Hey guys, I emailed AMS and got some answers on a setup i wanted to get. I live in the area so I would rather just buy from AMS instead of doing mail-in flashes. This is the kit I made, modelled off a few others.

AMS Turboback Exhaust w/ testpipe
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
AMS MBC @ 21-22psi
Autometer Boost Guage w/ Carbon Fiber Cup
Forge RS DV
In-House Flash

When I did the math it came out to about 2250 something with the 320 estimated labor costs. What does everyone think of this setup? It is basically the necessary essentials and based off the Buschur/Warrtalon setup.

 

..not all at once now. might clog the server.

 

Anyone at all from AMS have a opinion on this setup?

 

Im not from AMS but that kit looks fine to me. Its got all of the essentials and nothing that is a waste of money. And imo what you picked is better than the warrtalon/buschur package...but thats just me

 

Looks pretty good. The only change I'd make is to go with a different brand boost gauge. Autometer isn't all that accurate, IIRC. Stewart Warner or Defi would be my choice. If you have the extra cash, I would also seriously consider doing cams and cam gears at the same time.

l8r)

 

The Warrtalon/Buschur package with AL's flashes are alot better because they have been tested and pruven to work and make excellent number!

and also compare price vs. price the Warrtalon/Buschur package is alot better than that price u mentioned.

 

we understand they made excellent numbers, this is practically a replica and it has ALL the same parts just different brands focused on AMS. The in-house flash will hopefully produce similar numbers plus I will get a dyno and flash to perfectly fit my application. The price I mentioned was with estimated $320 (their estimate) for labor. So altogether what I mentioned with the AMS brands and AMS In-House dyno flash would be around $1891(est.). (EDIT: the original price with labor was $2211(est.))

Basically the parts cost a extra 200-300 dollars but you get AMS parts instead with a AMS tune. I'd rather have the in-house flash, seeing I'm a bit skeptical on the other flashs.

Ludikraut -- That is a good idea, might aswell add cams while I'm saving up the money, they arent that expensive and will definately be worth the gains and save me from reflashing, thanks.

 

Pricing isn't all that different. The difference is

ohthree: 2250 -320 labor = 1930
warrtalon: 1575

For the extra $355 you get a custom flash by AMS, which includes dyno time. WELL worth the $$$, IMO. Not to mention that ohthree also gets support from a local vendor (IMO the most reputable Evo shop around), which is a good thing to have when you start modding.

l8r)

 

Hah, LOL, you beat me to it ohthree.

l8r)

 

If you're not planning on running over 24-25 psi I recommend keeping the stock BOV or a JDM MR BOV. I have a Forge RS because I run 27-30 psi, but the stock design has virtually no flutter due to an internal feature that equalizes pressure (according to Forge).

Even the Forge RS will flutter at partial throttle.

 

+1. I was a huge proponent of Autometer, despite the fact that they were frequently bashed here. Now 2 of my Autometer ultralight gauges have stopped working, Oil Temp and Pressure. I'm definitely not replacing them with more Autometer

 

I feel it would be safer to buy the Forge RS since it is relatively safe and inexpensive and i dont feel like buying duplicates. Anyway, anyone have a opinion on what cams I should get?

I was thinking about HKS 272 or Jun 272? Should I get cam gears aswell?

 

Actually I was thinkg about holding off on that extra and then install it and reflash it with a LICP..



EDIT: I hear the LICP is easy to install so I might get it with cams.

EDIT: Also the Stewart Warner guages are the same price.

 

Jun cams will require an upgraded valve train. Stick with the HKS 272. I had basically the same setup that you are going to have (HKS 272, exhaust, tuning) and I was pretty happy with it. Personally I would get adjustable cam gears (fidanza) to go with the cams and have AMS set them to -4/-1. I've never been a big fan of a stalling car, and with those settings my Evo never stalled (not even with AC and HIDs on). Not something I can claim of my current setup.

EDIT: actually with Martin custom flashing the car you can probably get away with more aggressive cam settings. He shouldn't have a problem dialing in the idle (just make sure you test it with AC and HIDs on). He should have plenty of practice by now, having worked on my car these past few weeks... LOL.

l8r)

 

sorry, I didnt reply to the post becuase I was the one you were talking to via email. the new autometer line actually isnt that bad. ITs a better mechanism and they are all LED lit including the needle. Im a big fan of the gauge.

Its a nice setup. I would deffinetly recomend it

Eric