AMS 50 Trim step-by-step install pics....
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From: New York City
Originally Posted by 9sec240
You are correct, push Lock hose attaches to the fittings very tight. You can not pull the hose off the fitting....... but you can actually twist the hose on the fitting. It would probably be easiest if you unscrewed the end of the hose from the oil pan. Grab the fitting with one hand and the hose with your other hand and twist it to get the fitting lined up better. Keep adjusting it till the fitting lines up with the oil pan perfectly and the hose has a smooth kink free run at the pan... then reattach it to the oil pan.
The factory pinch clamps are designed for speed of installation and for a very specific size hose. They do provide a decent seal but are not the best solution. Putting the provided worm clamps on will ensure a good seal with our water lines.
As long as no teflon tape made it into the oiling system, you should be fine. You have to be careful with tape and paste on fittings that are open to the oil and fuel system. If your not carefull to keep the paste or tape only on the threads, pieces or chunks of teflon can break loose and plug up something a small oil galley or fuel injector.
The factory pinch clamps are designed for speed of installation and for a very specific size hose. They do provide a decent seal but are not the best solution. Putting the provided worm clamps on will ensure a good seal with our water lines.
As long as no teflon tape made it into the oiling system, you should be fine. You have to be careful with tape and paste on fittings that are open to the oil and fuel system. If your not carefull to keep the paste or tape only on the threads, pieces or chunks of teflon can break loose and plug up something a small oil galley or fuel injector.
I have a question about the lower tie bars, the rear one fit fine but the front one wont fit w/o longer bolts and lots of washers...what do you suggest???
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Blue Evo 8
I have a question about the lower tie bars, the rear one fit fine but the front one wont fit w/o longer bolts and lots of washers...what do you suggest???
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Originally Posted by 9sec240
You want a decent amount of clearance between the lower tie bars and the down pipe. What I do is actually bend the tie bars for about 1/2" clearance. Hold up the tie bar and see where it might or does contact the down pipe and make a mark. For the rear tie bar I put it in a vice about 1/2" away from the mark and then give it a good tug. For the front bar, I do the same but also bend the bar in the opposit direction just to the right of the portion that bolts to the crossmember. It works out very well. I will try to take a picture of the next one I do.
yes please do, I cant imagine how I'm gonna bend the bar and then bolt it back up again.
Another problem I encountered is is that I sprung a leak from my radiator by the drain plug on the passenger side of the car... I made sure the bolt was real tight but still it drips coolant. In addition I see that it might be leaking down by the turbo outlet area as well because I see dried liquid spots on the LICP by the turbo outlet. I checked the coolant inlet and outlet lines but couldnt see anything clear. I sure used the clamps that were supplied with the turbo kit down by the connection to the turbo.
I also tried getting in there to uncrimp my oil return line but the LICP and DP get in the way.... I'm thinking I may have to remove those parts again and try to twist the blue line.
Is it ok for me to twist the line w/o disconnecting the end that connects to the oil pan?
secondly will any harm be done if I left the oil return line the way it sits now?
Last edited by Blue Evo 8; Aug 1, 2006 at 06:29 PM.
I have one question... or perhaps two.
I am about to put in a new stock 05 turbo into my 03.
Do you think that I would need to drain the oil and coolant or would I be able to just disconnect them then reattach on the new turbo?
How much oil/coolant comes out of the stock lines when you disconnect them?
Thanks.
I am about to put in a new stock 05 turbo into my 03.
Do you think that I would need to drain the oil and coolant or would I be able to just disconnect them then reattach on the new turbo?
How much oil/coolant comes out of the stock lines when you disconnect them?
Thanks.
Last edited by Ninj0x; Aug 2, 2006 at 11:26 PM.
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by Ninj0x
I have one question... or perhaps two.
I am about to put in a new stock 05 turbo into my 03.
Do you think that I would need to drain the oil and coolant or would I be able to just disconnect them then reattach on the new turbo?
How much oil/coolant comes out of the stock lines when you disconnect them?
Thanks.
I am about to put in a new stock 05 turbo into my 03.
Do you think that I would need to drain the oil and coolant or would I be able to just disconnect them then reattach on the new turbo?
How much oil/coolant comes out of the stock lines when you disconnect them?
Thanks.
If your going to try to do the turbo swap with the radiator still in place, coolant will come out of the lines when you disconnect them from the ports on the motor. You can pull the lines and quickly cap them off with medium sized vacuum caps or loop one of the soft lines. I would suggest taking the radiator out so you have more room to work.
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From: New York City
Originally Posted by 9sec240
Oil will drip out of the feed port in the head for some time. Its not a lot and can be cleaned up with some brake clean. Depending on the position of your car on jack stands or a lift, oil may come out when you disconnect the return line from the oil pan.
If your going to try to do the turbo swap with the radiator still in place, coolant will come out of the lines when you disconnect them from the ports on the motor. You can pull the lines and quickly cap them off with medium sized vacuum caps or loop one of the soft lines. I would suggest taking the radiator out so you have more room to work.
If your going to try to do the turbo swap with the radiator still in place, coolant will come out of the lines when you disconnect them from the ports on the motor. You can pull the lines and quickly cap them off with medium sized vacuum caps or loop one of the soft lines. I would suggest taking the radiator out so you have more room to work.
By the way the leaking stopped from my radiator..... it seems as though I didnt tighten the drain plug tight enough....
so all I have to do now is straighten out the oil return line a bit and figure out how to mount the front lower arm bar....
got any pics?
Originally Posted by Ninj0x
I have one question... or perhaps two.
I am about to put in a new stock 05 turbo into my 03.
Do you think that I would need to drain the oil and coolant or would I be able to just disconnect them then reattach on the new turbo?
How much oil/coolant comes out of the stock lines when you disconnect them?
Thanks.
I am about to put in a new stock 05 turbo into my 03.
Do you think that I would need to drain the oil and coolant or would I be able to just disconnect them then reattach on the new turbo?
How much oil/coolant comes out of the stock lines when you disconnect them?
Thanks.
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From: New York City
Originally Posted by Soon2BEVO
Charlie when are you getting tuned? I want a ride ASAP haha
I have been driving around town with my old AEM tune, but I used my MBC and turned the knob all the way down so I wont hit boost....
even off boost low end feels good
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From: New York City
Originally Posted by fitch
You have to disconnect the two coolant lines and the two oil lines.... they will drip.... so draining the coolant and oil for the new turbo is a must... And almost forgot.... Maybe draining the radiator and removing it won't hurt.... that way you don't hit or ruin the radiator....
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From: New York City
Originally Posted by High_PSI
can't wait to see the numbers and maybe some WOT Pull Vids 
You bet the dyno charts will go up in a week or so plus some WOT highway pulls
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From: Chicagoland
How to make your lower tie bars fit
Hold your tie bar up and see where it hits the down pipe. Notice how I have marked the bar by smudging the dirt. This will be my referance point for bending it.
Here I have the tie bar in the vice with the mark just slightly above the jaws. It takes some effort but give it a good yank and it will bend.
Here I have the tie bar in the vice near the center tab. I am bending it in the opposit direction as the first bend to get it to bolt in place.
In this picture you can see the slight bend in both the lower tie bars allowing them to clear the down pipe. There is a good half inch of clearance.
I hope this helps.
Hold your tie bar up and see where it hits the down pipe. Notice how I have marked the bar by smudging the dirt. This will be my referance point for bending it.
Here I have the tie bar in the vice with the mark just slightly above the jaws. It takes some effort but give it a good yank and it will bend.
Here I have the tie bar in the vice near the center tab. I am bending it in the opposit direction as the first bend to get it to bolt in place.
In this picture you can see the slight bend in both the lower tie bars allowing them to clear the down pipe. There is a good half inch of clearance.
I hope this helps.