Evo anti-lag ECU disassembly
is a 88580013, 88580014, 88580015 rom interchangable with a 88590015 rom?
"http://evoecu.logic.net/wiki/File:88580015.zip"
This webpage does not list a market for the 88580015 ROM.
"http://evoecu.logic.net/wiki/File:88580015.zip"
This webpage does not list a market for the 88580015 ROM.
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Dec 30, 2010 at 09:54 AM.
Andrew/evoRS06
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZwcyzHeoSo
Makes enough boost to open the boost dump on the testpipe with the throttle plate CLOSED (7psi spring in the dump).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZwcyzHeoSo
Makes enough boost to open the boost dump on the testpipe with the throttle plate CLOSED (7psi spring in the dump).
Last edited by JohnBradley; Feb 15, 2011 at 04:50 PM.
Which? The testpipe dump will be a product we are coming out with the next few months. The Antilag is all factory parts from overseas that we were able to source locally from DaveK (rallyist).
Aaron
Aaron
will this "patch" or code be available to anyone who is interested?(and has the hardware)
More or less i was just wondering since there was atleast one other person who got it working on a USDM car with all factory hardware. Just wondering if you were teasing the last 600 posters, or planning to release the fruits of your labor
More or less i was just wondering since there was atleast one other person who got it working on a USDM car with all factory hardware. Just wondering if you were teasing the last 600 posters, or planning to release the fruits of your labor
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Feb 15, 2011 at 03:33 PM.
well its not patched. i will be more than happy to share the ecu control side with everyone as soon as coders will give me a hand with some custom tables to refine its control. i have asked multiple people for thier help coding these tables and to no return except for Mrfred, but i havent heard anything back from him since my last p'm, which Im sure he has other pressing matters like work, etc.
. I would like to keep the ecu control as simple as it is without people having to repin the ecu. As far as the hardware i am contemplating makeing it so that it will be readly available. I have already done testing on the turbo longevity, for the most part, and my stock turbo was absolutely prestine so i will being doing more testing with the red, this is all on E85 though.
. I would like to keep the ecu control as simple as it is without people having to repin the ecu. As far as the hardware i am contemplating makeing it so that it will be readly available. I have already done testing on the turbo longevity, for the most part, and my stock turbo was absolutely prestine so i will being doing more testing with the red, this is all on E85 though.
Last edited by evoRS06; Feb 15, 2011 at 04:08 PM.
Wow, props to you guys. I cant quite tell if that is some flame shooting from the dump, but nevertheless good job. Is this with the SAS bits or the throttle kicker?
Im going to have to step up my game.
Cheers
Im going to have to step up my game.
Cheers
Its the sas hardware minus the vacuum canister, and the solenoid. Egr is disabbled through MUT. As soon as I can get some help writining the tables then I will post all the controls on the ecu side
. We will be hopefully posting soon a video of an actual reading of how much boost is being generated in the charge pipes.
. We will be hopefully posting soon a video of an actual reading of how much boost is being generated in the charge pipes.
Wow interesting. How did you get the SAS to work without the solenoid? Is it hooked directly to a vaccuum source to the intake manifold?
Is that with -25 degrees of timing or more?
Really stoked for you guys...next step is to get that thing working at idle...:-)
Is that with -25 degrees of timing or more?
Really stoked for you guys...next step is to get that thing working at idle...:-)
Last edited by Maikumaru; Feb 16, 2011 at 09:43 AM.
The system uses a solenoid, just not the sas one. For the banjo bolts I used Nissan 240 powersteering ones, the hex has to be "trimmed" a bit, but they have bigger holes than the sas ones and because I put the hardware on late one night I couldnt buy any crush washers so I used regular ones, and to my surprise they work very well with only a slight leak on the number 3&4 cylinder side.







