He was making sure you weren't running out of fuel with the stock pump and causing the lean situation due to the stock fuel pump's lack of flow.

 

Thanks jbrown! I did not see it listed in his signature...just making sure he was not on the stock pump and running out of fuel.

 

Yes normally it does. The upgraded fuel pump is at a higher Ltr/Hr.

With a WAHLBRO fuel pump, I would've thought it be required to lean out the
fuel mixture more then the off shelf MAPS.



.

 

OK, I swapped to the stock panel filter, disconnected the battery for a while to reset the ECU and did two more logs.

At least on my car the, swapping to a stock filter from a K&N did not make much of a difference. The maps are still lean. Here are the two logs and the table that sums up the two logs. Most of the data points ar in the 12+ AFR. The maps are lean regardless of the panel filter.

First log




Second log



Sum of both logs



I am going to load the modified map where I added 4% to the fuel table than I will do another log and post the results.

As things stand the off-the-shelf 93 octane map runs lean on my car. The 91 octane map should be the same as far as the AFR.

 

Hmmm, interesting... Someones been busy.

That certainly confirms the lean condition either way.

I wouldn't be surprised if my 91 and 93 maps are at least little on the lean side.

Once I get a field harness, I'm going to install my Zietronics so I get a better
idea about what's going on.

Between the Xede and field harness, I'll have a boatload of wires.

Well at least you know what has to be done, Thank goodness for widebands.


.

 

OK, here is what I did. I kept the stock filter since it did not make much of a difference. I added 4% fuel to the fuel table of the map. I zeroed out load points 15 and 20 since they became positive after I added 4%. I believe these loads are for cruising and will not cause harm or have any virtue.

I went out and did a couple of logs. Here they are.

Log one +4% fuel



Log two +4% fuel



Sum of both logs



I am happy to say that this Xede stuff works. This is my FIRST ever attempt at tuning and I like it

Should I keep the maps like this or should I add more fuel? This is on 93 octane mix that I create by mixing about 3.5 gallons of 100 octane and 9.5-10 gallons of 91 octane.

I am also thinking of adding more boost up top. I do not like the way the boost tapers below 17. I can live with a taper to 17.5, but below that is too much taper IMO.

What is the percentage offset to add 1 psi of boost?

 

Those logs looks alot better. The first log in this series looks the best. I feel most secure running 11.2.

Basically I don't believe bringing the boost table above
100 does much good. (not sure)

According to the link below they have an inline bleeder that
raises the boost by 3 or 4 psi.

Here's a sticky from Shiv himself.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=135901

I'm new to tuning myself and feel the Xede is good to learn with, because
it's not like flashing the ECU over and over.

I bought the tactrix ECU + table, so I can remove the revlimit and other un-desireable features in the factory program.

Questions: Where is your wideband O2 sensor installed ?

What BOV are you running ?



.

 

So you think 11.4-11.5 is still too lean on 93 octane gas.

The boost tables on Shiv's maps are not set to 100% on the high end. I think setting them to 100% will do the trick of reducing the taper to 17 only. On my 91 octane custom map the table is at 100% from 6000 rpm to cutoff.

I like the Xede because I can keep a virgin ECU and the dealer cannot detect it if I remove it.

I installed my O2 sensor in the middle of the downpipe about 18-20 inches from the O2 housing. But that is NOT the ideal position. Place yours right at the end of the downpipe before the cat in the 2-3 o'clock position. that is what Shiv does.

I am running a JDM DV. It is the same one for the EVO IX.

 

11.4-11.5 is probably ok, I just don't want you to hurt your motor.

Without monitor EGT or knock I would stay on the safe side towards 11.2.
Especially in this heat. That's just my opinion and what I would do if it was
my car.

Your setup is very similar to mine and I bet my car is on the lean side.
I use a JDM DV, WORKS ceramic 3" d/p, custom made 3" I/P, steathworks muffler,
Cusco silicon induction tube with stock air box, HKS Hybrid Super filter, Kartboy
exhaust hangers, Autometer boost gauge and steering column pod ( soon to be
replace with the Zeitronix ). Ultimate racing HFC all the best fluids and of
course the Xede V2 Stage 0+ with 91 and racegas map.

12 o'clock on your d/p should be fine. I might install mine in the same spot.

That's strange my boost tables were already at 100 towards the upper RPMs.
U might as well crank those up to 100%.

I can understand the warranty concerns about keeping the ECU untouched.
The Xede was the best solution for me right now, it rocks, I'm happy with it.

Have you thought about Cams? Cams wake Evo's up bigtime.
My friends have them, thier remarkable.

Anyways, it's a good thing you installed a wideband.
Are you using the LC1 ?

Also do you take your Evo to H.B. Mitsubishi ?



.

 

Why don't you try "Evo Joe Stg 0+" map from here....https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hlight=houston

The dyno numbers are here:

Whp and Torque:


Boost and AFR:

 

I will add 1-2% more of fuel and that should bring it down more. I am also logging timing with my pocket logger and did not notice any serious timing pull to indicate knock. This was my last run:

RPM, Timing
2668.0, 21.0
2797.0, 17.0
2879.0, 16.0
3000.0, 15.0
3152.0, 11.0
3289.0, 8.0
3461.0, 6.0
3629.0, 5.0
3855.0, 2.0
4098.0, 4.0
4305.0, 5.0
4477.0, 6.0
4719.0, 6.0
4879.0, 7.0
5086.0, 8.0
5301.0, 9.0
5484.0, 8.0
5625.0, 9.0
5809.0, 11.0
6000.0, 12.0
6117.0, 13.0
6313.0, 15.0
6453.0, 17.0
6621.0, 19.0
6738.0, 20.0
6867.0, 21.0
7004.0, 22.0
7129.0, 23.0

If you are using off-the-shelf maps, then more than likely you are running lean.

I did that , but I did not upload the map yet.

I thought about cams, but I do not think I am going to do it. I just want to keep the engine "closed." The car has enoguh power for now.

I have had this wideband since before the EVO. I have used it to measure the timing on my SE-R race car as well as the SE-R Spec V project car that I am managing/writing about for Nissan Performance Magazine. When I got the EVO, I permanently installed it in the car.

It is the LM-1 unit with an XD-16 gauge and the innovate analog AFR gauge. Works really nice for me.

I do my own maintanence. So far I have had no reason to tkae the car back.

 

You can add more fuel or run a couple more gallons of 100.

Either way should give you a margin of safety.


I agree, I'm glad I've been running on the 91 Map with high octane fuel.


I think you'll like it.


I can understand that. That's part of the reasons why I haven't
installed Cams yet.


That sounds like a good setup, I was just curious.
How ironic, I used to have a bolted Molton Silver 2004 SpecV before the Evo.
I'd be interested to see the artice on Nissan Performance Magazine.


Same here. I just had to take it in for the turbo coolant hose recall.
I also want to have my ACD serviced, I would do it if I had the MUT tool.
If you do ever need warranty service. H.B. is pretty good.

BTW I have 5500 miles.





.

 

Every single map I've downloaded for my car has been too lean. Dyno'ing after staged upgrades almost always indicated AFRs at 13.5:1 at peak torque and timing retard around 5500rpm. I always have to add some fuel and tweak some timing to get a nice smooth curve. It should be noted that even with the walbro I am starting to lean out up top on pump gas. My injector duty cycle is reaching 100% on pump.

The maps that are posted up there now are maps used on other Shiv dyno'd cars. Most of these tunes feel more like drag racing maps than open track maps. I mean they make a pass see knock and pull a little timing or possibly add a little fuel. Once they get a smooth curve they don't then yank an extra % of time for safety. So you have a map that is safe for a dyno pull but not tuned for a long 4th gear pull during a 20 minute lapping session.

Furthermore, the difference in AFRs becomes greater with non-standard go-fast parts. For example, my K&N drop in, silicon intake pipe, and ebay O2 housing all made significant changes to my tune and boost table. Hearing you fellas comment about climbing AFRs on LOWER boost is a bit scarey to me because I normally drop my boost down for HPDE events thinking its safer! I dont run my wideband 24/7. I'm glad I've been adding that splash of turbo blue (110 leaded) in there "just in case".

What this comes down to is that EVERYONE needs to take monitoring AFRs and TIMING more seriously than they have been. Fortuneately for us the stock ECU pulls timing hard when it see knock. This help prevent "bad things" from happening but also robs the untuned of precious HP that could be recovered by a simply tune.

 

I agree with those statements wholeheartedly. Once all my components come in
I'll have all the proper tools for monitoring all the vital engine parameters.

With that said, I wish I would have installed a wideband, egt, etc before
installing the Xede. I'm surprised there hasn't been more blown motors.

The only thing that has saved me is the more than 50% 100 octane fuel I run on
a regular basis. Honestly; sometimes I think I hear a ticking noise near the glove box.



.

 

i have pushed my car very seriously i do a lot of drag racing, i have a 91oct map on my xede but i always use a higher octane with that map just to be safe,also i have done dataloging with my pocketlogger and 1* degree of timing is the most that the ecu pulls back which i think its harmless,also i have the wideband and i was running 12.0-12.5afr's on 3er gear pulls for a long time but nothing bad has happened,know i feel more confortable running 11.0-11.5afrs but the car doesnt have that extra power as it does with the afrs leaner!
i think you can lean out things to the point that knock doesnt occur so how much timing is acceptable for the ecu to pull back?