After searching the forum, all I found was a page from an earlier Evo shop manual showing lift points front & rear center (for floorjacks) and next to each tire for the scissors jack. One thread said dealers use those scissor jack points for their hydraulic lifts.

Everyone agree with that, or are there better places to put the four lift pads on a four-arm 2-post lift?

 

i use the scissor jack points daily and have never had an issue. just stick with that. but watch out for the side skirts.

 

watch the side skirts, aim for the pinch welds and spread the arms out enough on the lift

 

I leave pads flat and use 2X4's I made to fit between pad and pinch seam

 

That's kinda what I had in mind, but I didn't know if people found it necessary to cut a slot in the wood to protect the underbody.

 

This is pretty cool, but kinda pricey since I'd need four of them:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=2061

But I could saw off four chunks of 2-inch square steel tubing and slot one side with a plasma cutter and set those blocks between the lift and underbody. Sounds like a plan.

 

I think the factory lifting points should be fine.

If it helps, here are the points accordingly to the X Service Manual:

 

Yeah, thanx stokEd. I hadn't seen the second page before.

I just finished using the lift to install some Rally Armor flaps. Fitting to the lift isn't quite as easy as that drawing would suggest. What you don't see on the chassis drawing is the jacking points don't stick down lower than other stuff, including fiberglass. In order to fit the X to a lift you have to extend the contact points, and sure enough your picture shows those pads screwed to a higher position. Unfortunately most lifts (my lift) don't have those screw adjustments.

So I used 2x4 blocks above the pads. 12" in front but only 6" in back because there's a little square rib back there that might be fiberglass and you need a short block to stay off it. Took the best part of an hour to figure it out the first time. It'll be easier from now on. Thanx to everyone who responded.

 

hockey puck with a groove cut under the pinches

 

Not thick enough. By the time you slot them you won't have a thick enough spacer. But that may just be my lift as the arms taper slightly down to the pads. They hit the skirts.

 

There are no notches needed in the 2x4's, they work fine as is depending on which rack you use(some you might have to shave some and make the block thinner or lift on the fender to fit block under). Check out eds pic, wood goes under pinch seams.

These are the pinch seams I was referring to. The reason they are telling you to go where the notches are is to ensure you lift where the pinch seam is double thickness.