Intercooler spray disassembly/explanation
Intercooler spray disassembly/explanation
I went through some of the code for the IC spray function.
ON mode switch time is the time required for the switch to be pressed to change modes. Seems to be some sort of debounce logic in there, but as it is the setting at zero works fine so best left alone I think.
Water temp hi and lo are hysteresis on the coolant temp for enabling the autospray. Since they are at 100-105C this is why autospray never operates in normal use.
Vehicle speed is the speed below which the spray operates, on my car 100km/h results in 100mph because of the Mitsubishi UK km/h-mph converter. Presumably at high speed the IC spray is thought not to be needed. Certainly I've observed the amazing IC efficiency at high speed when on track with a Scooby with FMIC - the full power run down the half mile straight at Knockhill actually cools the charge temperature rather than increases it. I've seen similar behaviour on the Evo on the road when I had a thermocouple in the charge pipe connecting to the throttle body.
On time of 2 sec and off time of 5 sec effectively give a duty for the pump to stop it burning out.
EV I'm not sure on.
Judgement hi and lo are TPS voltage at 3.59 to 4.00 for hysteresis. Basically you need 80% throttle for it to operate.
Air temp of 5C stops it working when air inlet temp is below 5C. Presumably because the water might be frozen and because it won't be needed.
RPM - if above 3500 the autospray is enabled.
So to turn it on it just needs the trigger coolant temp reduced.
ON mode switch time is the time required for the switch to be pressed to change modes. Seems to be some sort of debounce logic in there, but as it is the setting at zero works fine so best left alone I think.
Water temp hi and lo are hysteresis on the coolant temp for enabling the autospray. Since they are at 100-105C this is why autospray never operates in normal use.
Vehicle speed is the speed below which the spray operates, on my car 100km/h results in 100mph because of the Mitsubishi UK km/h-mph converter. Presumably at high speed the IC spray is thought not to be needed. Certainly I've observed the amazing IC efficiency at high speed when on track with a Scooby with FMIC - the full power run down the half mile straight at Knockhill actually cools the charge temperature rather than increases it. I've seen similar behaviour on the Evo on the road when I had a thermocouple in the charge pipe connecting to the throttle body.
On time of 2 sec and off time of 5 sec effectively give a duty for the pump to stop it burning out.
EV I'm not sure on.
Judgement hi and lo are TPS voltage at 3.59 to 4.00 for hysteresis. Basically you need 80% throttle for it to operate.
Air temp of 5C stops it working when air inlet temp is below 5C. Presumably because the water might be frozen and because it won't be needed.
RPM - if above 3500 the autospray is enabled.
So to turn it on it just needs the trigger coolant temp reduced.
I suppose the useful functionality that could be used would be a minimum RPM trigger and a TPS trigger. I think though it would bog down with too much fuel before boost appeared if you were in a lower gear at say 3000 RPM and booted it, whereas in a higher gear if you lugged it from low down you'd need the alky running well?
A map like a fuel map using a duty cycle output would be good.
A map like a fuel map using a duty cycle output would be good.
Trending Topics
I have IC charge configured to energize IC relay according to the voltage I enter in the TPS.
I don't have anything wired through the relay contacts yet, havent decided. But I do have a LED to indicate relay energized
But if you set all the other parameters to a minimal value, the one remaining parameter can be used to contol something, like water temp can be used for a warning light set to whatever, minimal RPM (with another relay) can be a shift point indicator (except for time lag of relays), and bla, bla,
I don't have anything wired through the relay contacts yet, havent decided. But I do have a LED to indicate relay energized
But if you set all the other parameters to a minimal value, the one remaining parameter can be used to contol something, like water temp can be used for a warning light set to whatever, minimal RPM (with another relay) can be a shift point indicator (except for time lag of relays), and bla, bla,
Hysterisis is a remanent curve originally due to magnetism properties.
In this case, it's because you have a heating curve until fan starts and then another curve when water themp is going down. It's just mean that it's not a lineal behavior.

You can read more about hysterisis here:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...lids/hyst.html
Cheers.
In this case, it's because you have a heating curve until fan starts and then another curve when water themp is going down. It's just mean that it's not a lineal behavior.

You can read more about hysterisis here:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...lids/hyst.html
Cheers.
I think that it's easy to build a home made IC spray controler with regular pump / tank /injector + NE555 based circuit connected to RPM gauge (a plus will be installing an extra pressure sensor) but I definitively think that a direct water injection in the intake manifold will be more efficient. You can also try (I want to do it soon too!) to install a house made air/water intercooler on both pipes arround air/air intercooler. Extra water radiator can take place in the opposite side of oil radiator.... Will publish results of my tests...
Why everybody wants to get more? :-)
Why everybody wants to get more? :-)
I went through some of the code for the IC spray function.
ON mode switch time is the time required for the switch to be pressed to change modes. Seems to be some sort of debounce logic in there, but as it is the setting at zero works fine so best left alone I think.
Water temp hi and lo are hysteresis on the coolant temp for enabling the autospray. Since they are at 100-105C this is why autospray never operates in normal use.
Vehicle speed is the speed below which the spray operates, on my car 100km/h results in 100mph because of the Mitsubishi UK km/h-mph converter. Presumably at high speed the IC spray is thought not to be needed. Certainly I've observed the amazing IC efficiency at high speed when on track with a Scooby with FMIC - the full power run down the half mile straight at Knockhill actually cools the charge temperature rather than increases it. I've seen similar behaviour on the Evo on the road when I had a thermocouple in the charge pipe connecting to the throttle body.
On time of 2 sec and off time of 5 sec effectively give a duty for the pump to stop it burning out.
EV I'm not sure on.
Judgement hi and lo are TPS voltage at 3.59 to 4.00 for hysteresis. Basically you need 80% throttle for it to operate.
Air temp of 5C stops it working when air inlet temp is below 5C. Presumably because the water might be frozen and because it won't be needed.
RPM - if above 3500 the autospray is enabled.
So to turn it on it just needs the trigger coolant temp reduced.
ON mode switch time is the time required for the switch to be pressed to change modes. Seems to be some sort of debounce logic in there, but as it is the setting at zero works fine so best left alone I think.
Water temp hi and lo are hysteresis on the coolant temp for enabling the autospray. Since they are at 100-105C this is why autospray never operates in normal use.
Vehicle speed is the speed below which the spray operates, on my car 100km/h results in 100mph because of the Mitsubishi UK km/h-mph converter. Presumably at high speed the IC spray is thought not to be needed. Certainly I've observed the amazing IC efficiency at high speed when on track with a Scooby with FMIC - the full power run down the half mile straight at Knockhill actually cools the charge temperature rather than increases it. I've seen similar behaviour on the Evo on the road when I had a thermocouple in the charge pipe connecting to the throttle body.
On time of 2 sec and off time of 5 sec effectively give a duty for the pump to stop it burning out.
EV I'm not sure on.
Judgement hi and lo are TPS voltage at 3.59 to 4.00 for hysteresis. Basically you need 80% throttle for it to operate.
Air temp of 5C stops it working when air inlet temp is below 5C. Presumably because the water might be frozen and because it won't be needed.
RPM - if above 3500 the autospray is enabled.
So to turn it on it just needs the trigger coolant temp reduced.
60 and 65 would do fine.
I think though the ideal IC spray would use inlet manifold temperature and throttle as its main variables. I suppose the routine could be altered since my IX has an inlet manifold temp sensor. Quite tempting actually.
I think though the ideal IC spray would use inlet manifold temperature and throttle as its main variables. I suppose the routine could be altered since my IX has an inlet manifold temp sensor. Quite tempting actually.
Thanks, I will try those values on my 03.
Decided to use IC charge spray switch and relay to operate a diverter valve solenoid (to hold solid boost) at 3.5 volts on TPS.
Has absolutely nothing to do with squirting water over a IC but for me is an improvement over the hobbs switch from before, and manual mode too.
If I were to ever run a water sprayer with this gig I would definately swap the Denso with a 150PSI Surflo atomizing water through a tiny 60ml/min nozzle, maybe even experiment spraying this small amount into the IC.
Has absolutely nothing to do with squirting water over a IC but for me is an improvement over the hobbs switch from before, and manual mode too.
If I were to ever run a water sprayer with this gig I would definately swap the Denso with a 150PSI Surflo atomizing water through a tiny 60ml/min nozzle, maybe even experiment spraying this small amount into the IC.







