Good luck man and screw all the haters

 

man get rid of the POS stock bov, it will leak above 20 psi

 

I just wish you best of luck, as I uderstand where you are coming from.

 

Good luck man...get that turbo working...I am very interested in what kind of numbers and spool up it will get once tunned correctly.

 

You have the hardware right, you need an EMS and a good EMS tuner. Dynoflash is great, but you have a 500whp Turbo, so spend the extra cash and buy it. If anyone tells you it doesn't idle right or cold start up right, they don't know how to tune. I had Turbotrix tune mine, they did an awesome job. And they made 340whp uncorrected with Buschur Stage 1, I did (20) 70 second autocross runs this sunday on 93 octane, so if that's not proof, I don't know what is.

 

Not really. Once you get to zero preload, we are now talking the amount of distance that the wastegate is cracked open. You can be at 0 preload and varying levels of wastegate uhhh...open-ness.

 

I have a hard time believing that BR would deliver a turbo with a wastegate arm so long that it props the sprung flapper door open. Heck, I rarely see an arm long enough to do that, even when fully extended. I'm more likely to believe that the wastegate flapper isn't seating properly against the turbine housing. Would feel just like forgetting to put in the replaceable piston seal "ring" on a Tial wastegate. I've done that before on a 2.5RS Subaru-- running a 50 trim no less. Didn't see full boost (12psi) until 5500rpm

shiv

 

It can happen, though, and it is a good thing to check when you are trying to rule out everything. I've also seen oddly offset flappers that couldn't seal right.

Oh, and I have also seen plenty of people forget to put in that TiAl ring. I helped correct such an issue just last year at a friend's house. "Hey, what's this ring in the bottom of the box?" "Oh, just some fire ring, I don't think it is necessary." "Why is the edge beveled, like that?" "doh!"

 

cool.

 

Hi guys,

I am going to post this in a few different places. This is some real world stuff for you guys.

This dyno sheet is more of what to expect instead of some of the low numbers and problems that are popping up here and there from tuning and combinations that aren't working well.

These are not the best numbers to expect, just something more respectable than what I am seeing. This dyno sheet is from a BR Stage 1-4 and the BR580 kit. It was done on C16 and tuned with the EMS. Bone stock engine, head, intake and throttle body. Boost was set at 26 psi. The tune that was done on the car was very non-aggressive and this was done an a Dynojet AWD dyno.

The 387/321 was 93 octane, timing was set at only 4 degrees at peak torque.

The 463/403 was on the C16, timing was set at only 12 degrees peak.

We did NOT do this tune, but this is a better example of what the kit is capable of even with a tune that is not aggressive. From the looks of the MAPS nothing was done at all to try and enhance the spool up on the turbo.

With a more aggressive tune and 30 psi of boost I don't see a problem with this particular car making 520 hp, that should be easy.

Thanks,

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Damn it, I already posted the dyno sheet in the "engine turbo drivetrain" topic under Buschur Racing Turbo kits. Won't allow me to post it again here.

Please go check it out.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

You can change the size of the image with the name. It will let you attach it again. software is always easy to hack

 

I'm a computer idiot, explain that to me and I will try it.

David

 

dont worry dave this ***** is gonna hit 11 sec no quesitons asked!!! and rember the biggest detail, i shift like a 79 year old trama patient......

 

oh no problem. Use Image software like Kodak imaging or ADOBE to change the size of the image. Make it smaller or a bit or bigger about 550 dpi. Rename the file it self right click on it and then rename it to Lastdyno or something. It will work.