I went to the track tonight, here is my best run. Im rather dissapointed-

R/T- .610
60'- 1.908
1/4- 13.399
MPH- 101.82

Here are my mods-

APS BOV
Buschur catless TBE
Walbro 255
Reflash
MBC @ 20 psi
10.8 AFR

It was kind of cool, probably low 80's, and raining also, I'm not sure if the dampness effected my times or not.

I launched at around 4700 on that run and feathered the clutch.

I atribute my poor time to the crappy 60 foot, and if I get it back down into the 1.7's it should be good for a 12.99.

What do you think?

 

I love how the time is 13.399, but it's a 13.3, not a 13.4 .

Anyway, work on your launch. Shaving a tenth on your 60' time usually means 2-3 tenths off your ET. 1.7xx's should be no problem with a little practice, which would put you in the 12's more than likely.

 

How do people usually achieve a 1.7xx?

 

Actually, that's good driving, but a bad launch. Also, that et/mph is indicative of a stock Evo. Your power is WAY down for the mods you have, but on the bright side, low 80s is not cool at all, and humidity really hurts your power production. How did you run while it was raining? That's kinda weird. 10.8 is also really rich, so you were not running optimally and were probably knocking a lot.

To achieve a 1.7x, you need to launch. Anything below 5k rpm on the launch I don't consider a launch. In order to not bog at such a low rpm, it means you have to slip the hell out of the clutch and start moving a ways before letting out the clutch completely. Are you on the stock clutch? If so, I would just not fret over the 60' and be happy with 1.8s, but you'll need to launch a little higher than 4700. I run high 1.7s on a really good launch (stock clutch), but I'm usually in the low-to-mid 1.8s. Don't worry so much about your ET, but focus more on your MPH, which is the indicator of power production. At ~102mph, you are making stock 03-04 Evo power (~230whp) basically.

I know that your mods are good for an extra 50-70whp over stock, so I attribute the low mph to temp, humidity, and low AFR (this is a function of temp and humidity, also). With a better 60', you will drop your ET, but you won't gain more than a few mph at most.

 

I ran OK I suppose, I didn't feel any traction loss.

Why do you say I was knocking alot? I thought a rich AFR kept detonation down?

My clutch is aftermarket, but Im not sure which, I bought the car used, probably an ACT single plate though.

I thought about just increasing my boost until I got to around 11.3 but then I was worried about not knowing how much I was knocking, so I decided not to.

 

I ran last night aslo.. had a really crappy 60' (3rd time trying to launch on this clutch) 2.34 sec and ran a 13.4@106.4 that was on 20lbs. Then it rained ... Right now im running 26lbs so well see . My best 60 was a 1.96 Missed 1-2 twice during the same run and did 13.7@104...

 

For each tenth of a second off the 60' thatll equal 2 tenths of a sec of the e.t. at the end.. so a 2.3 60' with a 13.4 would be a 1.7 60 with a 12.2

 

i think my car is broke then

 

why do you say that?

 

Hrm, it doesn't work quite like that. The 60' is the most important part of the 1/4-mile, yes, but you can't just calculate it like that. The stat that you look at is mph. You're obviously making good power to get 106mph with such a horrible 60', but to get a 12.2 on a 1.7x 60', you'd need to gain 6-8mph. This may be possible, but there's a lot more to it than extrapolating 60' times. You just need to learn how to launch, and then get that shifting down. I have no doubt your car can run well into the 12s, but it might take a while to get 12.2s.

 

That's the 2nd time tonight I've seen someone say that they thought knock came from running lean. You knock when you are running RICH, and you DETONATE when running too lean. I'm not saying you CAN'T knock in lean conditions, but it's generally caused by running too rich. It's something like this...

0-3 counts of knock - ECU advances timing (more power)
4-7 counts of knock - ECU maintains timing (no change)
8+ counts of knock - ECU retards timing (less power)

Knock itself isn't bad...it's normal. Excessive knock causes timing to be pulled, which reduces power. How do you know what your AFR is anyway? Do you have a wideband logging device? You shouldn't try to tune your AFR by adjusting boost...it should be done with a tuning device, but I know you aren't able to do that right now with just a flash.

 

I do have a wideband.

I thought knock was just a general term for detonation...

 

Oh, no way. I can't explain it scientifically, but knock is just a normal part of any engine. The knock sensor tells the ECU if it needs to pull timing and reduce power in certain conditions. Detonation is when you are running lean and about to melt a piston. When you are running dangerously lean, you run faster than ever with increased timing until BOOM, the engine goes. When you are running very rich, you just stink up the place, have a rough idle, make less power, get lower gas mileage, and knock all over the place.

 

03BREvo8 why is your EVO trapping so low, I mean you should be trapping at around 112-114MPH with your mods, actually you should trap even higher. Your times can be improved, but your trap speed scares me.

 

Disappointing indeed. Get an STI.