tune for better gas mileage?
I knock a part throttle open - closed transition, too much air and not enough fuel.
If it's a WOT open - closed transition the knock doesn't have time to happen for the transition is to quick.
I think I can solve this with the Open Loop Load #1, Open Loop Load #2, Open Loop Throttle Low Load, and the Open Loop Throttle High Load tables.
I don't know where to start #1 and #2 have already been set to lower loads and the Throttle voltage settings were decreased as well, I guess I'll do some more. If it gets worse, I'll do the opposite lol
If it's a WOT open - closed transition the knock doesn't have time to happen for the transition is to quick.
I think I can solve this with the Open Loop Load #1, Open Loop Load #2, Open Loop Throttle Low Load, and the Open Loop Throttle High Load tables.
I don't know where to start #1 and #2 have already been set to lower loads and the Throttle voltage settings were decreased as well, I guess I'll do some more. If it gets worse, I'll do the opposite lol
Tuning for better gas milage is a balance between AFR and timing among other things.
You really need to be on a dyno to see your results.
If you are driving up a hill coming home from work, and you had adjusted your timing such that you are making no power, you will need to compensate by working the engine harder or by some other means to get up the hill at the same speed.
You really need to be on a dyno to see your results.
If you are driving up a hill coming home from work, and you had adjusted your timing such that you are making no power, you will need to compensate by working the engine harder or by some other means to get up the hill at the same speed.
Pontiac solstice runs mid 13s AF at WOT under boost and - timing much of the RPM range. I assume this means the car is much more efficient with combustion and fuel. But with less room for added power, Ha.
But the factory Evo fuel maps - goodness gracious, was it intended to avoid blown up engines? Or was it to give us no option but to modify and ultimately have no warranty?
But the factory Evo fuel maps - goodness gracious, was it intended to avoid blown up engines? Or was it to give us no option but to modify and ultimately have no warranty?
Are we then to assume that Mitsubishi doesn't know what it is doing? It is important to remember that there can be valid reasons to decide to run rich. How good is the intercooling? Can the cat run at peak efficiency without burning up when you stomp on the gas?
Besides, the "pig rich" tune is only rich open loop. So it seems to me you are saying, 'don't use so much gas when you stomp on it...'. I'd say, you'll save a lot more fuel by just changing your driving habits so the ECU doesn't go open loop or use psuedo accell pump code so often.
-jjf
Besides, the "pig rich" tune is only rich open loop. So it seems to me you are saying, 'don't use so much gas when you stomp on it...'. I'd say, you'll save a lot more fuel by just changing your driving habits so the ECU doesn't go open loop or use psuedo accell pump code so often.
-jjf
Not really. The MS3 also has direct injection but it runs even richer than the Evo. I give GM credit for tuning the car correctly. It is refreshing to see a stock turbo car that does not rely on timing advance and a rich mixture to produce power.
leave it in gear, since when in gear and off throttle the injectors are shut off.
when u're in neutral ur engine's idling, so it's still using up fuel.
someone correct me if i'm wrong, thanks in advance.
when u're in neutral ur engine's idling, so it's still using up fuel.
someone correct me if i'm wrong, thanks in advance.
With DI engines that are non-turbo, can run some super lean A/F, somewhere in the neighborhood of 30:1. If you tried that with a port injection, it wouldn't burn.
Anyways, there's lots of info out on it.
Check out the A/F for a stock BMW 335
I'm with you guys, I thought getting 230 a tank was good. When I first got the car, I drove it gently due to not having insurance on it yet so it yielded me ~260-270 a tank.
In a nutshell:
220/tank = flooring the **** out of it 24/7
230/tank = sprinting whenever possible
240/tank = light boosting, offramps, straightaways
260/tank = no boosting
I have intake/exhaust/cam/test pipe/22psi boost/tune.
In a nutshell:
220/tank = flooring the **** out of it 24/7
230/tank = sprinting whenever possible
240/tank = light boosting, offramps, straightaways
260/tank = no boosting
I have intake/exhaust/cam/test pipe/22psi boost/tune.
Actually, it IS because of direct injection. Injecting directly into the cylinders requires very high pressure (otherwise, it wouldn't go in) and that creates a very well atomized fuel mist which in turn vaporizes readily lowering the charge temp. Plus, with direct injection, you can specifically time when in the cycle you inject the fuel.
With DI engines that are non-turbo, can run some super lean A/F, somewhere in the neighborhood of 30:1. If you tried that with a port injection, it wouldn't burn.
Anyways, there's lots of info out on it.
Check out the A/F for a stock BMW 335
With DI engines that are non-turbo, can run some super lean A/F, somewhere in the neighborhood of 30:1. If you tried that with a port injection, it wouldn't burn.
Anyways, there's lots of info out on it.
Check out the A/F for a stock BMW 335

What I am saying is, just because the car runs DI, does not mean that the factory will tune it lean to take advantage of DI.








