O2 Sensors need to exceed 550*F just to function properly so be careful where you would place it

 

hey guys,

once I get my car - please god tommorow??? - I will be testing MrFred's rear02 simulator.

if it works ill be intergrating into my ECU patches.. this means you don't need to do the above patch which also means you pass the readiness test.

+ the above patch doesn't work for some evo's (mine included)

anyways you will still need to do the resistor mod if you want to remove the rearo2 altogether

 

Nice....I have had the rear O2 CEL for qutie a while now, even with a hi-flow cat. So, I am assuming that you guys found the RAM locations for the OBD readiness tests then?

 

You never did the simple "O2 extension" mod from ebay or the anti-fouler mod? First damn thing I did when I got my CEL the first time. Cost me $11.

 

No, I have been extrememly lazy about modding/tuning my car. I knew I would eventually fix it, but never got around to it.

 

awesome write up guys

 

We just simulate the rear O2 sensor signal rather than mess with the ODB readiness settings. The simulated sensor signal is fed into the RAM value for the rear O2 sensor, and the actual sensor reading is directed to an unused RAM address.

 

It works like a charm, thank you . You are the man mrFred .

 

I would like to remove my rear O2.

I have disabled it in the ECU but want to remove the sensor and replace it with the LC1. Is it possible to use the heater circuit for the LC1?

 

The rear O2 heater circuit shares the same power wire as the ECU. If a WBO2 sensor draws considerably more current than the OEM NBO2 sensor, it would not be a good idea to use the NBO2 sensor heater power wire.

For the time being, if you want to remove the rear O2 sensor, the best solution would be to install a resistor across the heater pins on the OEM rear O2 sensor heater harness as described in the start of this thread.

 

Thanks. I'm looking to avoid hacking my wiring harness and keeping the install as clean as possible. I did some reseach this morning and I really doubt the WB would draw more than the NB. I think this will work without issue.

 

If you try it, keep in mind that if the current draw is significantly higher, it could cause problems with the ECU. My plan is to draw power directly off the fuse box in the passenger compartment. Jorge T showed me a connector that goes in place of a fuse and allows you to draw power from a fuse connection. There looks to be one unused fuse connection in there that is IG2 so it only draws power with the key in the "ign on" position which is the best way to power the LC-1.

 

I'd like to know which fuse you are using for key on power. When wiring up my alchy kit on my 03 I tried a bunch of different add-a-fuse locations but didn't find an ignition on only source.

That being said I highly doubt the current would be any higher. Heck most people use the cig lighter as a source of power for the LC1.

 

anyway you can measure the current draw of the LC1 and the stock NB? that way you will get a good idea of the ECU's capabilities...

 

A basic digital multi-meter set to 10 amps (most common setting) and installed inline with the power lead will suffice.

Here you go:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...6118#post46118