thinking about ditching my LC1
I'm probably the guy he knows with an LC-1. 
And now that I'm calibrating it with the decel trick instead of pulling the sensor out of the exhaust, life with it has been pretty good.
I will point out, though, that is extremely sensitive to power and ground (as others have mentioned). I have power coming off the lighter right now, and with a (relatively low power draw) tablet plugged in there with an AC converter, the LC1 completely freaks out.
Unplug it, reboot the LC1, and life is happy again. I'll be moving to a relayed source directly off the battery soon, which should eliminate the problem entirely.
And now that I'm calibrating it with the decel trick instead of pulling the sensor out of the exhaust, life with it has been pretty good.I will point out, though, that is extremely sensitive to power and ground (as others have mentioned). I have power coming off the lighter right now, and with a (relatively low power draw) tablet plugged in there with an AC converter, the LC1 completely freaks out.
Unplug it, reboot the LC1, and life is happy again. I'll be moving to a relayed source directly off the battery soon, which should eliminate the problem entirely.
I've owned both and have no issues with the ZT2 but the LC-1 was a constant headache. The LC-1's have nearly equal good/bad results from owners. The ZT2's seemed to be far better in the consistency category.
Zeitronix is made in the USA by an engineer from the medical instrumentation field. Its no coincidence that it works flawlessly with full circuitry protection, making it virtually bulletproof.
They replaced and upgraded my LC1 with the 6 wire version. They said I toasted the processor. Happened right after clearing a SES code but don't see any relationship since the serial cable wasn't in. Just died after two years I guess.
As for LC1 all I can say is wiring it to perform right is alot of work. Esp when used with OBII on laptop and analogs, and on an evo. Evo ECU ground does not go to block (lowest point near alternator), it's grounded in series from center console to first battery bond. I get about 0.4 ohms here to block.
When using a laptop through OBDII while powering inverter through the cig lighter plug the terminals on the lighter will spike resistance under vibration which is supposedly bad loading a voltage on the ECU and laptop (differential between ECU to laptop then to LC1).
Also, if using analogs and the heater is grounded at the same LC1 syst ground point, a voltage spike (starter, stereo, lights, etc) can send a cal signal.
Like probably all of there products, not a plug and play device, more like a tempermental project requiring an assload of setup. But when you got everything right and on line it's fairly troublefree and you have some very useful logging data and tools.
As for LC1 all I can say is wiring it to perform right is alot of work. Esp when used with OBII on laptop and analogs, and on an evo. Evo ECU ground does not go to block (lowest point near alternator), it's grounded in series from center console to first battery bond. I get about 0.4 ohms here to block.
When using a laptop through OBDII while powering inverter through the cig lighter plug the terminals on the lighter will spike resistance under vibration which is supposedly bad loading a voltage on the ECU and laptop (differential between ECU to laptop then to LC1).
Also, if using analogs and the heater is grounded at the same LC1 syst ground point, a voltage spike (starter, stereo, lights, etc) can send a cal signal.
Like probably all of there products, not a plug and play device, more like a tempermental project requiring an assload of setup. But when you got everything right and on line it's fairly troublefree and you have some very useful logging data and tools.
Mine has also been working great for several months. I did have a problem with calibration when I had it for a couple days but that was my fault. After I redid the initial calibration everything has been working great since then.
Yeah, the Zeitronix certainly wins the 'simplicity' and 'user friendly battle vs. teh LC-1 but both do their jobs equally when the LC-1 is setup and working consistently. I favor the ZT-2 but I can't say that the LC-1 does a poor job (when the bugs are ironed out).
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Same problems here with the LC-1... would lose calibration, then would sometimes go nutz scrolling through numbers like crazy, and once I calibrated, it would go away. I've gone through two LC-1's. Grrr. Gonna send them both back to Innovate.
If I recall I had everything but the heater ground grounded to one of the Autronic sensor grounds. I had the analog out to the Autronic which worked fine whenever the LC-1 was working.
My question about the Zeitronix is, is the analog out configurable via software? For example, with the LC-1 to work with Autronic I would set 10 AFR = 0 volts and 20 AFR = 2.5 volts. Can you do this with the Zeitronix?
I'm considering forgetting about these rink a dink permanent install widebands. Might go in with a couple friends on buying an Autronic wideband. I've never once found a use for a permanent install wideband when I'm not tuning.
If I recall I had everything but the heater ground grounded to one of the Autronic sensor grounds. I had the analog out to the Autronic which worked fine whenever the LC-1 was working.
My question about the Zeitronix is, is the analog out configurable via software? For example, with the LC-1 to work with Autronic I would set 10 AFR = 0 volts and 20 AFR = 2.5 volts. Can you do this with the Zeitronix?
I'm considering forgetting about these rink a dink permanent install widebands. Might go in with a couple friends on buying an Autronic wideband. I've never once found a use for a permanent install wideband when I'm not tuning.
Same problems here with the LC-1... would lose calibration, then would sometimes go nutz scrolling through numbers like crazy, and once I calibrated, it would go away. I've gone through two LC-1's. Grrr. Gonna send them both back to Innovate.
If I recall I had everything but the heater ground grounded to one of the Autronic sensor grounds. I had the analog out to the Autronic which worked fine whenever the LC-1 was working.
My question about the Zeitronix is, is the analog out configurable via software? For example, with the LC-1 to work with Autronic I would set 10 AFR = 0 volts and 20 AFR = 2.5 volts. Can you do this with the Zeitronix?
I'm considering forgetting about these rink a dink permanent install widebands. Might go in with a couple friends on buying an Autronic wideband. I've never once found a use for a permanent install wideband when I'm not tuning.
If I recall I had everything but the heater ground grounded to one of the Autronic sensor grounds. I had the analog out to the Autronic which worked fine whenever the LC-1 was working.
My question about the Zeitronix is, is the analog out configurable via software? For example, with the LC-1 to work with Autronic I would set 10 AFR = 0 volts and 20 AFR = 2.5 volts. Can you do this with the Zeitronix?
I'm considering forgetting about these rink a dink permanent install widebands. Might go in with a couple friends on buying an Autronic wideband. I've never once found a use for a permanent install wideband when I'm not tuning.
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt...bandoutput.htm
0V is 9.6 AFR, 5V is 19.6 AFR. You can configure the output to 0-2.5V using 2 simple resistors, which we can include with the Zt-2, just ask.
Pretty close:
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt...bandoutput.htm
0V is 9.6 AFR, 5V is 19.6 AFR. You can configure the output to 0-2.5V using 2 simple resistors, which we can include with the Zt-2, just ask.
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt...bandoutput.htm
0V is 9.6 AFR, 5V is 19.6 AFR. You can configure the output to 0-2.5V using 2 simple resistors, which we can include with the Zt-2, just ask.
We are a stocking dealer of the Zeitronix line of products if anyone needs them.
There have been some good comparo's by different user's of both products here....interesting.
Steve
