GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Ok everyone as you have probably seen I have finally had the time to actually dig into and figure out how to run Alky/Meth injection safely while using the AEM EMS for communication. PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE THING. If there are any mistakes I will do my best to correct them. My goal for this control is to allow the AEM to only pull fuel and add ign timing if the Alky/Meth pump is working. Otherwise run a normal safe pump gas map. This way if it isn't working you have less of a chance in engine damage. Something is better than nothing. Be aware if you use higher boost you will need to add aditional items for boost control logic noted below.

First I would like to start off buy saying if you are going to attempt to do this please check each step twice and be positive you are doing things right before you continue. If you are not positive find a positive answer before you continue.

Next be aware that I own a 2003 GSR EVO with a disabled IC water sprayer due to a 4" CAI and I use the SMC Progressive system so these instructions are only for the SMC Alky kits. Other systems may have small variations compared to the SMC system but should work very similar. If your cars setup is different you might want to also take some alternate steps to ensure safety. Next please be aware that I am in no way a part of SMC or AEM and that I only use their products for personal use and SMC, AEM or myself can not accept any responsibility for mistakes that happen on your end. This is just an explanation of my experience that I wanted to pass down because I have had several people ask me to help with it.

So here we go.

This is electrical detail of the SMC System coming from the controller.
Red Power 12v
Black Ground
White Led/Sensor power output < 5v
Green Led/Sensor power input < 5v (Grounded when pump doesn't have pressure)


You will want to run a new wire off of the Green wire on the SMC controller over to your ECU and have it ready. Tape it up for later use. This is all you need from the SMC kit. The action of this wire is that it is grounded when the pump has below 40 psi or not spraying. Once the pump comes up the pressure the ground is then pulled away from the connection and power is feed into line and the controller to run the LED lights on the controller. The power feed to the line is about 4.3 +- volts so < 5 volts. I highly recommend that you start the car up and test the voltage in the line by pressing the TEST button on the controller and using an OHM meter before you go any further to make sure you have the correct line. The SMC controllers have changed several times so you want to be sure.

Now unplug your ECU because we need to find a spare input pin for the AEM to accept. I used pin # 53 which is pre setup to the EGT#2 input. This input is used for a 5 volt sensor and it will read 5 volts if you pull it up in your parameters window. You can use any unused 5 volt input for the AEM there are several but my advice is use the ones that are available instead of unhooking something that is in use. Also do not use a common switch or SW number such as Switch #4. Switches can only be used for a ground or nonground connection with no voltage.

Once you locate your input wire, strip the wire and have the ECU input side of it ready to connect but do not connect it yet. For now tape off both sides of the wire you just cut.

Next you need to set up the AEM so it knows how to communicate with this input so plug the ECU back in. Everything should as normal once you connect to the ECU. Once you do this save your map with a backup name using "Save As" then save your map again with a new name using "Save As" again. This way you have a backup cal file to always revert back to if you have problems. Now the map you are working with should be a regular pump gas only map. It should also be very well tuned and very safe to drive daily without exceptions. I don't recommend tuning Alky/Meth without have a good pump gas tune first. Now that you have your pump gas map loaded and renamed with something descriptive we can start to input the settings as if it was hooked up.

The AEM Settings are as follows below.
1. Verify that you NOS Fuel and Spark table is set to zero at all rpm and load points.
2. Pull up your Full List in your Options menu or by pressing Ctrl+o
3. Locate Nitrous Control in the Full List options.
4. Set the options like the list below to make NOS active all the time this way switch #7 can take full control of the activation.
Nitrous Control = ON
Nitrous Output = Injector10 (IC Spray light on the Dash)
Nitrous Switch In = Switch #7 On
NOS Maximum RPM = 7500
NOS Maximum VSS = 255
NOS Minimum RPM = 0
NOS Minimum VSS = 0
NOS Off Above Load = 35.12 psi
NOS Off Below Load = -14.69 psi
NOS Off Below TPS = 0%
NOS On Above Load = -14.69 psi
NOS On Above TPS = 0%

5. Locate the Fuel10 (controls injector 10 for the IC Spray light) list in the Full List options and set them to the following to make it active all the time. It will not be illuminated unless NOS/Switch #7 is activated.
Fuel 10 Cool = 0
Fuel 10 Load = 0 psi
Fuel 10 Speed = 0 rpm
Fuel 10 TP = 0%
Fuel 10 VS = 0


6. Now locate the Switch #7 Analog In item on the Full List Options.
7. Set the options like the list below for alky/meth activation.
Switch #7 Analog In = EGT #2 Voltage (notice this is Pin# 53)
Switch #7 Min RPM = 0
Switch #7 Min TPS = 0 %
Switch #7 On Above = 2.5 volts
Switch #7 Off Above = 0 volts

8. Now you want to set parameters to monitor on your nitrous menu. The additional parameters that I recommend are listed below but don't for get to select the normal parameters that you usually monitor for tuning as well.
EGT #2 voltage
Switch #7
Nitrous
Nitrous Fuel
Nitrous Spark

9. If you use the AEM to control your boost you will need to assign the Boost Swith Input to the Switch #7 ON with the correct target method as well. So boost will not raise if the switch doesn't activate. All normal boost tuning is still needed but you will not be limited to wastegate pressure since you will be running a normal pump gas map.

10. Now everything is set so save your cal and your template so you keep your parameters menu and then turn your car off. Now you can hook the wire from the controller to the input wire in our case to the Pin# 53 wire for the EGT #2 input. Do not do this if you haven't tested the voltage in this wire. After the wire is hooked back up reconnect your laptop to your ECU and turn the key to the on position then connect to the ECU. Once the connection is made select your nitrous menu so you can see your parameters that we setup above. Once you can see them verify that the EGT #2 Voltages is showing < .1 volt, Switch #7 should be showing OFF, Nitrous should be showing OFF, Nitrous Fuel & Spark should be showing zero. Next look at your dash and make sure your green IC sprayer light is off. If everything checks out go to the next step. If things do not check out stop, turn off the car and go back through the steps.

11. Now you can start your car and reconnect back to the ECU while monitoring the nitrous menus/parameters. Once the car is running rev the car to 3500-4000 rpms then press your alky test button for only a second. While doing this look at your parameters and make sure the Switch #7 changes from OFF to ON and at the same time your Nitrous should change from OFF to ON as well. If this happens rev then press it again for only a sec while looking at your dash you should see the IC sprayer light come on once the alky kit is spraying and the Switch #7 and Nitrous are set to ON. So it now seems to work, my recommendations from here is to go for a drive and log these parameters and verify that everything is working as it should before you start to tune your alternate NOS Fuel and NOS Spark maps. Basically when the alky kit kicks on your AEM should see it and run the alternate NOS maps while turning on the IC sprayer light for verification so you don't have to be looking at the controller as much. If the pump doesn't make good pressure it will not display a spray light and it will not kick on the alternate NOS maps and your IC spray light notifying you the system is not working for some reason and being safer.

12. READ READ READ! Please be aware to test the system before tuning the alternate NOS maps. Also when tuning the NOS maps and removing fuel it removes in a percentage not in a Usec rate like the normal fuel map so don't go too far on accident. You will probably end up pulling between 10% and 15% fuel at least I did. NOS Spark works in degrees advance or retard just as the normal ignition map so no trickiness here.


Everyone please enjoy the advantages this gives you. I will try to answer any questions that I can. If I don't know the answers I will tell you.

Just a few of the advantages below.
------------------------------------------------
1. Safer tune becuase your altered fuel and ign map only runs once the kit is spraying so you don't have to tune around a pre-determined turn on point. Less chance if it activating too late on a quick spool like in 1st gear.

2. You can run pump gas boost if it doesn't spray and not just wastegate pressure so it is more liveable.

3. If you hookup a toggle switch to the alky kit you don't have to change maps on the AEM becuase it already does it for you.

Good luck

GTVEVO

theace

nice thanks for the help

racegate

iTrader: (1)

Looks good GTEVO. I have my Talon configured just like that. Thanks for posting the pin outs for the EVO.

Weird how the SMC passes voltage across that switch. The alkycontrol and all other Shurflo based pumps should not have that problem, and the SW input can be used as a GND input with no issues from the pump itself.

I'll post an update to this once I have the AFR toggle working. So that it can prevent clogged nozzles/low flow leak situations as well. Pump failure is prob the most common thing, and some saftey is better than none!!! Great work.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Yes with the AMS kits and most others using one of the SW inputs for a ground switch would work just as well and be eaiser since you wouldn't have to pass the input back into the Options switch like I am doing. Either way like you said it is a easy process to gain some safety once you sit down and look at it. Most people should be able to hook this up in only a few min.

Chris@nolimitmotors

iTrader: (277)

very impressive

NTHECRUX

iTrader: (11)

X2 good work GTVEVO

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Thanks guys. I have been running this for a few days now and probably tested 20+ pulls on it and and can't believe how much more consistant the safety of my tune is simply becuase ign timing and fuel isn't changed until the kit starts spraying with good pressure. And the fact that I can now log the parameters to see what boost level the kit is truly spraying (becuase each gear is a little different) and adjust the turn on and ramp points correctly as needed.

And to top it off the activation of the AEM illuminating the dash IC spray light when the map is active just puts the icing on the cake becuase I have piece of mind without having to look down too far and at night you don't have to look down at all.

All I can say is that if I was somone tuning alky/meth kits on cars with the AEM I would strongly recommend it for the added safety.

FYI - I am letting my tank run dry to test the true safegaurds of the pump pressure switch to see how the car reacts so I will keep everyone updated on it.

russya

iTrader: (-1)

Worked like a charm for me.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

Great, glad to hear it.

tonysevo

Any update on this? I have an AEM and a AMS kit on my car that i installed with a friend and want to do add safeguards to it.

Tony

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

So far no luck with being able to intergrate this into the AMS (Alky Control) kit correctly. We are still working on a solution for it so stay tuned.

tonysevo

Sweet, Thanks .

racegate

iTrader: (1)

The alky control/AMS kit uses a Shurflo pump right? If you are utilizing the pressure switch to actually control the pump itself, you can just use a relay to invert the logic into a ground and feed that into an AEM SW input.

If you bypass the pressure switch, and just run the pump 'full out' (powering the pump motor directly instead of through the switch), then just ground the bottom port of the switch, and run the top port into a SW input onto the AEM. From there you can use similar NOS table settings above, or use the Anti-Lag table to take out fuel on that input.

You should only need 1 input. A SW input into the AEM to do the fuel/timing changes when the pump comes to pressure. Optionally, if you want to bypass the controller, then you need a HS output to activate a relay to switch on the pump. Depends on how you want to config it.

GTVEVO

iTrader: (22)

We are having a hard time finding out "exactly" how the pressure switch works on the alky control unit with the Shurflo pump. Right now it looks like it isn't being used as a pressure switch but just as a flat on switch but we are still trying to determine this just to be positive before we post on how to hook one up correctly. We haven't researched any routes in using an additional relay either right now becuase we want to get every last question answered before we add additional products or remove any functionality to an already well developed kit. We will keep everyone posted with our findings.

racegate

iTrader: (1)

Can you post a wiring diagram? This is the way I've seen it wired:

From bottom of pump motor the black wire is grounded.

From bottom of pump motor the red wire goes into the bottom port of the switch, then the top port of the switch goes out to the controller?

Is that correct? Going from memory here.