Eliminate wheel hop & tighten up your suspension
#18
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Work - New York, Alaska, Mexico or the Caribbean. -Home - Tx Hill Country
Posts: 1,858
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JustDSM
Installed, but have yet to drive it. I just started the car up after the "overhaul". I'll have it on the road tomorrow.
#19
Evolved Member
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cheyenne, WY
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry guys... I tore back into the car for an engine management update and never did get it back on the road.
I did a complete overhaul on the car (took me a week straight to install everything) and I've got a few bugs to iron out before I can push the car. I promise to update as soon as I can.
I did a complete overhaul on the car (took me a week straight to install everything) and I've got a few bugs to iron out before I can push the car. I promise to update as soon as I can.
#21
Evolving Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Chi town area
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also have a Cusco Rear Sway bar so take this for what it's worth.
The rear end tightens up a little bit, but it does not feel very harsh going over bumps, and the ride actually feels a little smoother inside the car.
Turn in also feels a little different, but this can also be the sway bay.
The car also feels smoother under hard acceleration.
My first AutoX event for 2005 is this weekend and I can't wait to see how things improve w/ the bushings.
The rear end tightens up a little bit, but it does not feel very harsh going over bumps, and the ride actually feels a little smoother inside the car.
Turn in also feels a little different, but this can also be the sway bay.
The car also feels smoother under hard acceleration.
My first AutoX event for 2005 is this weekend and I can't wait to see how things improve w/ the bushings.
#22
I am trying to install my bushings now, but I can't get the metal sleeves from the stock rubber bushings out. I have tried beating them out and it's just not working. Now I have One side completely apart with essentially no bushing just the sleeve from the stock one. Someone please tell how to get the the stock bushing out. My car is down until I figure out how to get the metal sleeve out so I can put in the new delrin bushings.
#25
I have been driving with the new bushings for a couple days now so here are some of my first impressions.
Install:
The easiest thing to do is have someone with a hydrolic press to press the oem bushings out. However, if your too tight for that then here is how I got mine out. Using a dremel with a bit designed to cut plastic I cut the rubber from the bushing out and I pulled out the center sleeve of the bushing. Next I put a bit in designed to cut steel, and I cut through the outside sleeve in 2 spots. This will relieve the pressure holding the sleeve in. Last I used 2 sockets, one the same outside diameter as the sleeve and one big enough the sleeve would go inside of. I put one socket on one side of the sleeve and of couse put the other socket on the opposite side. Then I put a 7" bolt through the center of it all and a nut on the other side. You will need washers on both sides too. I then tightened the nut and bolt until the sleeve slid about half of the way out. This was as far as the sleeve would go into the big socket. I just used a hammer and flat head screwdriver to knock the sleeve the rest of the way out. From there everything was pretty easy. The new bushings just slid in with some very light tapping using a hammer.
Are they worth the money and effort?
I sure think so. There seems to be no adverse affects from putting them on. No sqeaking or harsh ride. The car feels tighter. It also feels like there is less body roll when cornering. So if you have been considering buying some then I would say it's a great product.
Install:
The easiest thing to do is have someone with a hydrolic press to press the oem bushings out. However, if your too tight for that then here is how I got mine out. Using a dremel with a bit designed to cut plastic I cut the rubber from the bushing out and I pulled out the center sleeve of the bushing. Next I put a bit in designed to cut steel, and I cut through the outside sleeve in 2 spots. This will relieve the pressure holding the sleeve in. Last I used 2 sockets, one the same outside diameter as the sleeve and one big enough the sleeve would go inside of. I put one socket on one side of the sleeve and of couse put the other socket on the opposite side. Then I put a 7" bolt through the center of it all and a nut on the other side. You will need washers on both sides too. I then tightened the nut and bolt until the sleeve slid about half of the way out. This was as far as the sleeve would go into the big socket. I just used a hammer and flat head screwdriver to knock the sleeve the rest of the way out. From there everything was pretty easy. The new bushings just slid in with some very light tapping using a hammer.
Are they worth the money and effort?
I sure think so. There seems to be no adverse affects from putting them on. No sqeaking or harsh ride. The car feels tighter. It also feels like there is less body roll when cornering. So if you have been considering buying some then I would say it's a great product.
#27
Evolving Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Chicago 'burbs
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Resurrecting this thread - I figured I would post my installation story for these things - they can be a real PITA. I got these things as some kind of insurance against wheel hop during auto-x launches and corner exits - let's hope they work as advertised!
First of all, if you have an older car (meaning the ball joint bolt will be more stubborn the more it has rusted in place against the knuckle), you will be better off probably having AMS do it for you, they have the right tools for the job. If you want to do it yourself... my advice:
Don't even try it without taking the wheel off.
Use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts and bolts. The 19mm bushing bolt will require a lot of force so the bigger the bar the better.
Freeing the ball joint from the knuckle:
This was the biggest pain: Back the nut about 1/4 way up the thread, and liberally apply a penetrating lube to the bolt and around the bottom. Let it soak a LONG time
Keep the socket over the nut and put on an extension so that you can tap the top of it with a hammer from inside the fender well. You may have to bang it really hard, as I did, so I recommend supporting the knuckle with a piece of wood that you tap in perpendicular to the ground. You don't want to be pounding down on your dampers. After awhile and some swearing, it will come off. Then you can remove the nut the rest of the way. Don't try and tap out the knuckle bolt without the nut on there - you'll kill the threads, and that ball joint is probably expensive. I had a close call, lets leave it at that ;-)
I used the suggested technique above and used a carbide dremel bit to carefully burrow through the metal sleeve and the bushing popped right out. Be careful not to dig into the trailing arm.
New bushing popped right in with some coaxing from a hammer and wood blocks.
Reassembly is easy - get the torque specs right - 60 lb ft on teh ball joint nut, 109 lb ft (have fun!) on the bushing bolt. You may need to press up on the trailing arm with a piece of wood to be able to tighten the ball joint nut - otherwise the bolt will just turn itself in the ball and the nut won't tighten.
Anyway, hope my explaination will same someone some time. I've used this board a lot for things like this, so I figured i should give back!
Test drive impressions - can't really tell too much difference in street driving. auto-x this weekend, I'll write if there's anything noticeable or unusual.
First of all, if you have an older car (meaning the ball joint bolt will be more stubborn the more it has rusted in place against the knuckle), you will be better off probably having AMS do it for you, they have the right tools for the job. If you want to do it yourself... my advice:
Don't even try it without taking the wheel off.
Use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts and bolts. The 19mm bushing bolt will require a lot of force so the bigger the bar the better.
Freeing the ball joint from the knuckle:
This was the biggest pain: Back the nut about 1/4 way up the thread, and liberally apply a penetrating lube to the bolt and around the bottom. Let it soak a LONG time
Keep the socket over the nut and put on an extension so that you can tap the top of it with a hammer from inside the fender well. You may have to bang it really hard, as I did, so I recommend supporting the knuckle with a piece of wood that you tap in perpendicular to the ground. You don't want to be pounding down on your dampers. After awhile and some swearing, it will come off. Then you can remove the nut the rest of the way. Don't try and tap out the knuckle bolt without the nut on there - you'll kill the threads, and that ball joint is probably expensive. I had a close call, lets leave it at that ;-)
I used the suggested technique above and used a carbide dremel bit to carefully burrow through the metal sleeve and the bushing popped right out. Be careful not to dig into the trailing arm.
New bushing popped right in with some coaxing from a hammer and wood blocks.
Reassembly is easy - get the torque specs right - 60 lb ft on teh ball joint nut, 109 lb ft (have fun!) on the bushing bolt. You may need to press up on the trailing arm with a piece of wood to be able to tighten the ball joint nut - otherwise the bolt will just turn itself in the ball and the nut won't tighten.
Anyway, hope my explaination will same someone some time. I've used this board a lot for things like this, so I figured i should give back!
Test drive impressions - can't really tell too much difference in street driving. auto-x this weekend, I'll write if there's anything noticeable or unusual.
#29
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: illinois
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my cousin put mine in. i recommend going to ams to install them but if you out of towner guys have any question pm me. my cousin made a jig for his press which is easier said than done. but it took him less than an hour after he made it. thanks.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shaun@AWDMotorsports
EvoX 'For Sale' External Engine / Power
197
Jun 14, 2016 10:26 AM
aggieEVO
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension
4
Sep 21, 2015 07:03 AM
201Motorsports
Evo 'For Sale' Suspension / Brakes / Handling
1
Sep 18, 2009 12:11 PM
Speed Element
Evo Vendor 'Group Buy / Specials' Classifieds
1
Mar 10, 2008 11:42 AM
awd, car, eliminate, eliminte, evo, gts, hop, lancer, recomended, reduce, suspension, tighten, tightening, viii, wheel