you will remember it

parralegend

Sweet as. So im reading 24mm And 17mm for the torwue wrench and allen keys. I can duck past mitsubishi for washers as well i just need to confirm the part numbers. Im confident in doing it but ive only ever done a skyline and a tx3 anda gazillion oil changes.

AusTweak

TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE
M1225008100220
1.Remove the engine room under cover front B assembly. (Refer to GROUP 51 − Under Cover P.51-15.)
2.Start the engine, and let it run at idle to warm it up for 15 minutes.
3.Move the shift lever to every position (P, R, N, D, manual mode) (Hold for 20 seconds in each position), and then move it to the P range.
4.Stop the engine.
5.Remove the air cleaner element and air cleaner intake duct. (Refer to GROUP 15 − Air Cleaner P.15-11.)
6.Remove the filler plug.
7.Remove the drain plug, and leave it for 3 minutes to drain the fluid.
NOTE:
Because the fluid in the oil cooler, oil filter, and transaxle assembly cannot be drained, the amount of drained fluid will be approximately 5.5 dm3 (approximately 5.8 quarts).
8.Tighten the drain plug to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 35 ± 5 N⋅m (26 ± 4 ft-lb)

There is a SST service manual d/l floating around on the interwebs too

parralegend

Too good my friend thankyou

parralegend

Ok so this xperiment took way longer than it shiuld have and i only done the rear diff but will do the transfer case tomoz. It drained about 300 or so into my measuring bottle so im guessing maybe 320-340 ml to the pan. When i filled it up i kept pumping it in untik it gushed out from the fill plug then i done it one more time to be certain and it started gushing out again. I probably used close to 800 ml because of the overflow lol can someone tell me though is there tell tale signs of not enough diff fluid?

I witnessed it gush back out during filling but im just not 100% percent confident. All the plugs matched up perfectly again.
Heers

gaabbee

If it overflowed out the fill whole your good to go. Same goes for the transfer case but there is a stupid thing that blocks the fill whole on the inside and will make a mess if you try to fill it too fast.

parralegend

I have a video of it and hopefully the the transfer case when i tackle that. One question though, tightening to 32nm was a complete a****** but I managed to get it to click, how do you guys manage to get it undone because my torque wrench was useless i had to get a big bar and go for it(this resulted in me slicing the back of my hand against the rollbar ).

Thanks

parralegend

Ok done the transfer case in the 33c degree heat lol. I tried to pour according to mitsus specs but i had no way of viewing the measurement so i poured it in until it leaked out and double checked it.

I then was paranoid about the rear diffnot having enough fluid so i opened the fill hole again and filled and until it overflowed out , i then torqued it but i think i went 33-34 nm so a bit over i hope it wont dramatically cause issues im assuming not but i wasnt going to reopen i again. I don this all with a mate this time to make sure i done it all good.

I then took it for a half hour drive back home and it seemed to be way smoother hen chsnging gears and accelerating so i hope when i do the gearbox in the next coming days it shifts and drives. Like butter.

parralegend

Ok long time between drinks on this one but i've been trying to diagnose other problems i've had with a wierd clunking noise and all of a sudden i spot a small diff leak coming from the fill hole of the rear diff.

Anyways I decide I'll do a diff oil change at the same time and bought a washer MF660036 as stated in a post on here and the farker does not fit over the fill plug. I compared it against the "crushed" original and it appears to be the same size but it honestly won't go around the thread, is it meant to be heaps tight or should is naturally screw around the fill plug thread?

The fill plug was pretty easy to get off which made me think my leak may have been caused by a lazy torque job on my first change.

Thanks

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

It should go over the plug threads quite easily. Should not even have to be threaded on, just slip over.

parralegend

I have a feeling that either the plugs have changed size(unlikely) or stupid Mitsubishi parts salesmen gave me a washer that's way to small the a*****. Ended up getting copper crushers from a performance shop that seemed to fit quite well and after 45 minutes of hard driving I have no leaks. I was informed it might be worth using 'pipe sealer' if there was slight leaks however it seemed to form a perfect bond .

Thanks for your help mate