Stock ECU and COP
I am presently using Spark Tech's M&W Pro-12 COP with the stock ECU. I've made some observations:
- If you have a new build, turbo setup, etc., tune with the factory ignition first. FWIW, the M&W unit will give you lots of grief if the tune isn't already close to spot on.
- With my setup, the factory ignition will misfire at 25 psi with BR8ES at 0.028". When this happens, the misfire is manifested as knock. With the COP, the misfire is gone, and knock count goes to "0".
- I've been fiddling with the ignition map for some time, but there is still a bit of residual misfire at light load, throttle tip-in. For whatever reason, this seemed to have improved slightly when I recently revamped my ISCV lookup table (see:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3 / Begin at post #206 and go from there).
- I am still running this setup in regular mode. I am about to switch it to 'high-power' mode and observe any difference. Another user tells me it helped this a bit for him, we'll see what it does for me.
- I am at a loss as to why this setup would perform any differently with a standalone (no part throttle fussiness), but apparently, there is a difference.
- If you have a new build, turbo setup, etc., tune with the factory ignition first. FWIW, the M&W unit will give you lots of grief if the tune isn't already close to spot on.
- With my setup, the factory ignition will misfire at 25 psi with BR8ES at 0.028". When this happens, the misfire is manifested as knock. With the COP, the misfire is gone, and knock count goes to "0".
- I've been fiddling with the ignition map for some time, but there is still a bit of residual misfire at light load, throttle tip-in. For whatever reason, this seemed to have improved slightly when I recently revamped my ISCV lookup table (see:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3 / Begin at post #206 and go from there).
- I am still running this setup in regular mode. I am about to switch it to 'high-power' mode and observe any difference. Another user tells me it helped this a bit for him, we'll see what it does for me.
- I am at a loss as to why this setup would perform any differently with a standalone (no part throttle fussiness), but apparently, there is a difference.
- I've been fiddling with the ignition map for some time, but there is still a bit of residual misfire at light load, throttle tip-in. For whatever reason, this seemed to have improved slightly when I recently revamped my ISCV lookup table (see:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3 / Begin at post #206 and go from there).
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3 / Begin at post #206 and go from there).
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3
dan l,
Are you using the Dynatek ARC-2 with the montero coils? I had installed one months ago but kept getting really nasty misfires at cruise. It was fine at WOT.
One day while driving around town it totally freaked out and the car started backfiring and spitting fireballs at cruise down the street. I took it off and haven't thought about it since.
This is the setup I had:
Are you using the Dynatek ARC-2 with the montero coils? I had installed one months ago but kept getting really nasty misfires at cruise. It was fine at WOT.
One day while driving around town it totally freaked out and the car started backfiring and spitting fireballs at cruise down the street. I took it off and haven't thought about it since.
This is the setup I had:
My friend ran my unit on his EVO 8 and had no complaints. If you want to sell your ARC-2 PM me.
Has anyone seen coil dwell as a possible setting in any of the roms that have been dissassembled?
Would be great if we could get full control of coil dwell as it may help to reduce some of these problems associated with the COP set-ups.
Mitch
Would be great if we could get full control of coil dwell as it may help to reduce some of these problems associated with the COP set-ups.
Mitch
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
I was just thinking about this a few days ago. Haven't tried to look yet because of other disassembly stuff keeping me busy. Bez may have it in one of his disassemblies though.
Coil dwell time DOES matter if running the stock ignition and non stock coils (like if you were to wire up DSM coils into an evo, you'd need to adjust dwell or you could run into problems).
Coil dwell does not matter once your running a COP. The reason being is that the stock output from the ignition is simply a trigger to the COP system. Once the ignition is triggered the COP fires instantly and with much LESS duration than an inductive ignition. What matters when running a COP is the turns ratio of the coil and its ability to withstand extremely high primary and secondary voltages before breaking down.
Coil dwell time DOES matter if running the stock ignition and non stock coils (like if you were to wire up DSM coils into an evo, you'd need to adjust dwell or you could run into problems).
Coil dwell time DOES matter if running the stock ignition and non stock coils (like if you were to wire up DSM coils into an evo, you'd need to adjust dwell or you could run into problems).
Mitch
I am presently using Spark Tech's M&W Pro-12 COP with the stock ECU. I've made some observations:
- If you have a new build, turbo setup, etc., tune with the factory ignition first. FWIW, the M&W unit will give you lots of grief if the tune isn't already close to spot on.
- With my setup, the factory ignition will misfire at 25 psi with BR8ES at 0.028". When this happens, the misfire is manifested as knock. With the COP, the misfire is gone, and knock count goes to "0".
- I've been fiddling with the ignition map for some time, but there is still a bit of residual misfire at light load, throttle tip-in. For whatever reason, this seemed to have improved slightly when I recently revamped my ISCV lookup table (see:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3 / Begin at post #206 and go from there).
- I am still running this setup in regular mode. I am about to switch it to 'high-power' mode and observe any difference. Another user tells me it helped this a bit for him, we'll see what it does for me.
- I am at a loss as to why this setup would perform any differently with a standalone (no part throttle fussiness), but apparently, there is a difference.
- If you have a new build, turbo setup, etc., tune with the factory ignition first. FWIW, the M&W unit will give you lots of grief if the tune isn't already close to spot on.
- With my setup, the factory ignition will misfire at 25 psi with BR8ES at 0.028". When this happens, the misfire is manifested as knock. With the COP, the misfire is gone, and knock count goes to "0".
- I've been fiddling with the ignition map for some time, but there is still a bit of residual misfire at light load, throttle tip-in. For whatever reason, this seemed to have improved slightly when I recently revamped my ISCV lookup table (see:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=226466&page=3 / Begin at post #206 and go from there).
- I am still running this setup in regular mode. I am about to switch it to 'high-power' mode and observe any difference. Another user tells me it helped this a bit for him, we'll see what it does for me.
- I am at a loss as to why this setup would perform any differently with a standalone (no part throttle fussiness), but apparently, there is a difference.
Our sparktech pro-12 system was revised and returned three times. It has been tested on multiple cammed Evo's and exhibits misfires on either car.
Sparktech claims to be working on a sheilded trigger wires update, but I am not convinced it will change anything.
If you think you have smaller misfires at low load. LOL, I can't wait until you try single spark. The car becomes hardly driveable.
The system does not spark at the correct time, period.
I'll call them up.
They seemed extremely good to work with (albeit extremely busy). I had to retrofit the system onto my bastard child oddly wired 90 DSM and they helped me out a lot. Like I said, my friend tried my unit on his evo and he liked it. I would like to pick up one for my daily driver evo.
Also did you get OEM mitsu montero coils? Just trying to troubleshoot your car. If you did not get OEM coils I would start there personally. If you want, you can ship me your unit and I'll install it on my car (simple plug and play) and see if it exhibits any problems for me. It might be simpler and cheaper than sending it out to Dynatek. I can push it to a real world 30psi.
Also what plugs and/or gap were you running. Too much gap can damage any CDI and cause driveability issues. I would stick to 30-32 thousandths on the gold ole' BPR8es or BPR9ES plugs. I only tried 36 thousandths to push the unit.
Also route the dyntek harness like in the instructions to keep it away from noisey items. An induced EMI will trigger the CDI to fire at the wrong time and cause problems when driving.
Hope this helps.
Also did you get OEM mitsu montero coils? Just trying to troubleshoot your car. If you did not get OEM coils I would start there personally. If you want, you can ship me your unit and I'll install it on my car (simple plug and play) and see if it exhibits any problems for me. It might be simpler and cheaper than sending it out to Dynatek. I can push it to a real world 30psi.
Also what plugs and/or gap were you running. Too much gap can damage any CDI and cause driveability issues. I would stick to 30-32 thousandths on the gold ole' BPR8es or BPR9ES plugs. I only tried 36 thousandths to push the unit.
Also route the dyntek harness like in the instructions to keep it away from noisey items. An induced EMI will trigger the CDI to fire at the wrong time and cause problems when driving.
Hope this helps.
They seemed extremely good to work with (albeit extremely busy). I had to retrofit the system onto my bastard child oddly wired 90 DSM and they helped me out a lot. Like I said, my friend tried my unit on his evo and he liked it. I would like to pick up one for my daily driver evo.
Also did you get OEM mitsu montero coils? Just trying to troubleshoot your car. If you did not get OEM coils I would start there personally. If you want, you can ship me your unit and I'll install it on my car (simple plug and play) and see if it exhibits any problems for me. It might be simpler and cheaper than sending it out to Dynatek. I can push it to a real world 30psi.
Also what plugs and/or gap were you running. Too much gap can damage any CDI and cause driveability issues. I would stick to 30-32 thousandths on the gold ole' BPR8es or BPR9ES plugs. I only tried 36 thousandths to push the unit.
Also route the dyntek harness like in the instructions to keep it away from noisey items. An induced EMI will trigger the CDI to fire at the wrong time and cause problems when driving.
Hope this helps.
Also did you get OEM mitsu montero coils? Just trying to troubleshoot your car. If you did not get OEM coils I would start there personally. If you want, you can ship me your unit and I'll install it on my car (simple plug and play) and see if it exhibits any problems for me. It might be simpler and cheaper than sending it out to Dynatek. I can push it to a real world 30psi.
Also what plugs and/or gap were you running. Too much gap can damage any CDI and cause driveability issues. I would stick to 30-32 thousandths on the gold ole' BPR8es or BPR9ES plugs. I only tried 36 thousandths to push the unit.
Also route the dyntek harness like in the instructions to keep it away from noisey items. An induced EMI will trigger the CDI to fire at the wrong time and cause problems when driving.
Hope this helps.
I was using ngk iridiums gapped at .025. Maybe the box doesn't like iridiums?
I recently went back to the BR8ES's
Thanks for the tips
