dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

we tuned it to 1.9 bars..thats about 29 psi..i have zero counts of knock..but i believe the car is on the lean side (0.84 Lambda)..and no matter how much fuel we are adding it is not richining out...

as long as its not detonating..does that mean i am safe? btw we are using an old MoteC lambda sensor mounted at the tip of the muffler.

here is my mod list:
BR HTA35R (0.7 A/R) Cast Kit
BR Race Intercooler
BR Intercooler pipes
BR 1000cc Injectors
BR double pumper
BR 3” Downpipe
Blitz Nurspec R Catback (freakin loud)
Cosworth Mivec Race Head (+1mm oversize valves)
Cosworth M3 Mivec cams
Cosworth Springs and retainers
AMS VSR Intake Mani
Agency Power Fuel Rail
HKS Fuel Pressure Regulater
HKS Suction kit (custom pipe)
Ralli Art Thermostat
ARP head studs
Exedy twin plate SD
STOCK ECU
PUMP GAS 94 oct

i will get my map as well as the latest logs for you guys to look at...
but my main question remains..does it mean my car is running safely if i am not detonating??

thanks in advance..

please keep in mind i am new to all this tuning..thus i will retrieve any info you guys require

Wicked E

iTrader: (26)

Is there any way for you to get a wideband and weld a bung in your exhaust?

-E

dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

i already got my innovate wideband DB LC1 kit installed yesterday..i followed all the instrustions..i grounded the wires properly...yet it is not reading..i think it is one of those faulty units..
it stays at 15.1 AFR and the blinker light..Blinks constantly then stops for second..then resumes..
i.e. Blink Blink------Blink Blink------Blink Blink------etc. (while the reading is stuck at 15.1)

thanks E for your participation in this thread.

Wicked E

iTrader: (26)

Those darn widebands are finicky for grounding issues... I would keep trying to ground it in various areas till you get it to work...

I wished I could help you more but until I see maps/logs or know its a real AFR reading I can't do much...

Cheers-
E

Import Junky

iTrader: (7)

good luck with it. god bless the internet for things like this. always used for so much bad stuff but situations like this can make the internet a godsend.

fugiwara

iTrader: (124)

My suggestion for you is, have a tuner tune it for you, e-flash only cost 150dollars, e 4ws is the one tuned my car, you spent so much money already might as well spend 150 get it tuned properly. 4ws will custom tune your car, until it's perfect, and then you can learn from him, see how he did it.

dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

believe me its not about the money...
as a matter of fact i have already contacted 4WS...he offered to tune my car..i am sending him the logs and map as soon as i get back home..as i dont have the laptop with me.

yes...god bless the internet for times like this.

thanks all guys...i will definately play around with the grounding of the gauge until it works.

evo4mad

iTrader: (4)

yeah check the innovate forums there is a number of us had the same issues. also is 29PSI within the efficiency range of your turbo? eventually the air will get so hot, no matter how perfect your AFR is, that your EGTs will get hotter, and you will eventually get detonation and preignition (both sensed by the knock sensor). I sure hope you dont have a faulty knock sensor.. make sure you datalog with evoscan the values such as knock voltage to ensure you are getting at least a minimum noise line from your knock sensor.

dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

when i raised the boost from 25psi to 29 psi...the knock increased by a good margin...thus i doubt i have a faulty knock sensor..we added fuel and managed to get the knock down to zero except at the begining of spool i have 1 count of knock which i am really not worried about

dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

ok guys...i got the map and the log...how do i give you access to them?

dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

they are a .hex file and an xcell file

evo4mad

iTrader: (4)

if you already understand that by adding fuel you are cooling the cylinder enough to eliminate knock, then you are running safe. but obviously your power will be suffering big time by adding all that fuel, you may make more power by running less boost, and running a little leaner, with perhaps a little more timing. But thats the whole tuning game, you and your tuner will already know that. Nothing much we can do here to help with that, thats just more time on a dyno to get more power.
Also if you dont have your power curve in your logs theres not much point in uploading them, unless you also provide your dyno graphs also, before and after. I guess all you are asking is for a sanity check on what your tuner is telling you. So I guess short answer is, yes, if you have no knock then you are running safe. but possibly at the expense of more power to be made.

spdracr

iTrader: (2)

y dont you guys read the whole OP before you say **** he is running a HTA35r its is NOT going to be running out of breath and blowing hot air. he is worried about being too lean so how can he be running rich when his lamba is like .84 so damn annoying reading posts that make no sense if you read the OP

dxbevo9

iTrader: (6)

bro...dont worry about the numbers...this is not my final tune..this is just a safe tune to get my car running until the tuner flies in town.