remove maf honeycomb (not a noob lol)
#16
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no sir.. if the screen was out... your car was running differently... it spins the air a certain way and uses that to determine how much fuel to add...
The MAF sensor like on a subaru.. that has two screws is a denso style MAF they dont need a screen... but when it is built in to a tube like ours it uses the honeycomb to measure air flow... if the screen isnt in place it looks like you are into the throttle and tries to compensate by adding fuel.. so cruising and stuff it should run fine but it will run rich as hell when idling
The MAF sensor like on a subaru.. that has two screws is a denso style MAF they dont need a screen... but when it is built in to a tube like ours it uses the honeycomb to measure air flow... if the screen isnt in place it looks like you are into the throttle and tries to compensate by adding fuel.. so cruising and stuff it should run fine but it will run rich as hell when idling
#17
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^^^ it doesn't "spin" the air at all, it just straightens it out. As long as your air filter doesn't mess with the incoming air you are fine.
Like I said above in my post, I've had NO SCREEN in my MAF for over a year and have no driveability issues at all. not at idle, not while crusing and deff. not @ WOT.
Like I said above in my post, I've had NO SCREEN in my MAF for over a year and have no driveability issues at all. not at idle, not while crusing and deff. not @ WOT.
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I take back what I said, all of sudden the next day my idle is stumbling. and afr's are 13-15. its probably the maf. my LTFT low is -11 LTFT mid -13 STFT idle is +3/-3. tried scaling the maf didnt really do too much, even tried to rescale my stock injector LOL still nothing. scaling both the injectors/maf just made STFT a constant negative or postive, long term didnt even change. Looking to swap maf's with a local, will post results.
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