direct boost control in action
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
I wanted to try the cat-back first by itself so I could isolate its effect on sound and power from the 100 cps cat, but the cat-back flange was too big for the 2.5" Random Tech HFC flange. Running the 100 cps cat and Stealth together definitely reduced exhaust pressure greatly. No significant increase in power, but there are zero knock counts at higher rpms now whereas before, I would routinely log 2-4 knock counts at higher rpm. I should be able to push the boost up a few more psi from 5000-7000 rpm and get another 20 whp. I still need to get around to logging/tweaking afr. May be able to eek out a few more HP that way too. I'll probably wait until I've bolted up my DP to start tweaking the settings.
The combo is somewhat louder than stock when the engine is cold, but as everything warms up, it gets pretty close to the stock sound levels, esp during cruise. My wife hasn't noticed yet, so its definitely pretty close to stock. WOT is of course pretty loud. :-)
The combo is somewhat louder than stock when the engine is cold, but as everything warms up, it gets pretty close to the stock sound levels, esp during cruise. My wife hasn't noticed yet, so its definitely pretty close to stock. WOT is of course pretty loud. :-)
how big of a hole in the boost line?
I assume the hole just allows for more boost to be bled off prior to the bcs taking over.
Thanks
well the wg actuator can be regulated in the evo 9. that's what i did today...
even with solenoid duty cylces at zero, i hv between 1 & 1.1 bar of boost (14.5-16). Before i had 0.8 bar...
other than that, i had installed previously a smaller pill in the hose going from the turbo to the wg (0.975), and hv no pill in the hose going from the turbo to the solenoid...
the reason why i "tightened" the actuator is to get more boost at high rpm's...
still didn't try to tune boost, but as i said it has around 15 psi with wgdc = zero.
the problem i had up until now is overshooting... even with wgdc and error correction zeroed out, when i open wot at 2000 rpm, boost goes to 21 psi @ 3500, then goes as low as 13 psi at 5000, then goes up to 15 psi at 5500 and holds till redline...
Any ideas plz??
Rgds+
even with solenoid duty cylces at zero, i hv between 1 & 1.1 bar of boost (14.5-16). Before i had 0.8 bar...
other than that, i had installed previously a smaller pill in the hose going from the turbo to the wg (0.975), and hv no pill in the hose going from the turbo to the solenoid...
the reason why i "tightened" the actuator is to get more boost at high rpm's...
still didn't try to tune boost, but as i said it has around 15 psi with wgdc = zero.
the problem i had up until now is overshooting... even with wgdc and error correction zeroed out, when i open wot at 2000 rpm, boost goes to 21 psi @ 3500, then goes as low as 13 psi at 5000, then goes up to 15 psi at 5500 and holds till redline...
Any ideas plz??
Rgds+
Evolving Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 178
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From: Italy
The actuator arm is adjustable. You can shorten it for more preload, but you also risk overboost in the mid range because you are effectively reducing the actuator's (and therefore the flapper's) range of travel. It does work though. I opted to add a secondary spring rather than shorten the arm to maintain the actuator travel.
The actuator arm is adjustable. You can shorten it for more preload, but you also risk overboost in the mid range because you are effectively reducing the actuator's (and therefore the flapper's) range of travel. It does work though. I opted to add a secondary spring rather than shorten the arm to maintain the actuator travel.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=305565
BTW, I fount it easier to attach the spring to the arm with the actuator arm attached since the spring really needs to sit on a tiny lip to the inside of the arm. I uses some wire looped in the end of the spring to attach it since pliers are a little big for the cramped space around the flapper.
BTW, I fount it easier to attach the spring to the arm with the actuator arm attached since the spring really needs to sit on a tiny lip to the inside of the arm. I uses some wire looped in the end of the spring to attach it since pliers are a little big for the cramped space around the flapper.
great results man keep it up.
hey j direct boost control is the way for any boost level. You have the gm 3 port, all you need now is the jdm map sensor to make it direct psi control. I'll hook your rom up like I did steven's. Once we get it dail in, its like that old saying "Set it & Forget it". I love ecu boost, even though I'm using target load instead of psi but I using Mrfred direct load (which is the shizzle). With the weather chaning alot with spring coming around, I always get the same boost. Boost error is doing its job LOL, with my mbc 27ish during the day 32 @ night.
hey j direct boost control is the way for any boost level. You have the gm 3 port, all you need now is the jdm map sensor to make it direct psi control. I'll hook your rom up like I did steven's. Once we get it dail in, its like that old saying "Set it & Forget it". I love ecu boost, even though I'm using target load instead of psi but I using Mrfred direct load (which is the shizzle). With the weather chaning alot with spring coming around, I always get the same boost. Boost error is doing its job LOL, with my mbc 27ish during the day 32 @ night.
Last edited by bnice01; Feb 13, 2008 at 06:09 AM.
as far as taper I know on stock boost control you will see it just like on a mbc you know the spring mod for me wasnt working because it pops off will i notice a smaller taper with direct boost control
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EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
There is a limit on how much boost the turbo can make at 7000 rpm. On a relatively stock exhaust, the limit is about 20 psi. With a TBE installed, I'd guess its around 22 psi (but haven't tried yet). So, the taper can be reduced, but it will always tend towards those limits at high rpm if your boost at lower rpm is higher, say like 24 psi.