Went to Mason Dixon (Hagerstown, MD) on Friday 7/7/2006. It was my first time at the track since I swapped the stock clutch for the RRE "No Name" clutch and RRE lightweight flywheel this March. Third time at the track ever.

I thought the biggest thing to overcome was launching but I found out it was my shifting My 60-foots were 1.856, 1.795, 1.759. Here is a summary and video of each run:

Run #1:
Weather: about 81, low humidity, and sunny
60-foot: 1.856 (hooked right up)
1/8: 8.35 @ 83.68
1/4: 13.03 @ 105.45
Notes: Short-shifted 1st (6100) & probably slow shifting otherwise. Other shifts were at about 7000.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcP2o9Dvh-8

Run #2:
Weather: about 75, low humidity, and sun going down a little
60-foot: 1.795 (wheel hop)
1/8: 8.46 @ 81.29
1/4: 13.23 @ 105.72
Notes: Missed third twice, short-shifted 1st (6200). Other shifts were at about 6900.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSKSyaeNGL0

Run #3:
Weather: about 70, low humidity, sun had set
60-foot: 1.759 (wheel spin)
1/8: 8.37 @ 80.87
1/4: 13.09 @ 104.65
Notes: Babied the 2-3 so not to miss again, short-shifted 1st (6200). Other shifts were at about 7000.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNRloJGtGDA

I wanted 12's really bad, but was still pretty happy overall. I think I know where I need to improve - short-shifting 1st, raise my other shifts a couple 100 rpm, shifting speed in general.

Any other feedback would be appreciated.

Mods on these runs are BR Stage 2, Fighter's Garage LICP, RRE clutch/flywheel. 93 octane & MBC at about 19.5 psi.

 

I learned a while ago that 19.5 psi isnt even stock. Turn that up...and times will be better, you should be faster but decent 60'

 

Yeah, why run lower than stock boost on your 05 even after being modded and tuned? For reference, I ran 13.17@103.89 bone stock in my 05 at that very track. I later ran 12.22@111 with a cat-back/mbc/safc on race gas at the same track a few months later. If you are just saying that your boost was 19.5psi on the track, then you're really running 21psi or so, but if your spike in 3rd gear is only 19.5, then you need to crank it up.

 

yeah, turn up the boost to 21-22lbs. Lower then stock is no good.

 

No, 19.5 is about what it settles to. I will see a brief spike in 3rd to about 20.5-21 before settling around 5500 rpm.

Any other advice? By the way, these runs are with the 2-step set at 6000 rpms and the restrictor pill still in place.

 

Well, then you shouldn't say you run 19.5psi. It doesn't matter where it settles - everyone's boost tapers. When we refer to the boost we run, it's the highest spike (in 3rd) - that is where your boost is set. 21psi is fine.

You can launch much better especially on the 6k launch control, but you should remove the clutch restrictor. Also, the RRE X clutch is not good at all, unfortunately, so don't expect it to perform well or last very long. Do some searching on here and you'll see why.

Regardless of any of that, though, since you're only trapping 105mph, there's not much you can do. It should be trapping closer to 110 with those mods, so unless you find that mph, you're not going to do much better than very high 12s even on a good launch. I recommend doing a boost leak test.

 

Hmm.. I never knew that to be honest. Ok, Im running 20.5 then.

Ive thought about it a little but I think Ill leave it in. I dont go to the track that much anyway and the evo is my daily driver. Id rather burn a clutch a little than destroy anything else, especially since the clutch wasnt my best choice anyway. I did a little more research AFTER buying than I did BEFORE. I went for the stock look for warranty purposes. 2-3 trips to the track per season is about all for me anyway.

Im a little concerned about trap speed myself. I really expected to see 107s anyway. How much of that is because of poor shifting like I described? I need to look into doing a boost leak test, especially since I changed all the IC piping this Spring. 90% of my clamps are t-bolts, but there are still a couple stock worm clamps in the mix.

 

Well, don't make the mistake of thinking that having t-bolts means no leaks. I just did boost leak tests on 3 cars this weekend before they got their Dynoflashes, and one had t-clamps everywhere, but he was the one with the most leaks. He had no idea until I put in the compressed air, and there were so many noises that we couldn't figure out where to start. The biggest leak was right under a t-clamp that was just not attached properly. We fixed that one completely, but then there were several more, haha.

You should definitely check for leaks, but yes, slow shifting kills both ET and MPH. It's critical to say in the powerzone in each gear, which requires keeping the rpms in the right area and keeping the turbo spooled between shifts.

 

Im gonna look into doing a leak test. Ive never done one before but it doesnt look that hard. I need to get my shifting in order and see where that leaves me too. I know that short-shifting 1-2 and a slow 2-3 has to cost me some. My 3-4 has always been pretty good. By the way, I never power-shift but just try to give it a quick slap, off the throttle completely. Ive heard the rear-end thud in every shift except 4-5 before It has improved a bit.. with stage 1 only, most of my runs where around 103 with a couple even in the 101 range 105-106 is an improvement so far for sure.

 

http://vfaq.com/mods/ictester.html.

 

Link is broken but thanks anyway. I saw a how-to somewhere else doing a search earlier.

 

You REALLY shouldn't short shift first. Who told you to do so???

Since first gear is so short you take it ALL THE WAY UP TO 7600. It takes no time at all to go from 6100>7600 in first. It gets your speed up and sets you up for second gear.

Seriously, quit short shifting.

 

I completely disagree. There is a big drop-off in power in 1st gear after 6500. It is the only gear I shift before 7000rpm, because there is absolutely NOTHING up at 7600, especially after a hard launch. Also, shifting that high puts you too far into 2nd instead of being down in the meat of the powerband. 6100-7600 in 1st takes a lot longer than it should.

 

No one told me to and I know it's wrong, it's a mistake I just keep making. It seems like I get a good launch off and I must get excited and think "time to shift" As soon as I hit the clutch my eyes go to the tach and see 6100 or so. Too late then.

Like I said, Ive been to the track 3 times and had a total of 11 runs. Ill be the first to admit Im prone to novice mistakes, especially ones caused by being excited or nervous.

 

i HAVE THE RRE CLUTCH AND STOCK FLYWHEEL. ITS BEEN IN FOR ALOMOST 15K NOW AND HAS SEEN SEVERAL DRAG LAUNCHES AND ROAD COURSE ABUSE. IT STILL HOLDS FINE AT MY POWER LEVEL (LOW 300) iVE PULL MANY 1.70 AND A 1.68 60S AT MD DRAGWAY. AND THATS STILL WITH THE OPEN FRONT DIFF. AND OVER 30 PSI OF TIRE PRESSURE ASWELL. THATS WITH THE DYNOFLASH 2STEP. THE RRE CLUTCH IS JUST AN UNPAINTED ACT BASICALLY.