Well set-up ECU-controlled boost
I'm still not a big fan of the open element air filters in a hot engine bay. I know they show more power on the dyno but it seems dangerous in real life. I found I could get more boost out of the car up top with the conical filter but the car runs better on the street with the stock box. What is your take on it?
I found some real interesting little things that made my AIT's come down dramatically, even under heavy motor loads.
I have seen as low as 7* above ambient consistently with data logs with the few mod's I have done. PM me if you would like to know, as I don't want to clog up this thread...
I saw someone who made a ram-air type of design that used the QTP exhaust cutout to switch between the underhood air source and the ram-air source. He also set it up so if the wipers were ever on, it automatically switched to the underhod source regardless of where the QTP switch was set to as a safety. Something along these lines could be designed and rigged rather easily I think.
I saw someone who made a ram-air type of design that used the QTP exhaust cutout to switch between the underhood air source and the ram-air source. He also set it up so if the wipers were ever on, it automatically switched to the underhod source regardless of where the QTP switch was set to as a safety. Something along these lines could be designed and rigged rather easily I think.
I don't think anyone ever answered Jeff's question.
I'd like to know this as well. I'm at 21psi on ACN91 with zero timing at torque peak. To run any more boost, I would need to run negative timing, which I understand to be a bad idea. I've been tempted to dial the boost back to 19 or 20psi and try more timing.
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From: wexford,pa
I had an issue such as yours where to stop 1-2 knock with 25psi, I had to retard timing to much, But i had an aggresive MIVEC map.
I was able to have best of both worlds, more timing and more boost by adjusting my MIVEC.
my advice is increase your boost/ leave timing alone and dial back your MIVEC.
I was able to have best of both worlds, more timing and more boost by adjusting my MIVEC.
my advice is increase your boost/ leave timing alone and dial back your MIVEC.
I'm not sure if interforum linking is 'ok', so please let me know if I need to remove this...
Here is the connector for the stock BCS (replace xx with tt, copy, paste)
hxxp://www.norcalevo.net/forum/index.php/topic,23834.0.html
I think by aircon he is referring to air conditioning... I'll have to look at my car when I get out of work. He says its on the pressure connector, and should be on the evo as well. It also says that GST motorsports started molding their own.
If I can't find/order that part for an Evo I'm just going to hack my stock BCS to glorious pieces
copy of the images here: http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/rand...ess_switch.JPG
I called GST motorsports but they haven't gotten back to me yet about their custom molded plug.
The plug does exist on our evos, and to the best of my ability to see those pictures it looks to have the same part number as the classic one. The part number reads like this:
C029A
7H05
(more pics here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...&postcount=253 )
Last edited by fostytou; Apr 6, 2008 at 12:41 AM.
Here is the part from mitsuparts: http://www.mitsubishiparts.net/cart/?id=571&pn=MR250683
$31 + 3 shipping I think I'm going to look and see if I can pull on off of an old air conditioning line that I have, if not I'll order that one.
Here is where you can find the part on an evo... similar location on other cars:
Last edited by fostytou; Mar 27, 2008 at 08:18 PM.
There are sensors out there that are designed to work right. I just don't know if any are available that are designed specifically for cars. We use fast responding stuff that gets installed in thermowells all the time at the nuke plant. The thermowell helps to transfer the actual sample temperature and isolate the sensor from the heat mass of the piping. Problem is, the sensors are a couple of thousand dollars each. You might be able to find turbine inlet temperature sensors (they're thermocouples) that are designed for measuring the temperature just after the combustion chamber on gas turbines (jet engines). Those are pretty responsive.
Engine electronics are the bottom of the barrel when it comes to instrumentation.
Anyway, did some more tuning, fixed my overboost on spool problem, now I'm getting oscillations. 6th gear, starting around 2500 RPM, floor it and let boost reach steady state, then I start seeing oscillations, about 2-3 psi up and down. I can think of three ways to fix this:
1) Increase the WGDC correction interval (mine's at 1) to slow down the response time and damp out the oscillations.
2) Decrease the slope of the TBEC table.
3) Zero out the first +0.4 and -0.4 cells in the TBEC table to give it a wider deadband.
I chose #3, but the test will have to wait until tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.
Engine electronics are the bottom of the barrel when it comes to instrumentation.
Anyway, did some more tuning, fixed my overboost on spool problem, now I'm getting oscillations. 6th gear, starting around 2500 RPM, floor it and let boost reach steady state, then I start seeing oscillations, about 2-3 psi up and down. I can think of three ways to fix this:
1) Increase the WGDC correction interval (mine's at 1) to slow down the response time and damp out the oscillations.
2) Decrease the slope of the TBEC table.
3) Zero out the first +0.4 and -0.4 cells in the TBEC table to give it a wider deadband.
I chose #3, but the test will have to wait until tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.
I found something odd.
when the water temperature was below Optimal temperature. ECU boost control system didn't fucntion even though I set the temperature for full boost control at just 4 degree.
It usually follws WGDC table.
However, I noticed very often that it maintained WGDC at 100 and made my car overshoot beyond 33 psi... hitting fuel cut after that. This happens when I start the car and give a WOT like in 3 mintues before the engine gets fully warmed up.
Has anyone experienced this?
when the water temperature was below Optimal temperature. ECU boost control system didn't fucntion even though I set the temperature for full boost control at just 4 degree.
It usually follws WGDC table.
However, I noticed very often that it maintained WGDC at 100 and made my car overshoot beyond 33 psi... hitting fuel cut after that. This happens when I start the car and give a WOT like in 3 mintues before the engine gets fully warmed up.
Has anyone experienced this?
Last edited by taenaive; Apr 1, 2008 at 09:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,092
Likes: 1,090
From: Mid-Hudson, NY
I found something odd.
when the water temperature was below Optimal temperature. ECU boost control system didn't fucntion even though I set the temperature for full boost control at just 4 degree.
It usually follws WGDC table.
However, I noticed very often that it maintained WGDC at 100 and made my car overshoot beyond 33 psi... hitting fuel cut after that. This happens when I start the car and give a WOT like in 3 mintues before the engine gets fully warmed up.
Has anyone experienced this?
when the water temperature was below Optimal temperature. ECU boost control system didn't fucntion even though I set the temperature for full boost control at just 4 degree.
It usually follws WGDC table.
However, I noticed very often that it maintained WGDC at 100 and made my car overshoot beyond 33 psi... hitting fuel cut after that. This happens when I start the car and give a WOT like in 3 mintues before the engine gets fully warmed up.
Has anyone experienced this?
use this instead:
<table name="Max WGDC vs Coolant Temp" category="Turbo" address="56d2" type="2D" level="1" scaling="WGDuty">
<table name="Coolant Temp" address="5eae" type="Y Axis" elements="8" scaling="Temp"/>
</table>
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alan678
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
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Mar 16, 2008 01:19 PM
