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I feel the need to lean!!

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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #31  
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blaming spark plugs for blowing engines is a new one on me..
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:32 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by atlvalet
A slight "OT" but it was brought up in this thread.

I used to use the BR8ES plug, but have heard from a few tuners in SoCal that this plug is "bad" and to use the protuding electrode plug. RRE said a guy brought in an engine that blew with BR8ES plugs. Also, Smogrunner blew his engine with the BR8ES plugs, but that has something to do with turning up the boost too much
I've used non-protruding plugs for years with no issues. A engine blowing with BR8ES plugs has other issues.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #33  
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In SoCal, there are two MAIN options for tuning, either Tuning Tech or Scot Gray. There is a third option which is MFQ. So who was it that tuned your car?

I am willing to go out on a limb and say that your timing is still stock or stockish. A stock Evo 9 runs 14-16* of timing by redline/cutoff. In the 3rd gear log he has 7 counts of knock and 12* timing @ 7500 rpm. Assuming that this pulled 2*, then that should leave a target timing of 14-15* in the map.

Your fuel map is just a bit leaner than stock, given that a stock Evo runs @ 9.5:1 by redline/cuttoff and your car is @ 10:1 by redline/cuttoff. So the "tooner" only leaned the car by 0.5 afr up top.

I would suggest that you go back to your tuner and get a refund on this tune. Then contact pd1 (scott Barbour) if you want a local tuner or go see Razolab (bryan) if you want a bay area tuners. For some reason all the good pro-tuners are in the Bay Area.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:23 PM
  #34  
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by atlvalet
A slight "OT" but it was brought up in this thread.

I used to use the BR8ES plug, but have heard from a few tuners in SoCal that this plug is "bad" and to use the protuding electrode plug. RRE said a guy brought in an engine that blew with BR8ES plugs. Also, Smogrunner blew his engine with the BR8ES plugs, but that has something to do with turning up the boost too much

I realize this is all hearsay, without any data to back-up the claims. I have heard you want to get the tip away from all the heat (hence non-protuding electrodes). I have also heard you want to get the spark as close as possible to all the "action."

Since I am a layman, and don't (at the moment) possess enough knowledge to form an intelligent opinion on the matter, I just went the safe route an am presently using BPR8ES plugs.

Any thoughts?
I am by no means and expert on spark plugs, but as a mechanical engineer I would suggest these ideas to be explored:

A Non-Protruding tip does remove a lot of the spark plugs area out of the combustion chamber. This helps minimize/eliminate some potential areas for hot spots to form in the combustion chamber which is one cause of knock. This is a good thing in my opinion.

I have seen some Formula 1 spark plugs (actually made by "crapy" Champion, this may be interesting to some people) and have talked to a very knowledgable F1 engineer who has said that the plugs they use must not protrude into the cylinder due to clearence issues with the pistons (these have no hooks obviously and the electrode is flush with the combustion chamber roof). The reason I mention this is that while spark getting to the mixture is important, we are talking about a compressed, flamable gas. If there is the right amount of both air and fuel and a good source of ignition, it is going to light! The origin from which the flame front propagates is not changed between a projected and no projected plug, and the direction that the flame propagates will be the same.

Perhaps this slight change in the placement of the electrode and the fact that the plug "acts" colder means that you need to run more advance to acheive the same torque, but I have never seen it. When I am able to run more advance due to the install of these plugs I see gains. A degree of advance can be quite a bit of power depending on your setup, and for a new set of plugs for less than 10 bucks, sometimes plugs can be the absolute best bang for your buck!

The only other thing that I would like to say is that a lot of people dont realize just how important sparkplugs are. They take care of a lot of the heat transfer from the combustion chamber to the head. Torque them to spec. This allows them to seat properly and do there job. It is important to have the correct heat range also. Sorry for Getting OT. Good Luck everyone!
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 03:24 PM
  #35  
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Ok the 1st logs I did that I posted on page 1 where done @22.7psi...
And now I did some more logs lastnight and I lowered the psi to 22.0psi...And I noticed not as much knock as last logs,,Both 3rd gear logs and 4th gear logs where done going up hill...So they had some good load I think!!!
So LOOK at the new logs,,lower boost,,,,
Attached Files
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 03:43 PM
  #36  
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You still have knock and the ECU is still pulling 2* of timing. You need to do the following:

1. Redo your timing map. Set it to ~4* @ peak down from the current 6-7* and ~11* by cuttoff/redline.

2. Lean out your fuel map. Set your AFR to ~11.5 by peak and taper it to 11 by redline cuttoff.

Lowering the boost is not the way to fix this problem since you are running an MBC. An MBC cannot target certain rpm sections. Once you turn the knob down, you reduce boost across the entire power curve. That is why most SoCal "tooners" spike the MBC. If they do not spike it, then it will not hold the requisite boost to redline.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 04:27 PM
  #37  
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Wow.. you're running a ****ton of timing up top..
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 04:32 PM
  #38  
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Way way too much timing up top for a 9, with 91 octane, with that turbo.

Still way too rich, even for 91. Still have the IPW step at 7k, which isn't helping.

Send me a PM, I will be happy to help out.

Last edited by razorlab; Aug 17, 2007 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 05:57 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DeiPro
At 35psi I hope you have a better than stock ignition lol! Whats that thing running now days Chris?
I've never taken it to the track at full tilt but she'll change lanes for in 2nd gear @ 35psi ~ 700awhp and these aren't the lil EVO gears, it'll do 40 in first and 80 in 2nd when you spin it to 8300

It took ~ 550awhp to get 125mph traps on pump gas, she's a bit heavy at 3775 with me in it.







/end hijack... sorry I'm proud of my baby
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Old Aug 17, 2007 | 09:22 PM
  #40  
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hijack...
you should be lovely ride
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 09:18 PM
  #41  
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nothing wrong leaning a little but timing is where its at man. look at what the ECU does first. it pulls timing not add fuel.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #42  
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Very Nice Chris! Do you know anyone in the market for a clean, professionally maintained 98 3000gt (its not turbo). Let me know, a mechanic friend of mine has one.
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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 05:03 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DeiPro
Very Nice Chris! Do you know anyone in the market for a clean, professionally maintained 98 3000gt (its not turbo). Let me know, a mechanic friend of mine has one.
will do

/end hijack
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