DV flutter = knock?
^seriously....but then again a new turbo would be nice 
ive checked all the hoses, and theyre working properly. I think its just not enough pressure to keep the valve shut.

ive checked all the hoses, and theyre working properly. I think its just not enough pressure to keep the valve shut.

a little spike of 3 knock should just pull timing at that area and be fine once it clears up. If you have 3 counts of knock through the whole rev range the tune needs to be attended to.
As far as all these little knock spikes... you will drive yourself crazy tending to them. The car sees noise all the time and if you try to clean it all up, espically the random stuff you are going to go insane.
I've been trying to see what makes the car knock now that I have the CEL light on. You would be amazed at what can cause quick 1-3 knock counts. Totally stupid stuff like running over a rock in the road, driving through a sandy area with little pebbles hitting control arms, etc. Little tiny jabs of the throttle at specific throttle openings, WOT and catching air off things in the street
, etc etcI personally do not concern myself with little sporadic 1-3 knock count blips. Now, knock that blips and sustains is something to look into, even more so if it's not random.
Last edited by razorlab; Apr 10, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
So would something like a Tomie or Works dv work better because its less likely to crack open at very low boost. Mine flutters something in 5th or 6th then the car bucks (compressor surge). I would really love to remedity the problem as its somewhat annoying. I was told by one of the WORKS guy their diverter valve fixes this problem but I want to see others opinions on this.
Stock accordian one. The only intake mods I have are the BMC drop-in and the Rexspeed CF snorkel. Maybe I have a boost leak? My car just turned 30k miles so the stock DV shouldn't be worn out yet I don't think.
The Greddy 'Type RS' blow-off valve has NO compressor surge issues when using the large spring (it comes with a small AND large spring installed so you need to remove the small spring) and can hold 30psi like a champ.

Does anyone else remember this?
I actually bench tested this setup and there is NOTHING wrong with it what-so-ever. What would be bad about it? It doesn't compressor surge and it holds boost. Thats all its supposed to do 
Here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...1&postcount=94

Here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...1&postcount=94
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Apr 11, 2008 at 09:16 AM.
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I have been trying to get rid of my partial boost ( > .5bar) to full boost knock, and noticed that nothing i did to the timing table would get rid of it. I have already made room around all my heat shields, and made a nice open area for the DP to sit, and am still getting some kind of knock when i go from partial to full boost.
Today (and last night) i was noticing that the Diverter Valve will flutter at any level of boost from 0-.5 bar. Then i tried making it flutter over and over, and the knock light would turn and i would get 1-3 counts of knock on occasion. I havent been able to consistantly re-produce the knock, and im thinking this might be why.
has anyone else had this happen? too much flutter will cause 1-3 counts of knock?
Today (and last night) i was noticing that the Diverter Valve will flutter at any level of boost from 0-.5 bar. Then i tried making it flutter over and over, and the knock light would turn and i would get 1-3 counts of knock on occasion. I havent been able to consistantly re-produce the knock, and im thinking this might be why.
has anyone else had this happen? too much flutter will cause 1-3 counts of knock?
Kinda confused though because I always heard that the stock Evo MR DV was very good and didn't need to be replaced.
1* over the whole rev range? If that is the case, then you have other issues. 
a little spike of 3 knock should just pull timing at that area and be fine once it clears up. If you have 3 counts of knock through the whole rev range the tune needs to be attended to.
As far as all these little knock spikes... you will drive yourself crazy tending to them. The car sees noise all the time and if you try to clean it all up, espically the random stuff you are going to go insane.
I've been trying to see what makes the car knock now that I have the CEL light on. You would be amazed at what can cause quick 1-3 knock counts. Totally stupid stuff like running over a rock in the road, driving through a sandy area with little pebbles hitting control arms, etc. Little tiny jabs of the throttle at specific throttle openings, WOT and catching air off things in the street
, etc etc
I personally do not concern myself with little sporadic 1-3 knock count blips. Now, knock that blips and sustains is something to look into, even more so if it's not random.

a little spike of 3 knock should just pull timing at that area and be fine once it clears up. If you have 3 counts of knock through the whole rev range the tune needs to be attended to.
As far as all these little knock spikes... you will drive yourself crazy tending to them. The car sees noise all the time and if you try to clean it all up, espically the random stuff you are going to go insane.
I've been trying to see what makes the car knock now that I have the CEL light on. You would be amazed at what can cause quick 1-3 knock counts. Totally stupid stuff like running over a rock in the road, driving through a sandy area with little pebbles hitting control arms, etc. Little tiny jabs of the throttle at specific throttle openings, WOT and catching air off things in the street
, etc etcI personally do not concern myself with little sporadic 1-3 knock count blips. Now, knock that blips and sustains is something to look into, even more so if it's not random.







