I hooked my neg termial to rewire my amp ... all i did was take out channel 3 and 4 and brigde in a Sub.. that's all the wiriing work i touched...

When i got all the wiring done i turned the Ignition on just so i could hear/tune the music... i left the music on until i had the rest of the interior back in place... so when all was said and done i turned the car on to get it to Idle and recharge everything properly ... i then tried to take the car for a spin with the new sub... as i left my drive way and clutched in .... my car just died.

And from there i couldnt get the car to idle porperly it would just drop the revs and then kill itself ... i called my mech ... and he told me just to drive it around and see if it gets better... and surpisely it has gotten better... but it hasnt quite reached how it used to idle and react between shifts at low rpms...

*once in the rev's it's fine... no den that i could tell... pulls the same... just low rpms doesnt recact as well*

ED: my question is do u know why this happened? and/or what is going on? and it is just going to take more time for it to fix itself??

 

oo and why i posted this hear is i'm running a reflash of urs... i was wondering if u had heard of anything like this?

 

Your problems have nothing to do with a reflash

 

I'm no tuner but I am willing to offer you more help than others, and you didn't even pay me. I would start by disconnecting the battery again and start the car let it idle for about 30 seconds b4 you drive.

 

Your ECU probably reset and was "learning". No need for alarm, just drive it around a while and see if it gets better.

 

yeah anytime you disconnect the battery for more than a minute or so it resets it and then when you crank it up it will idle at 3000 or so but shold only take a few minutes(if that long) to get back to normal

 

I would say it is either the learning ECU causing trouble or the draw of you amp set up is too much and is pulling the electrical systems down. Check your voltages. Easy fix. remove the fuse for your amp and try to drive. If it is good then put the amp fuse back in and if it dies you have issues. If you check it with a volt meter your voltage should be 13.2-14.2 VDC with the amp fuse out. If it drops below 12.0 with the amp on you might need a stronger alternator.

 

Is it possible that one of your mods that you installed before the flash could be causing the trouble in the low RPMs? Like an intake or BOV? Or did the car run perfectly fine after the flash and had zero problems until the amp installation?

 

The same thing happens to me and it only happened after the custom Dynoflash. The flash is awesome and my car runs great after the learning phase is over.
Mitsubishi USA (tech line) told my service guy at the dealer (While I was on speaker) that the ECU actually counts the number of times you turn the ignition on to determine the duration of the learning phase. He didn't tell us a number sorry. He also said that it is most likely the ECU learning how to idle with the HKS cams that are installed. As I understand the Dynoflash Al doesn't touch the idle unless you have bigger injectors so I don’t fully understand it. Like I said it was only after the custom tune that this started happening.
Don't believe me? Watch and see if you car goes back to normal in just a few days!

 

word thanks

 

No problem! Let me know when it running right again!

 

I have seen many times with installed stereo systems, especially ones that need amps, Improper installations and crossed wires can reak havok on the idle of the car. If too much power is being drawn from the battery or if there is a power surging issue, it can cause serious strain on the alternator. And problems with the alternator will screw up alot of things with idle, acceleration, ect.... And an unproper ground can cause problems as well.

 

I reset my ECU now and then, it 3k revs - normal - but plains right down. Sounds like a low batt idle hunt. Happens all the time. Check charging volts (car idling, warm) vs static volts (morning before you start it) and see the difference. Should be 12.7-12.9 static and 13.9-14.4 charging. If volt readings are off have some one perform a load test. They will tell you if it passes. Good luck, bro, let us know!

 

PS... you may just need a Capacitor installed (stores amperage inbetween slams of the sub). DO NOT upgrade ALT size. Will ruin electrical system. Check the car system on and system off.