The Brake Rotor, Pad, Line, Fluid, and Duct Thread
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Lol, thanks! Actually, it's a concerted effort now for I find I learn more by taking SOME things into my own hands and struggling a bit before I ask more experienced "bro" a question. I'm sure you can relate to this one, for it was one of those, "I had the noise before I upgraded the brakes, didn't I?" So, the shim/no shim issue didn't seem to be related, or did it? This time it was, lol! I'm glad it's resolved.......................................... .....for now!
I'm still searching for a duct solution for the Alcon Mono 6 application. 2.5" or 3" would be best and I know someone that got the Forge Motorsport ones to work, but Forge stopped selling them.
Anyone know if someone has a set just sitting around?
Anyone know if someone has a set just sitting around?
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
I installed EBC slotted/dimpled rotors and EBC yellowstuff pads on my '04 Sportback Ralliart. The pads came with rubber, adhesive shims which I trimmed to fit. Not knowing any better I also fit the OEM metal shims over the rubber. This caused an excessively tight fit in the front brakes which resulted in excessive dust and overheating, as well as overly loud, slotted friction noise while driving. I removed the metal shims and left the rubber. Albeit looser, a tight fit still resulted. This resulted in the brake piston cutting into the rubber and deformation of the opposite side shim. I was still having minor overheating issues. I removed the rubber and used the OEM shims only...same issues. This time I removed the shims completely and, although it eliminated the slotted, friction noise, I had really loud clapping when going over perpendicular rises or dropoffs in the road. I chased this for a while, until I conceeded with the brother-in-law's suggestion to reinstall the OEM shims to see if this eliminated the clapping noise. Already anticipating a tight fit, I installed the piston side OEM shim only. Voila! No excessive friction, no overheating, no clapping/squeaking, good performance. Am I safe using only one shim?
Boy, do I feel a bit STOOPID. The "tight fit / overheating" issue wasn't because of the pads, nor the shims (rubber or metal), nor one side or the other, it was because I didn't compress the piston with the brake tool like I should have.
I didn't have the tool at the time of installing the new pads, so impatiently, I was able to squeeze the calipers back onto the new pads/shims, causing the excessive tightness/friction/noise. Recently renting the tool from AutoZone, I came home, disassembled my front brakes and started from the beginning, following the appropriate steps this time. I removed the rubber shims, reinstalled the OEM shims x 4, and haven't had any issues since, well, almost. I still get that "rattling" noise when I go over a bridge joint or an acute drop off/rise in the road, just not as prevalent now, and I'm convinced it my brake pads. Why is this an issue with me? This rattling just doesn't seem normal. Or is it and I've never been attuned to it for the last 34 years of driving other vehicles? I've checked what I can think of as far as loose brake/suspension linkages but everything is tight.
Boy, do I feel a bit STOOPID. The "tight fit / overheating" issue wasn't because of the pads, nor the shims (rubber or metal), nor one side or the other, it was because I didn't compress the piston with the brake tool like I should have.
I didn't have the tool at the time of installing the new pads, so impatiently, I was able to squeeze the calipers back onto the new pads/shims, causing the excessive tightness/friction/noise. Recently renting the tool from AutoZone, I came home, disassembled my front brakes and started from the beginning, following the appropriate steps this time. I removed the rubber shims, reinstalled the OEM shims x 4, and haven't had any issues since, well, almost. I still get that "rattling" noise when I go over a bridge joint or an acute drop off/rise in the road, just not as prevalent now, and I'm convinced it my brake pads. Why is this an issue with me? This rattling just doesn't seem normal. Or is it and I've never been attuned to it for the last 34 years of driving other vehicles? I've checked what I can think of as far as loose brake/suspension linkages but everything is tight.
I didn't have the tool at the time of installing the new pads, so impatiently, I was able to squeeze the calipers back onto the new pads/shims, causing the excessive tightness/friction/noise. Recently renting the tool from AutoZone, I came home, disassembled my front brakes and started from the beginning, following the appropriate steps this time. I removed the rubber shims, reinstalled the OEM shims x 4, and haven't had any issues since, well, almost. I still get that "rattling" noise when I go over a bridge joint or an acute drop off/rise in the road, just not as prevalent now, and I'm convinced it my brake pads. Why is this an issue with me? This rattling just doesn't seem normal. Or is it and I've never been attuned to it for the last 34 years of driving other vehicles? I've checked what I can think of as far as loose brake/suspension linkages but everything is tight.
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Edit: Forgot to mention, with the Tein coilovers as well.
Last edited by truthdweller; Jun 21, 2012 at 10:03 PM.
Hi All,
I noticed that my local shop is selling StopTech STR-600 and STR-660 brake fluids. These seem to have comparable pricing to Motul RBF600 and RBF660.
StopTech STR-600 High Performance Street Brake Fluid
Typical Dry Boiling Point: 594°F (312°C)
Typical Wet Boiling Point: 404°F (206°C)
Minimum Wet Boiling Point: 383°F (195°C)
500mL metal container gives fluid a 25% longer shelf life
Part Number: 501.00001
StopTech STR-660 Ultra Performance Race Brake Fluid
Typical Dry Boiling Point: 622°F (328°C)
Typical Wet Boiling Point: 404°F (206°C)
Minimum Wet Boiling Point: 383°F (195°C)
500mL metal container gives fluid a 25% longer shelf life
Part Number: 501.00002
Product info here:
http://www.stoptech.com/products/str-brake-fluid
Has any one used these StopTech fluids at the track? My local store has much more of the StopTech fluid in stock that it does Motul (my usual brake fluid of choice).
I noticed that my local shop is selling StopTech STR-600 and STR-660 brake fluids. These seem to have comparable pricing to Motul RBF600 and RBF660.
StopTech STR-600 High Performance Street Brake Fluid
Typical Dry Boiling Point: 594°F (312°C)
Typical Wet Boiling Point: 404°F (206°C)
Minimum Wet Boiling Point: 383°F (195°C)
500mL metal container gives fluid a 25% longer shelf life
Part Number: 501.00001
StopTech STR-660 Ultra Performance Race Brake Fluid
Typical Dry Boiling Point: 622°F (328°C)
Typical Wet Boiling Point: 404°F (206°C)
Minimum Wet Boiling Point: 383°F (195°C)
500mL metal container gives fluid a 25% longer shelf life
Part Number: 501.00002
Product info here:
http://www.stoptech.com/products/str-brake-fluid
Has any one used these StopTech fluids at the track? My local store has much more of the StopTech fluid in stock that it does Motul (my usual brake fluid of choice).
http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Mits...ake_Fluid.html
Description Part # MSRP Price
STR-600 Brake Fluid - 500mL 501.00001 $16.99 $16.99
STR-660 Brake Fluid - 500mL 501.00002 $27.99 $27.99
Description Part # MSRP Price
STR-600 Brake Fluid - 500mL 501.00001 $16.99 $16.99
STR-660 Brake Fluid - 500mL 501.00002 $27.99 $27.99
Race pad re-bed question.
I did a couple sessions on my DTC60's with new rotors after properly bedding them in. I've driven them on the street for a few hundred miles now, the transfer layer is gone and they are noisy(neighbors love it! lol). I'm getting ready to head back to the track, should I definitely re-bed them or can I just hit the track and they will re-transfer and be ok, or....?
Not overly fond of hitting 100ish multiple times in a row to rebed....in less than track conditions.
I did a couple sessions on my DTC60's with new rotors after properly bedding them in. I've driven them on the street for a few hundred miles now, the transfer layer is gone and they are noisy(neighbors love it! lol). I'm getting ready to head back to the track, should I definitely re-bed them or can I just hit the track and they will re-transfer and be ok, or....?
Not overly fond of hitting 100ish multiple times in a row to rebed....in less than track conditions.
Figured I would post this just for general info...
I just removed these from my car last weekend, they're Raybestos ST43's with around 12 days on them (about 50 sessions or so, couple wet days in there), bunch of Autox and some street driving. These things wear great, and stop like a ****. I used Carbotech XP10's before this and while I liked the Carbo's I felt they wore quickly, the ST's seem to last a good while.
The car is a full weight VIII, OE lines and no ducts, 255 StarSpecs, 300whp and 320wtq (CrazyHouseKustoms Mustang Dyno).
I would highly recommend these pads to anyone looking to try something different. The only draw back on them is they are extremely loud on the street.
I just removed these from my car last weekend, they're Raybestos ST43's with around 12 days on them (about 50 sessions or so, couple wet days in there), bunch of Autox and some street driving. These things wear great, and stop like a ****. I used Carbotech XP10's before this and while I liked the Carbo's I felt they wore quickly, the ST's seem to last a good while.
The car is a full weight VIII, OE lines and no ducts, 255 StarSpecs, 300whp and 320wtq (CrazyHouseKustoms Mustang Dyno).
I would highly recommend these pads to anyone looking to try something different. The only draw back on them is they are extremely loud on the street.
Last edited by grillpt; Aug 27, 2012 at 08:53 AM.
Figured I would post this just for general info...
I just removed these from my car last weekend, they're Raybestos ST43's with around 12 days on them (about 50 sessions or so, couple wet days in there), bunch of Autox and some street driving. These things wear great, and stop like a ****. I used Carbotech XP10's before this and while I liked the Carbo's I felt they wore quickly, the ST's seem to last a good while.
The car is a full weight VIII, OE lines and no ducts, 300whp and 320wtq (CrazyHouseKustoms Mustang Dyno).
I would highly recommend these pads to anyone looking to try something different. The only draw back on them is they are extremely loud on the street.
I just removed these from my car last weekend, they're Raybestos ST43's with around 12 days on them (about 50 sessions or so, couple wet days in there), bunch of Autox and some street driving. These things wear great, and stop like a ****. I used Carbotech XP10's before this and while I liked the Carbo's I felt they wore quickly, the ST's seem to last a good while.
The car is a full weight VIII, OE lines and no ducts, 300whp and 320wtq (CrazyHouseKustoms Mustang Dyno).
I would highly recommend these pads to anyone looking to try something different. The only draw back on them is they are extremely loud on the street.