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Taking the plunge. Is this feasible?

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Old Jul 2, 2017, 02:07 PM   #1
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Taking the plunge. Is this feasible?

Hi friends!
So I got the bug and want to start modding my Evo again. I have a IX MR SE with some minor bolt on mods that I did when I bought her 10 years ago. At the time, AMS was still working on Evo's so I got their stage 1, 2 & 3 kits which consisted of a new k&N air filter, intercooler, LICP, straight through cat with exhaust and a tune from them as well.

I want to take the E85 plunge and see where it gets me. I have this grand idea of doing a new turbo system but I think I want to try this first instead. Baby steps ya know. But specifically any parts that I need to buy I want to buy them with the idea that I don't want to have to re-buy them as the project progresses.

So with that in mind, this is what I am thinking of getting:

Mini battery kit
UICP
Larger CC injectors (I've read most like FIC 1200 for this application)
New fuel rail?
Higher volume fuel pump
Maybe the AMS Intake manifold if I can find one
and a tune

I also checked to make sure I have E85 stations in my town which I have several. IS their anything else I should be looking at?
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 02:19 PM   #2
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Been on the alcohol for 8 years

Everything you noted less the:
Fuel rail & Intake mani

You will need a:
3 port boost solenoid
Open intake if you want to optimize HP
Full 3" exhaust less CAT

You should pick up approx. 50-70 Dyno Jet WHP depending on tune (boost level)
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 03:07 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MinusPrevious View Post
Been on the alcohol for 8 years

Everything you noted less the:
Fuel rail & Intake mani

You will need a:
3 port boost solenoid
Open intake if you want to optimize HP
Full 3" exhaust less CAT

You should pick up approx. 50-70 Dyno Jet WHP depending on tune (boost level)
So that I clearly understand.

When you say "Less the fuel rail and intake mani" meaning I won't need those things?

Is the AMS 3" cat back and AMS straight through cat good enough?
Open intake as in removing the MAF? I didn't think you could do that with a stock ECU.
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 03:14 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
So that I clearly understand.

When you say "Less the fuel rail and intake mani" meaning I won't need those things?

Is the AMS 3" cat back and AMS straight through cat good enough?
Open intake as in removing the MAF? I didn't think you could do that with a stock ECU.
Yes, the intake mani & fuel rail are high level mods, not needed in our cases!

Yes, Your exhaust is OK. Open intake is like an AEM or similar using the MAF.

My engine internals are stock (no cam) w/410/407 Dyno Jet power
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 04:12 PM   #5
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As mentioned above, in addition to the fuel injectors (no less than 1200cc), fuel pump (no less than 320lph with Ethanol safe filter sock), 3-port boost controller, UICP, and minibattery to fit your UICP:

If you haven't yet, you should look into crushing your DV. At least partial to hold 28psi.

- Clean out your intercooler if you have time. My stock intercooler had lots of red K&N filter oil from me over oiling my filter
- Don't forget the do boost leak test to 30psi (especially check your throttlebody seals)
- Change your oil & filter and clean your air filter
- Change your spark plugs (go ahead and do compression check while you're there)
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 06:02 PM   #6
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What intercooler do you have? Their AMS 3.5"?
If so, you may want to add hta71 before the E85 tune. This turbo is amazing and only costs $700.

A reason to add the turbo before the tune is because you will have to pay for tune again with turbo upgrade later. For me, that's $600, so it made sense to include my hta71.

And add an O2 housing. MAP has it for $89 if you want to save $ by reusing your nuts and bolts. You may need a new donut though.

Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Jul 2, 2017 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 06:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer View Post
What intercooler do you have? Their AMS 3.5"?
If so, you may want to add hta71 before the E85 tune. This turbo is amazing and only costs $700.

A reason to add the turbo before the tune is because you will have to pay for tune again with turbo upgrade later. For me, that's $600, so it made sense to include my hta71.

And add an O2 housing. MAP has it for $89 if you want to save $ by reusing your nuts and bolts. You may need a new donut though.
I like your advice. If youre going to do this, go BIG. I should have done more, but kept it on the simple side & didnt want to push the stock motor too hard

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Old Jul 2, 2017, 06:40 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious View Post
I like your advice. If youre going to do this, go BIG. I should have done more, but kept it on the simple side & didnt want to push the stock motor too hard

It's just a few more items. If he wants to add these later, he will need a retune. For me, that's $600 extra to wait unril later. That's why I did it myaelf. Originally, I was only doing E85 and ended up adding FMIC & hta71. It was reasonable for $700 each.
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 06:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MinusPrevious View Post
I like your advice. If youre going to do this, go BIG. I should have done more, but kept it on the simple side & didnt want to push the stock motor too hard

Hta71 is perfect if you don't want to push motor too hard because it's only a slight upgrade from stock. About the same lag (which is next to nothing) with 20% more flow. After getting spanked by a Hellcat, I want more power, but I don't want lag, so I'm stuck. Besides, more power means I'll need a stonger bottom end to be safe.
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 07:02 PM   #10
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Also, when was the last time you changed the timing belt?
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 10:45 PM   #11
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OMG I love the info guys! Thank you! And I have to apologize guys. I have been here for 10 years and all I've done is read post. I have never done anything to my car other than what's state above. So some of my questions are coming from a 4 year old that doesn't know everything your talking about.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer View Post
As mentioned above, in addition to the fuel injectors (no less than 1200cc), fuel pump (no less than 320lph with Ethanol safe filter sock), 3-port boost controller, UICP, and minibattery to fit your UICP:

If you haven't yet, you should look into crushing your DV. At least partial to hold 28psi.

- Clean out your intercooler if you have time. My stock intercooler had lots of red K&N filter oil from me over oiling my filter
- Don't forget the do boost leak test to 30psi (especially check your throttlebody seals)
- Change your oil & filter and clean your air filter
- Change your spark plugs (go ahead and do compression check while you're there)

I have the AMS 3". I honestly don't know if they had a 3.5" or if what I have is a 3.5" intercooler. I do know that I bought it from them 10 years ago. So it's probably do for a cleaning. Anything other than soap and water?

I did the timing belt at 120k. Hopefully that means I should be good till around 180-ish, correct?

Plugs were changed at 144k. And I'll change the oil and filter. I'll also do some searching on crushing the DV as I've seen it suggested but have no idea what's involved.

If I need at least the FIC 1200cc injectors, should I go larger? High impedance or low impedance? I know what the impedance is but why does it matter?

Any specific 3 port you guys like better than another?

Along that line if I get the smaller HTA71, do I need to look at a special style of UICP? Specifically do I need piping that accommodates an aftermarket blow off valve?

I like the idea of the HTA71 because it is reasonable. I have realized I will need to build a motor if I am going to put the FP red, zephyr or any T series turbo on the current engine. And I am not sure what you mean by needing a new donut?
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Old Jul 2, 2017, 11:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006EvoIXer View Post
Hta71 is perfect if you don't want to push motor too hard because it's only a slight upgrade from stock. About the same lag (which is next to nothing) with 20% more flow. After getting spanked by a Hellcat, I want more power, but I don't want lag, so I'm stuck. Besides, more power means I'll need a stonger bottom end to be safe.
If I'm reading this correctly, you want more power than what the HTA provides or you wished you had the HTA?
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Old Jul 3, 2017, 07:31 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
If I'm reading this correctly, you want more power than what the HTA provides or you wished you had the HTA?
**Edited** I just installed my HTA71 and just got tuned June 9th.
I do want more power but that means bigger turbo, and engine build (which won't be in my budget for another 10 years).

The hta71 is the perfect turbo for stock engine where we get best response that pushes the engine to it's limits. Many others have been saying this for years and they're right. Don't get me wrong. I love my hta71. I just want to beat the Hellcats on the track, but that will be expensive. Lol

Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Jul 4, 2017 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2017, 07:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
I have the AMS 3". I honestly don't know if they had a 3.5" or if what I have is a 3.5" intercooler. I do know that I bought it from them 10 years ago. So it's probably do for a cleaning. Anything other than soap and water?

I did the timing belt at 120k. Hopefully that means I should be good till around 180-ish, correct?

Plugs were changed at 144k. And I'll change the oil and filter. I'll also do some searching on crushing the DV as I've seen it suggested but have no idea what's involved.

If I need at least the FIC 1200cc injectors, should I go larger? High impedance or low impedance? I know what the impedance is but why does it matter?

Any specific 3 port you guys like better than another?

Along that line if I get the smaller HTA71, do I need to look at a special style of UICP? Specifically do I need piping that accommodates an aftermarket blow off valve?

I like the idea of the HTA71 because it is reasonable. I have realized I will need to build a motor if I am going to put the FP red, zephyr or any T series turbo on the current engine. And I am not sure what you mean by needing a new donut?
Soap and water is what I used. Not sure if there's anything better.
You have a high mileage motor, so tuner should be very conservative. Definitely do compression test. I just did my 1st timing belt at 56k miles so my tuner wasn't as conservative and got me 430 hp/400 tq.
Don't go larger than 1200cc because cost jumps drastically. Take a look into RC engineering for their prices. 1200 is plenty for your situation even if you go a little bigger on turbo. Besides it get tougher to tune for idle with bigger injectors. I can't remember if evos use high or low, but one will need to be modified.
Most common is Grimmspeed but ask your tuner which is their preference.
Hta71 fits in stock location, so nothing special needs to be done
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Old Jul 4, 2017, 09:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
And I have to apologize guys. I have been here for 10 years and all I've done is read post. I have never done anything to my car other than what's state above. So some of my questions are coming from a 4 year old that doesn't know everything your talking about.
I am in the same boat. I checked in maybe once every 2 years until the end of May 2017 when I needed my 1st timing belt change. That's when I went through what you're going through now.
I got lots of help, so I'm only passing on what I learned from others on this site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
Plugs were changed at 144k. And I'll change the oil and filter. I'll also do some searching on crushing the DV as I've seen it suggested but have no idea what's involved.
Your tuner should be very careful with power since your engine has so many miles. The tune should be super conservative. As for the stock DV, take the top part off (without the bottom hose connector to the intercooler pipe) and put in a vise. Use pieces of wood to sandwich your DV and slowly crush the top down until the diaphragm nipple touches the diaphragm housing (full crush) or leave a little gap for hose for partial crush. If full crush, then you will need to bend the nipple up for hose to attach. And that's it. Reinstall on to car.

The crush is effortless because DV is soft, but use a vise for proper crush so it doesn't come out lopsided.

Quote:
Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
Along that line if I get the smaller HTA71, do I need to look at a special style of UICP? Specifically do I need piping that accommodates an aftermarket blow off valve?
If your crush your DV, use old UICP. If you're upgrading to aftermarket BOV, then you modify accordingly (nothing special because of hta71).

Quote:
Originally Posted by N1MR0D View Post
I like the idea of the HTA71 because it is reasonable. I have realized I will need to build a motor if I am going to put the FP red, zephyr or any T series turbo on the current engine. And I am not sure what you mean by needing a new donut?
New donut if you get after market O2 housing to go between new O2 housing and downpipe. I think the stock donut won't fit. I think MAP O2 housing is 3-inch diameter and the stock is smaller.

If I missed any questions, ask again. I'm lazy and only use my phone to browse. Too much hassle to start laptop.
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