EMS V2 Hard start.
EMS V2 Hard start.
I know this topic is covered in the sticky, but it made no difference.
Precision 6262, 1050 injectors, walbro 255, Denso COPS, JMF manifold, BC 272s.
Car has been tuned by HIS motorsports, but even with the tune Im still having a lot of difficulty with the start, cold start is terrible takes about 5 trys if not more and now my starter drags everytime and I believe Ive burned it up.
Warm start is a little better and sometimes is 2nd or 3rd try.
Would anyone have any ideas, as what I should set in the EMS maybe just a few options to add in, or setting the fuel pressure differently under the hood? Its just a pain in the *** and makes the car look like a terd everytime I go somewhere.
Car did this with the stock ignition and the new COP's So ive ruled that out, no boost leaks, and always fresh gas and plugs gapped a .24.
Thanks!!!!
Precision 6262, 1050 injectors, walbro 255, Denso COPS, JMF manifold, BC 272s.
Car has been tuned by HIS motorsports, but even with the tune Im still having a lot of difficulty with the start, cold start is terrible takes about 5 trys if not more and now my starter drags everytime and I believe Ive burned it up.
Warm start is a little better and sometimes is 2nd or 3rd try.
Would anyone have any ideas, as what I should set in the EMS maybe just a few options to add in, or setting the fuel pressure differently under the hood? Its just a pain in the *** and makes the car look like a terd everytime I go somewhere.
Car did this with the stock ignition and the new COP's So ive ruled that out, no boost leaks, and always fresh gas and plugs gapped a .24.
Thanks!!!!
Last edited by srivera2010; Jun 5, 2013 at 08:04 PM.
Take a look at the option "Crank Inject All" under the Start tab (Tabs --> Start). If it's set ON, there's currently a bug on the Series II that renders the initial crank pulse inactive if that option is set to ON. If that's the case, turn Crank Inject All to OFF.
Then do one of three things:
1) Start by zeroing out the entire Initial Crank Pulse table (leave the Crank Injector Time table alone) and increase the values in small increments (I'd go in steps of 0.5ms or so) until startup improves. Generally this table will be significantly higher at colder temperatures, and may be close to 0 at hot temperatures. Obviously, only adjust this table in areas where startup needs work. For instance, if your hot starts are perfect, leave the table as-is. E85 will tend to need MUCH higher values in this table at temperatures starting below 80F typically, but you'll want to keep the table nice and smooth. Keep in mind that, especially on cold starts, you really only get ONE chance at this per day. For instance, if you go to start the car and it doesn't start as well as you'd like, leave the setting as-is until the engine is up and running. At that point, make your change to the table at that particular temperature, but don't bother checking for improvement until the next day (or when the car's been sitting for at least 6+ hours). If you don't do this, you'll end up chasing your tail and not getting anywhere.
2) Try the current values in the table as-is, which will now actually work, since we disabled the Crank Inject All option. Adjust as necessary.
3) Take it back to the tuner. Inform them of the bug explained above, and have them fix it.
Beau
Then do one of three things:
1) Start by zeroing out the entire Initial Crank Pulse table (leave the Crank Injector Time table alone) and increase the values in small increments (I'd go in steps of 0.5ms or so) until startup improves. Generally this table will be significantly higher at colder temperatures, and may be close to 0 at hot temperatures. Obviously, only adjust this table in areas where startup needs work. For instance, if your hot starts are perfect, leave the table as-is. E85 will tend to need MUCH higher values in this table at temperatures starting below 80F typically, but you'll want to keep the table nice and smooth. Keep in mind that, especially on cold starts, you really only get ONE chance at this per day. For instance, if you go to start the car and it doesn't start as well as you'd like, leave the setting as-is until the engine is up and running. At that point, make your change to the table at that particular temperature, but don't bother checking for improvement until the next day (or when the car's been sitting for at least 6+ hours). If you don't do this, you'll end up chasing your tail and not getting anywhere.
2) Try the current values in the table as-is, which will now actually work, since we disabled the Crank Inject All option. Adjust as necessary.
3) Take it back to the tuner. Inform them of the bug explained above, and have them fix it.

Beau
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