i have some questions...


what i would like to do is switch from my current setup which is an in-cabin hallman, to Ecu controlled boost,

now i wanted to get a perrin BCS and it says to remove all restrictors, now every write-up i have read requires the restrictors pills, so i wanted to ask has anyone had any experience with this solenoid and i wanted to know how much can the stock ecu compensate for weather and such

i know that alot of EBC's solve for weather, cause it can get very cold at night around me and then very hot in the day...is the ecu method set and forget and it will make the set PSI happen like an EBC or no

sorry if these r a little redundent, i usually stick to MBC's when i tune, this would be my first venture into EBC

 

ECU-based direct boost control is "set it and forget it" once its dialed in. A lot can be done with the stock BCS. Running without pills would require a very high flow BCS and could represent a fairly substantial boost leak when the BCS is wide open.

 

I'm running the Perrin BCS with no pills. Works fine.

 

What other solenoids are there aside from the Perrin? Are there other more effective/efficient solenoids?

 

GM 3-Port FTW!

 

touringbubble can i just run that solenoid and then tune my boost within ecuflash or is there more involved, and im sorry if im asking toomuch but i havnt even really playued with ecuboost so what does each table DO/how does it work?

 

What boost are you looking to achieve? I have heard that the stock solenoid can boost effectively up to 24psi w/ the proper # restrictor pill.

ECU boost requires editing your xml files, installing a JDM Map sensor(to log boost), and do lots of research on how to properly tune the boost. It can be alot of work to get it right.

My Greddy EBC works fine for me. 24.5-25psi peak, then tapers to about 21psi by redline.

 

^^ Which Greddy eBC do you have?

 

id like to run about 24-25 and amak i know that the stock solenoid can do that, but obviously the stock solenoid didnt need a jdm map sensor to achieve its boost control im just wondering if its possible to go a route with out that, but i have no problem accepting it an going for it i just wanted an explanation of what the tables do / control

 

Actually you don't have to use the JDM map to use an aftermarket solenoid with the stock ECU, the system is still correctable and loggable via 2byte load. Also, I dont have any pills, I have straight lines and the AEM boost solenoid w/inline 1w10ohm resistor. Also to combat solenoid oscilation of corrective cycles my setup is alot more open loop than closed loop. My car doesnt start adding duty until somewhere above 6K rpms. The corrective loop can remove duty at any rpm though.

My wastegate duty is 72% till it starts raising to adjust for the taper above 6K. I tried different methods and this made for the smoothest boost and eliminated spikes and dips during spoolup, it spools much smoother this way. My 2byte load line is very smooth, even smoother than the boost. Maybe spool time is a little reduced since it doesnt spool at 100% duty but it makes it so much easier to tune and the car performs better with a more natural curve, if I want another psi or 2 I change all my 72's to 75 and turn off correction. On a 60F day/night my car starts at 25psi and holds 23.5 through the middle and tapers to 20 at 7K.. and 17.5 by 7800. I could increase the duty more to offset the taper more but the car makes better power the way it is. Adjusting the duty cycle constantly makes boost more erratic.

Also I've tried just about every boost control method available, including MBC, removal of sol pill, changing of sol pill, changing of turbo pill, no pills, different solenoids with pills and without pills. This method and the Truboost gauge are very good at keeping the boost variance between gears minimal. It has about 1.5 psi of weather variance but my ignition / fuel are properly tuned in all the cells it runs in.

 

I'll share with you my experience using the GM BCS. I first had it setup for use without the JDM MAP sensor so it was load-based boost control and let me tell you what a royal PITA that was. Since it sounds like you've never done anything of the sort before expect to spend a good 2-3 hours getting your boost dialed in. I was really pissed and pretty much hated that setup b/c it was inconsistent and never worked right so I then got the Evo X MAP sensor (same as JDM) and direct-boost controlled which besides for my laptop not being happy with me worked much better. Problem is, it still takes a few hours to get setup properly and I've invested around $200 into controlling my boost when my $38 Joe P. MBC was working just fine. If I were to do it all over again and start from scratch I'd get another MBC and be done with it. With that said, my car is spooling a bit faster and tapering less with the GM BCS than it was with the MBC.

 

With the right boost hose line setup, the stock solenoid is good for at least 28 psi, probably more.

 

* Edit - forgot that this was fixed and I'm not running the fix. This stuff moves to fast, if you blink your outdated. (not the first time I've done the foot to mouth trick)

mrfred, I agree about the higher flow BCS's essentially being a bleed. I just couldnt get consistant result accross the gears with with a pill / stock solenoid setup. I could dial in a perfect 4th gear boost profile and boost would be substantially higher in 6th gear. Also if I went WOT at mid rpm it would overboost as well, even with correction (which often times overcorrects). I'm sure if you spend enough time it can be dialed in better.

I'm really interested in the map averaging but at the same time I've found running a set duty cycle on a higher flowing BCS eliminates much of the issue and requires very little correction although it's not as efficient as far as boost leakage goes.

Also, For higher WHP cars (cars that spin 2nd or 3rd) more variance between gears may be a good thing since it's like built in traction control. When we tune higher whp boosted Honda's we almost always have to run gear dependant boost control for traction control.

 

I keep preaching it, but little listen... to say goodbye to the boost overshoot problems, just zero out the "Max Total Upward WGDC Correction vs TPS" table and tune the "Turbo Boost Error Correction" correctly. (as in add back in all the additive correction and then some, so that it actually brings back boost to target BWGDC in an event of boost being pulled)

Trust me, it's a *huge* piece of progress in the ecu-boost puzzle.

 

Greddy Profec-b Spec II