Big cams little Turbo
Depending on if you have a fmic already I would say 20-40 whp depending on tune and current setup/supporting mods. 
sorry for bumping an old thread, but i'm looking for some good advice.
my car currently has the basic bolt ons, and it made 315whp on cbrd's mustang dyno. i am looking at getting a cbrd fmic, gsc s2's, gsc valve springs and arp head studs. how much power approximately would i gain after a retune?
my car currently has the basic bolt ons, and it made 315whp on cbrd's mustang dyno. i am looking at getting a cbrd fmic, gsc s2's, gsc valve springs and arp head studs. how much power approximately would i gain after a retune?
my mod list is:
ams turboback
ams licp
megan o2
hallman mbc
perrin intake
walbro 255
i'd be pretty happy if i made 350whp on a mustang dyno.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,406
Likes: 78
From: Northwest
Using the normal accepted difference in the dynos (DB and CBRD's Mustang to our Dynojet), that would put you around 355-360 on our dyno on stock cams which is very good. The most I have seen on 92 octane is 400whp on our dyno at 28-29psi so its possible but the normal high average (if that makes sense) is mid 380s. I would think with proper mapping another 25whp should be achievable.
aaron
aaron
now see ive gotta add my 0.02 on this one, first off holy cow i just read through 10 pages, and two feet from a 30" monitor i feel like im in the twilight zone, im kinda in the same boat myself, 03 viii see mods in sig, now i bought and had the hks 272 cams installed before my head was built, iirc only thing still stock in head is valves, springs retainers etc are bc, which ive heard and was told they were good, now my only thing is im considering a kelford 272 or a gscs2 swap to help with more flow for the fp red, now seein these dyno #'s comparison has me thinkin theres anywhere from 20-40 hp left on the table, my issue is if the kelford 272 or gsc s2s will be too much on the valvetrain, almost 20k on the engine, runs 20w50 vr1 oil, rated for 750 hp so i know i can outflow the red, cuz im considering dropping another 2gs on it swap cams, and map rev2 intake mani and milspec tb swap my dejon tool for a gruppe s 3port, my goal is 450 on 91 octane, but im broke tryin to get a job right now so more money into my ride is kinda out the door, bilstein struts damn near killed the wallet haha.. so any reputable tuners in this thread care to chime in and give me your 0.02
thanks
thanks
Actually, the Red is not that small, and the HKS 272's are not holding you back. You wouldn't necessarily need to break the bank to get over 450WHP either.
You could just send your Red into Forced Performance and have it upgraded to Black specs. This mod would just involve a comp wheel swap as the Red and the Black are both configured with the same turbine wheel. This compressor wheel upgrade shouldn't be that expensive. This should net you 30-40 WHP easily, even on 91 octane gasoline.
Or you could keep your Red and the 272's for the time being and just switch from pump 91 gasoline to Ethanol fuel. You would just need to upgrade your car's fuel delivery with a double-pumper and larger injectors as well as a retune.
BLKCarbonEvo, for example, made over 500WHP on a stock-block engine with a Red and HKS 272's on pump/meth(Granted his was a IX, and he had a trick IM, and a custom O2 dump...). But, 450 should be doable.
As wshihdnevo alluded to in post #226 you may benefit from a more efficient FMIC. The XS Engineering unit can be improved upon. Depending on your tune, a better IC core would allow you to run higher boost even on 91 octane gasoline. How much boost are you peaking at now with your current tune on 91?
I'd be willing to bet that you are not running the Red within its peak efficiency range. If you aren't running at least 26-27 PSI on the Red, then you aren't doing anything. Chris Mellon has some high boost/low timing tunes for 91 octane that should allow you to run about 28 PSI with the Red on 91.
You could just send your Red into Forced Performance and have it upgraded to Black specs. This mod would just involve a comp wheel swap as the Red and the Black are both configured with the same turbine wheel. This compressor wheel upgrade shouldn't be that expensive. This should net you 30-40 WHP easily, even on 91 octane gasoline.
Or you could keep your Red and the 272's for the time being and just switch from pump 91 gasoline to Ethanol fuel. You would just need to upgrade your car's fuel delivery with a double-pumper and larger injectors as well as a retune.
BLKCarbonEvo, for example, made over 500WHP on a stock-block engine with a Red and HKS 272's on pump/meth(Granted his was a IX, and he had a trick IM, and a custom O2 dump...). But, 450 should be doable.
As wshihdnevo alluded to in post #226 you may benefit from a more efficient FMIC. The XS Engineering unit can be improved upon. Depending on your tune, a better IC core would allow you to run higher boost even on 91 octane gasoline. How much boost are you peaking at now with your current tune on 91?
I'd be willing to bet that you are not running the Red within its peak efficiency range. If you aren't running at least 26-27 PSI on the Red, then you aren't doing anything. Chris Mellon has some high boost/low timing tunes for 91 octane that should allow you to run about 28 PSI with the Red on 91.
Last edited by sparky; Mar 24, 2011 at 06:58 PM.
thanks for your advice sparky, however I have one of the og reds, the 64mm fp red, i considered the swap to black but i wanna wait till (knock on wood), the red dies. Then a black i thought about swapping too. As to answer your other questions, im considering the e85 route as theres one about 4 miles from my house, but moneys kinda running short right now for the next couple months but i know 880s and a single wally will hold me back, but i considered 1200s and a possible double pumper setup. As for the IC holding me back they did testing and for a 3" core it was one of the best at the time for dropping temp without pressure. im runnin about 26-27 peak and i believe i hold 22-23 redline( dejon tool), but when the car goes back to Tuning Technologies for the last round of perfomance mods, swapping that with a gruppe s 3port for more boost to redline. As far as my numbers bein low, i was on 91 octane, but my IC was heat soaked when it was dyno'd last year. Ambient temps in colton ca inside the dyno room was over 100....and still managed to make 385 on a dynojet, so on a colder day like its been lately, id like to say 400 is possible. But within the next few months should be workin again and makin more money to get the car in tip top shape, just always been one who plans out what they do never shoot from the hip, so wanted to get some advice on here for the next step that way not spendin the same money twice. But as far as XS engineering good IC, customer service sucks since they went out of business haha, so its either deal with the cracked endtank at the weld, take it local to get re welded, or send it out vivid racing out in az, which livin in cali and havin a DD isnt really possible.
What's the average lost of low-end power going from S1 to S2? I'm thinking about upgrading, but I need to get an idea of what I should expect.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,406
Likes: 78
From: Northwest
old thread is old.
It would like this-
200 rpm on an VIII
0 rpm on a IX
It is actually like this-
Zero loss over S1s when you switch to S2s. It doesnt lose anything, the gains are just a little higher up.
It would like this-
200 rpm on an VIII
0 rpm on a IX
It is actually like this-
Zero loss over S1s when you switch to S2s. It doesnt lose anything, the gains are just a little higher up.










