Control Over Boost Seileniod
Originally Posted by whitet777
Any boost control, whether electronic or manual or done with the factory ECU, is not allowed in SCCA Stock Class racing.
I guess it comes down to the owner's own feelings if he wants to riase the boost up or not
No one can tell its been done
questio? If the boost is set and controlled by the ECU how come it still tapers? Just curious cause if the ECU is controlling the boost and you tell it to boost 20psi, shouldn't it technically stay at 20psi without tapering since the ECU is wanting it to boost 20psi?
Nebo
Nebo
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I would love for them to figure out a way to determine if the car has a boost control
I guess it comes down to the owner's own feelings if he wants to riase the boost up or not
No one can tell its been done
I guess it comes down to the owner's own feelings if he wants to riase the boost up or not
No one can tell its been done
Nebo
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I would love for them to figure out a way to determine if the car has a boost control
I guess it comes down to the owner's own feelings if he wants to riase the boost up or not
No one can tell its been done
I guess it comes down to the owner's own feelings if he wants to riase the boost up or not
No one can tell its been done
Anyway.
The point is for those people not wanting to buy a Boost Controller they can now get the benefits of running 20 psi with little taper.
One of the reasons it tapers is because we are in Utah and the stock turbo struggles a little up here. It's impossible to get it to hold over 21 psi through redline at this elevation. A couple guys have tried to hold 24 psi up here without luck.
Al just figured out the code and has just started to fully understand how it works. I'd say 20psi with a slight 1 psi taper is pretty good for the first shot. Would not be surprised if it holds very well at sea level and with a little more work.
The point is for those people not wanting to buy a Boost Controller they can now get the benefits of running 20 psi with little taper.
One of the reasons it tapers is because we are in Utah and the stock turbo struggles a little up here. It's impossible to get it to hold over 21 psi through redline at this elevation. A couple guys have tried to hold 24 psi up here without luck.
Al just figured out the code and has just started to fully understand how it works. I'd say 20psi with a slight 1 psi taper is pretty good for the first shot. Would not be surprised if it holds very well at sea level and with a little more work.
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
What I am saying - is there is "control" and there is CONTROL. There are several differenet parameters to control - its figuring out which does which and how they work that is the key. When I see others using "pills" to control boost - I somehow think they have not yet figured out the whole picture. I am able to control the boost with no pills.
Originally Posted by Braveheart
From the passanger seat it didn't look like the needel on the boost gauged moved that much!! I'll pay better attention to the guage when i take off for lunch today and post back on here again!!
Is it really a BOV or a recirc valve? BOV's sound cool but don't work well with the MAF sensors on our cars. I had a lot of trouble with surge on my aftermarket valve, so I went back to stock. Which one are you using?
Very interesting I will have to talk to all about this in more detail. I guess if he can tune it for higher than 20psi before the drop it would be a great option if you never put race gas in it. This and the Ecutek version of the Dynoflash has my Brain a buzzing AL.