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HOW TO - Control boost using ECUFLash and 3 port GM boost solenoid

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Old Nov 5, 2008, 09:10 PM
  #361  
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Very imformative thread.
Old Nov 10, 2008, 12:01 PM
  #362  
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Great thread, very interesting....
I got one question..

In my corner of the world, the GM BCS's are very hard to come by... I have a faulty GReddy Profsec B II boost controller, the electronic in the box is blown, and was wondering if I could use the GRreddy 3 port solenoid in place of the GM unit.

Thx
Old Nov 10, 2008, 12:58 PM
  #363  
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Originally Posted by SeanV
Great thread, very interesting....
I got one question..

In my corner of the world, the GM BCS's are very hard to come by... I have a faulty GReddy Profsec B II boost controller, the electronic in the box is blown, and was wondering if I could use the GRreddy 3 port solenoid in place of the GM unit.

Thx
Check the resistance of the solenoid. If its between 24-36 ohms, it should work fine by itself. If its lower than that, you'll want to put in a resistor to get it up to at least 25 ohms.
Old Nov 28, 2008, 05:34 PM
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Just an observation if I understood right:
I do not have the exact R values from the stock BCS, nether the GM 3 ports but since everybody seems to explain that the 10 ohms resistor is to simulate a 28-32 ohms from factory BCS... Math tell me that the power of the additional resistor should be at least 2 watt (and not 1 as mentioned) .
And regarding R vs response time, may be it will be good to try with a normalized 8.2 ohms - 3W.... That's just my opinion....
Old Nov 28, 2008, 07:15 PM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by Vigman
Just an observation if I understood right:
I do not have the exact R values from the stock BCS, nether the GM 3 ports but since everybody seems to explain that the 10 ohms resistor is to simulate a 28-32 ohms from factory BCS... Math tell me that the power of the additional resistor should be at least 2 watt (and not 1 as mentioned) .
And regarding R vs response time, may be it will be good to try with a normalized 8.2 ohms - 3W.... That's just my opinion....
All your questions should be answered here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=379043
Old Nov 29, 2008, 12:45 AM
  #366  
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Thanks for the how to. I bought the parts this week and am looking forward to giving it a go. Pricing seems to have gone up a bit. At RockAuto is was:

ACDELCO PT374 $ 15.40
ACDELCO 214474 $ 48.89
Old Dec 2, 2008, 12:52 AM
  #367  
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Hi..
I recently changed back to ECU controlled boost suing a Greddy 3 port soleniod.
My biggest problem is trying to sort out the dip at 4000-4500 rpm.

I have seen this before on the forums, and it seems to be quite a common problem with ECU controlled boost.

MY thinking is that it could be due to the spike at peak boost (3700rpm) and the dip is just the ECU doing it thing to try and bring it back into line.
It doesn't really make any sense why it is doing any corrections because my "Turbo
Boost Error correction" table is all zero's.

Unfortunately I am unable to log boost atm, my Zeitronix will be arriving soon.

With the attached log below, I am boosting 1,8bar tappering down to 1,45 at 7000rpm.

My mods are.
Std Evo 8 turbo.
Megan O2 housing.
Works down pipe.
Custom 3" exhaust with Megan back box.
BC 272 cams.
Greddy 3 port solenoid.
Full Nisei LICP and UICP.
K&N large cone filter with adaptor.
Forge BOV using 2 spacers with the red spring.
I am at "Elevation: 1,753 M (5,751.3 FT)".

Please take a log at my 3rd gear logs below and also my current boost settings. Any advice to get rid of that dip will be most welcome

Thx
Attached Thumbnails HOW TO - Control boost using ECUFLash and 3 port GM boost solenoid-boost-tables.png  
Attached Files
File Type: zip
3rd gear log.zip (9.2 KB, 3 views)
Old Dec 2, 2008, 09:20 AM
  #368  
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That dip is most likely because of the lower WGDC at 4000-4250, have you tried putting something like 65 in 4000 and 66 in 4250?
Old Dec 2, 2008, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
That dip is most likely because of the lower WGDC at 4000-4250, have you tried putting something like 65 in 4000 and 66 in 4250?
Thx I will give that a try with those numbers.

I did try something similar but made other changes as well which caused too much confusion. I guess the best method is to make one change at a time to see the differences.
Old Feb 1, 2009, 06:05 AM
  #370  
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Good info. Very complicated. It's gonna take a while to learn how to tune my own car.

What if you eventually want to go up to around 30 psi. Then what? What do you have to change to use the stock ecu or is that even a good idea?
Old Feb 1, 2009, 08:35 AM
  #371  
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Tuning for 30psi is no different than tunign for 20psi. Just start with low values and work your way up, until you get to the level you want. Make sure your AFR and timing are in check (with no knock) as you do this, or you'll be an unhappy camper I run 29-30psi daily on this same setup.
Old Feb 4, 2009, 11:53 AM
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Incase anyone still wants to buy these. I just bought the AC Delco 214-474, PT374 ones (solenoid and pigtail) for $40 shipped.
Old Feb 4, 2009, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by xmaciek82x
Incase anyone still wants to buy these. I just bought the AC Delco 214-474, PT374 ones (solenoid and pigtail) for $40 shipped.
care to tell us where?? PM is fine
Old Feb 4, 2009, 01:26 PM
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I'd also like to know.

Thanks!
Old Feb 4, 2009, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fjo_newport
I'd also like to know.

Thanks!
Originally Posted by derekste
care to tell us where?? PM is fine
LOL sorry everyone, I can't believe I left that part out. That would explain all the PMs from people....

Juggling a conference call and typing wasn't a good idea. Need to work on my multi-tasking skills.

I ordered through amazon.com, just paste in the part # and it will show up. I believe the solenoid was $15 and pigtail was $25. Yea, I know its weird the pigtail was more, but you get free shipping if you get one from amazon directly.

AC Delco on amazon has the pigtail for $16, but then you would have to pay seperate shipping for solenoid and pigtail.


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