High RPM works a lot better than low RPM. It moves a lot more air a lot quicker and gives you more time to calibrate. The only reason it may not work is if you experience the 'throttle hang' phenomenon lifting from a higher RPM. If so, just tap the clutch pedal again. I would be worried if you had enough time for the air to clear and calibrate from just 2500 RPM.

A quick check of knowing if it worked is to see what it is reading at idle. If you are at 14.7:1, then it worked.


Eric

 

well my understanding of "calibrating while NOT in free air" is that it will cause the WB to read richer than stoich the futher from stoich its reading. thus the error @ 14.7:1 will be negligible...

anyways ill do a high rpm one and log IPW to see

 

Yes, I believe you are correct. That's why I was just stating a 'quick' check to see if your calibration was off. If it was calibrated in exhaust gas, you would notice the change even at stoich conditions.

Either way, glad you are finally calibrating it this way. It's a very easy method and very quick, in case you ever have to do it again.


Eric

 

Yeah thanks Eric - I did try this in the past, but I still have IPW so I thought it was invalid..

Anyways must have been a dodgey fuel cut or sumthing

 

So, did you end up keeping the LC1 or did you get the ZT2?

 

kept the LC1... its behaving at the moment...

 

Did they send you a replacement?

 

No I didn't RMA mine.

The only problem I had with mine is the serial connection. I am going to cut of the 2.5mm jack and replace both ends with Mini DIN connectors... That way I will get a good connection AND it wont overwrite the RAM when plugging it in.

 

How odd that i found this thread. I just got back from trying to log and lo-and-behold my LC1 died. It tells me that i am on a custom setting when connecting with LM programer. I reset it to gasoline, go out and do a recal, i get ambigous afr readings. Connect with LM programmer and its at custom again. Reset to gasoline, go out, recal, ambigous readings again. For a while there i was having to recal everytime i would go out and log. Like as soon as the car shuts off, the WB looses calibration. Now i cant even get it to calibrate correctly no matter what i do.....

 

how r you doing the recalibration?

also when connecting to the LC1 you arn't plugging in the 2.5mm serial connector while the LC1 is powered are you?

 

Just my 0.02!

I ran into a situation where the serial cable was causing the sensor to be out of calibration. My quick fix was to connect the serial cable to the computer before turning the key to the On position.

In all honesty, the sensor has been more than a year on the car and ran no major issues. With the exception of the one mentioned. In top of that, it was very consistant to the one on the dyno I go to.

 

Doing a recal by going down hill around 3000 rpm in 5th while off the gas for the "free air" cal. My serial connection (usb to serial) is already connected to my computer before the car is turned on. Ive gone through this many times before. This time it doesn't seem to work which makes me think that it is truly dead at this point. Im gonna try again tomorrow if i get a chance. But i will switch to a PLX or Zeitronix if i cant get it to work again.

 

Yes you MUST NOT connect the serial cable while the unit is POWERED.

When you plug in the 2.55mm jack it shorts out the unit causing it to reset its settings.

Hence why I want to cut that ****ty connector off and use a 3pole mini-din connector instead...

 

^ have you logged IPW while doing this overrun-calibration?

 

I didnt. Car is always off before i plug in my connections.