Who has tried Series2?
Improved gas mileage with 1v17... Prior to upgrading to 1v17 I was getting about 120-125 miles on a tank of E85 city, or hwy/city. Just drove 80 highway miles on 1/4 tank of E85. Anyone else notice better gas mileage since using 1v17?
Built 2.3L stroker, HKS MIVEC cams, 80mm FP Red, MAP Rev2 intake, FIC 1450cc inj, cat delete, Full Race mani, Mil.Spec 65mm, Spoolinup COP, Speed Density, FP intake with K&N fliter, HKS DLI2, TiAL Alpha Q recirc.
About the time (one week ago) when I upgraded the firmware to 1v17, I've started having a serious oil consumption issue, but I don't think it's related to the EMS. However, I am wondering if the previous bugs from 1v12 and 1v14 could have contributed to the reason for the oil consumption issue. Any thoughts?
Other observations since moving to 1v17. Sometimes at idle (1,100 rpm) the AFR goes to 16.5-17 (did this on 1v14 as well). Other times idle AFRs are normal right about 15. This was not the case with 1v12 which was used for the initial tune. 1v17 starts are a lot better. The idle motor parking issue does seem to be resolved. However, it still want to die unless you give it some initial throttle on start. Requires revving the throttle for the first couple of seconds to prevent engine RPMs dropping too low and killing the engine. Cold start on E85 is 90% first crank... previously, it was on average 2-3 cranking attempts. Now seems more difficult to start after engine is warm.
The 3,000 RPM bucking/AFR fluctuations are 98% better. It drives like a normal car again. I had the cut out issue under heavy throttle around 5,500-6,200 RPMs with early firmware versions. Seems to be fixed with 1v17. Also with previous versions, just after starting in the morning, I had more than normal amount of white exhaust smoke... even after 5 minutes. With 1v17, no more early morning white smoke.
I am a novice with the EMS and hope the experts here can translate the issues noted above. I've made a couple logs (highway driving with a few WOT pulls in 5th and 6th gear). If anyone would like to review and assess these logs, please send me a PM.
Built 2.3L stroker, HKS MIVEC cams, 80mm FP Red, MAP Rev2 intake, FIC 1450cc inj, cat delete, Full Race mani, Mil.Spec 65mm, Spoolinup COP, Speed Density, FP intake with K&N fliter, HKS DLI2, TiAL Alpha Q recirc.
About the time (one week ago) when I upgraded the firmware to 1v17, I've started having a serious oil consumption issue, but I don't think it's related to the EMS. However, I am wondering if the previous bugs from 1v12 and 1v14 could have contributed to the reason for the oil consumption issue. Any thoughts?
Other observations since moving to 1v17. Sometimes at idle (1,100 rpm) the AFR goes to 16.5-17 (did this on 1v14 as well). Other times idle AFRs are normal right about 15. This was not the case with 1v12 which was used for the initial tune. 1v17 starts are a lot better. The idle motor parking issue does seem to be resolved. However, it still want to die unless you give it some initial throttle on start. Requires revving the throttle for the first couple of seconds to prevent engine RPMs dropping too low and killing the engine. Cold start on E85 is 90% first crank... previously, it was on average 2-3 cranking attempts. Now seems more difficult to start after engine is warm.
The 3,000 RPM bucking/AFR fluctuations are 98% better. It drives like a normal car again. I had the cut out issue under heavy throttle around 5,500-6,200 RPMs with early firmware versions. Seems to be fixed with 1v17. Also with previous versions, just after starting in the morning, I had more than normal amount of white exhaust smoke... even after 5 minutes. With 1v17, no more early morning white smoke.
I am a novice with the EMS and hope the experts here can translate the issues noted above. I've made a couple logs (highway driving with a few WOT pulls in 5th and 6th gear). If anyone would like to review and assess these logs, please send me a PM.
Not sure what was the issue... topped of the coolant today since it was on the low level line. However, as noted before, no more white exhaust smoke since updating firmware to 1v17 a week ago. Anyway... I'll continue to monitor the coolant level. Wondering what issue(s) cause an engine to burn both oil and coolant? I know the motor is burning oil, but not sure about coolant. Guessing no white smoke equals no coolant being burnt.
Most recent problem is oil consumption. When I checked the oil today, it had a distinct fuel odor and oil viscosity seems light. The built MAP 2.3L has less than 3,000 miles so I don't think it's worn internals causing the consumption issue.
I am leaning towards a fuel dilution problem... maybe a leaky injector or fuel pump problem.
Fuel Dilution
If unburnt fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile. Both will result in higher oil consumption. Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector, fuel pump problem, and restricted air intake or through excessive idling.
This might not be the correct place to post... but, still wondering if the EMS is "driving" the injectors correctly.
Inputs welcome... I'll repost in a separate tread. Apologize for jacking this thread with this issue.
Most recent problem is oil consumption. When I checked the oil today, it had a distinct fuel odor and oil viscosity seems light. The built MAP 2.3L has less than 3,000 miles so I don't think it's worn internals causing the consumption issue.
I am leaning towards a fuel dilution problem... maybe a leaky injector or fuel pump problem.
Fuel Dilution
If unburnt fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile. Both will result in higher oil consumption. Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector, fuel pump problem, and restricted air intake or through excessive idling.
This might not be the correct place to post... but, still wondering if the EMS is "driving" the injectors correctly.
Inputs welcome... I'll repost in a separate tread. Apologize for jacking this thread with this issue.
i wanna ask all of you since you all have the series 2, if i was to get AEM, at this point is it worth buying the series 2 or just buy a used version 1 and save $1000?
also AEM talked alot about their series 2 was supposed to solve the cold start problem, this doesnt seem to be the case but is it as bad as the series 1?
also AEM talked alot about their series 2 was supposed to solve the cold start problem, this doesnt seem to be the case but is it as bad as the series 1?
i wanna ask all of you since you all have the series 2, if i was to get AEM, at this point is it worth buying the series 2 or just buy a used version 1 and save $1000?
also AEM talked alot about their series 2 was supposed to solve the cold start problem, this doesnt seem to be the case but is it as bad as the series 1?
also AEM talked alot about their series 2 was supposed to solve the cold start problem, this doesnt seem to be the case but is it as bad as the series 1?
No cold start problem with my Series 2... AEM has figured that out. With the latest firmware version solving a lot of known bugs last week, I would say now is the time to go with the Series 2. No experience with the Series 1, but I would buy the Series 2 again if I had to do over again.
but back to my main question about the cold start, you live in Cali? no im talking about the dead middle of winter in the 30s for me atleast, i know nobody right now is going through that but thats a major concern for me, otherwise im steering towards the series 1
i agree they have done alot of updates recently and i should go with the series 2 but this is my DD and im afraid what problems i might run into, i dont even know if my tuner has any experience with the series 2, he is an evo GOD so im sure its nothing to him.
but back to my main question about the cold start, you live in Cali? no im talking about the dead middle of winter in the 30s for me atleast, i know nobody right now is going through that but thats a major concern for me, otherwise im steering towards the series 1
but back to my main question about the cold start, you live in Cali? no im talking about the dead middle of winter in the 30s for me atleast, i know nobody right now is going through that but thats a major concern for me, otherwise im steering towards the series 1
I do live in LA... although it doesn't get down to 30 or below and I've only been on the S2 for a few months, on E85 starts first time when cold. I have a still warm start issue but I'm sure my tuner will make the correct adjustments next week to alleviate that.
With the S2 and "cold" cold starts, think we'll have to wait for the fall/winter to see if anyone has issues with the S2. I would think since it is known that the S1 does have cold start issues, that you'd be looking at the S2. Have you seen any of these reviews or the David Buscher video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUA18cJ0fY0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkR7epzgXMY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkGrq...eature=related
My tuner is a previous AEM engineer, so very confident in my tune.
i wanna ask all of you since you all have the series 2, if i was to get AEM, at this point is it worth buying the series 2 or just buy a used version 1 and save $1000?
also AEM talked alot about their series 2 was supposed to solve the cold start problem, this doesnt seem to be the case but is it as bad as the series 1?
also AEM talked alot about their series 2 was supposed to solve the cold start problem, this doesnt seem to be the case but is it as bad as the series 1?
Most times you wouldn't have any idea that I have an AEM Series 1 in my car due to how smooth it drives. Usually the startup is near instant unless the engine happens to stop at a certain position then it may take 3-4 cranks at worst.
Series 2 the car does start very fast (due to the new batch fire options for the Evo platform) and has a different feel to it. I am having issues that they are actively working on to resolve so fear not I am sure my issues will help them determine strange issues quicker in the future.
Hey guys thanks for the huge help, at this time I truly don't think the series 2 will benefit me that much, since I'm not a tuner I really wouldn't know too much about it. So I decided to go with a series 1. I got a few good offers on it so I'm gonna save my money and upgrade in the future when necessary. I have a lot to do to my car, starting with the roll cage and building the motor. Again I wanted to thank everyone for their help. Ill be sure to post my new numbers when I hit the dyno again, this time it will be with meth, QTP dp and AEM 
wish me luck
wish me luck
I come bearing some great news and many thanks to Scott Armish (SA on AEM Forums) and Edward Liu (Technical Support Representative).
The 3000-3400 cutouts and bucking issue I've been having looks to have been a rather simple fix all along. Originally when I started tuning my car on Series2 and V14 firmware the misfires were a bit aggravating. I looked at the Injection Phasing and noticed on the Evo 8 calibrations and it was a flat line and the Evo 9 and it was somewhat like the Series 1 calibration. This lead me to believe maybe that was the misfires around the 2000+ rpms I was experiencing. I gave it a shot in my calibration but the breakpoints were slightly off which I had overlooked at the time so it wasn’t exactly the same as seen in Evo 9 calibrations. The ramp moved from the 2000 through 2500rpm range to 3200 through 3650rpm range. At the time the misfires didn't change so I didn’t really think more of this table. Previous testing on Series 1 proved that this never seemed to make a real noticeable difference on my car or some other cars I have previously tuned. I am guessing that was the interrupt issue fixed in V17 firmware was the actual 2000 rpm misfire at that time.
Anyway AEM went above and beyond by sending me a brand new Series 2 box to test with to rule out if it was my actual Series 2 unit or something else. They were leaning that it may be the Peak and Hold injector drivers in my unit. I immediately installed it and uploaded my calibration (it came with V17 already) and went for a ride. I was rather surprised when the bucking was still there with the misfires. So this told me it had to be in the calibration or there still is a firmware issue. I supplied an internal log showing what was going on in the new box along with some details to the technician I have been working with during this situation.
Scott contacted me directly last night and flat-lined the Injector Phasing table out again and had me give it a go. To my surprise no bucking. I still had misfires and some AFR issues but the car did not buck. It appears Evo's (in general at least because I tried my box on 3 different cars and all bucked in this area) are very sensitive to the Injection Phasing and the new Peak and Hold drivers vs. Series 1 Saturated setup. We've discussed the factory resistor pack and I am looking to remove it in the near future after the car is running solid again. Scott mentioned the added resistance could add some tuning inconsistencies and my guess is this could also be why Evo’s are so sensitive now.
Back to how the car is running as of this morning. I drove to work today on Series 2 and overall it was actually quite nice. I tried to get the car to buck and it hasn’t at all. I still have a fair amount misfiring so next is working with the fuel map and some Injector Phasing to see if I can eliminate it and go from there. I hope to have another update stating the car runs as good as on Series 1 ASAP. It’s still early but the improvement is already noticeable and the car is actually drivable again.
Again… thank you Scott for contacting me and working/chatting with me after work hours and thank you Edward for the assistance and communication during this situation. I owe you guys a round of beers!
The 3000-3400 cutouts and bucking issue I've been having looks to have been a rather simple fix all along. Originally when I started tuning my car on Series2 and V14 firmware the misfires were a bit aggravating. I looked at the Injection Phasing and noticed on the Evo 8 calibrations and it was a flat line and the Evo 9 and it was somewhat like the Series 1 calibration. This lead me to believe maybe that was the misfires around the 2000+ rpms I was experiencing. I gave it a shot in my calibration but the breakpoints were slightly off which I had overlooked at the time so it wasn’t exactly the same as seen in Evo 9 calibrations. The ramp moved from the 2000 through 2500rpm range to 3200 through 3650rpm range. At the time the misfires didn't change so I didn’t really think more of this table. Previous testing on Series 1 proved that this never seemed to make a real noticeable difference on my car or some other cars I have previously tuned. I am guessing that was the interrupt issue fixed in V17 firmware was the actual 2000 rpm misfire at that time.
Anyway AEM went above and beyond by sending me a brand new Series 2 box to test with to rule out if it was my actual Series 2 unit or something else. They were leaning that it may be the Peak and Hold injector drivers in my unit. I immediately installed it and uploaded my calibration (it came with V17 already) and went for a ride. I was rather surprised when the bucking was still there with the misfires. So this told me it had to be in the calibration or there still is a firmware issue. I supplied an internal log showing what was going on in the new box along with some details to the technician I have been working with during this situation.
Scott contacted me directly last night and flat-lined the Injector Phasing table out again and had me give it a go. To my surprise no bucking. I still had misfires and some AFR issues but the car did not buck. It appears Evo's (in general at least because I tried my box on 3 different cars and all bucked in this area) are very sensitive to the Injection Phasing and the new Peak and Hold drivers vs. Series 1 Saturated setup. We've discussed the factory resistor pack and I am looking to remove it in the near future after the car is running solid again. Scott mentioned the added resistance could add some tuning inconsistencies and my guess is this could also be why Evo’s are so sensitive now.
Back to how the car is running as of this morning. I drove to work today on Series 2 and overall it was actually quite nice. I tried to get the car to buck and it hasn’t at all. I still have a fair amount misfiring so next is working with the fuel map and some Injector Phasing to see if I can eliminate it and go from there. I hope to have another update stating the car runs as good as on Series 1 ASAP. It’s still early but the improvement is already noticeable and the car is actually drivable again.
Again… thank you Scott for contacting me and working/chatting with me after work hours and thank you Edward for the assistance and communication during this situation. I owe you guys a round of beers!
I can say I am quite happy with how well my car is now running. I still have some fine tuning to do and will always since I tune my own car. Hell cars of my build level are never truly done so its a evolving process, but I am quite happy.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: PA
I have been dealing with this piece of junk series2 for 6 months now in my EVO IX MR. The guy who tunes my car either doesn't have a clue or the box is just a pile of junk. He just loaded the v1.19 firmware, was able to fix the cold start issue but the low rpm drive ability just plain stinks. The car bucks and misses at anything below 12% throttle, in-gear deceleration the car pops and sometimes backfires. Throttle tip in response is terrible. I can make the car backfire easily by getting on it, letting up for a split second and then getting on it again.
He is blaming AEM but I don't see anyone else that has such severe issues.
Maybe it's the way my car is setup. I have the AEM 3-port boost solenoid, AEM 3.5 Bar MAP sensor, AEM AIT sensor, Tial 50 MM NON-recirculating BOV, GSC Stage 1 cams, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, stock injectors, stock turbo, Buschur TBE w/Megan O2 housing, Perrin intercooler, TurboXS hard piping, K&N cone filter. Anyone have a similar setup? If I go back to the stock box, I have to put the MAF sensor back and get a recirculating BOV again, needless to say the serial data gauge would have to go as well. Sorry for the rant but I've been patient and just can't stand even driving my car anymore. Does anyone have a similar setup with issues?
He is blaming AEM but I don't see anyone else that has such severe issues.
Maybe it's the way my car is setup. I have the AEM 3-port boost solenoid, AEM 3.5 Bar MAP sensor, AEM AIT sensor, Tial 50 MM NON-recirculating BOV, GSC Stage 1 cams, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, stock injectors, stock turbo, Buschur TBE w/Megan O2 housing, Perrin intercooler, TurboXS hard piping, K&N cone filter. Anyone have a similar setup? If I go back to the stock box, I have to put the MAF sensor back and get a recirculating BOV again, needless to say the serial data gauge would have to go as well. Sorry for the rant but I've been patient and just can't stand even driving my car anymore. Does anyone have a similar setup with issues?
I have the buck/miss issue at lower throttle. Nothing seams to fix it but I've adjusted my maps where it's not that bad and actually tolerable.
If you'd like you can send me your cal and i can look it over for you: tballer2004@Hotmail.com
If you'd like you can send me your cal and i can look it over for you: tballer2004@Hotmail.com