4K RPM idle
4K RPM idle
This will be long, but please read and if you have any ideas let me know.
My car was fine. I put cams in and changed the LICP. I had to wait about a week and a half to get it tuned, so I didn't accelerate hard at all during this time. Once it was on the dyno we found the problem. The car accelerates like normal and the tuner lets off at 7K. The RPMs start to fall but stop at 4K and just hold. He taps the throttle a few times after 10 seconds or so and they drop down eventually. He asks if I've ever had the problem before, I say no...blah blah blah. He tried playing with some settings (I don't know which ones) but nothing helped. This was just Friday.
Here are the rest of the facts. It's not the idle air control motor. I switched a friends on mine and it changed nothing. There are no vac leaks. I have not yet hooked up a scanner to my car so I don't know what the throttle position sensor is reading, but you can sit there and watch it open and close normally. The throttle cable does not bind anywhere and moves freely. The IAC or TB were not excessively dirty at all. I have not pulled the TB off yet...that's tomorrows job. The tuner is very well respected so I don't think it has anything to do with him. It had this problem on the base line pull so he didn't do much if anything. They did have a problem with the first laptop they had hooked up to my car, so they had to switch to another one. I don't know what the problem was, nor do I know if they even tried adjusting anything before switching. It appears as though there has to be at least some load on the car. I can't get it to happen sitting in a parking lot or driveway, but I can clutch in rolling down the road and rev it up and it will catch. Depressing the clutch doesn't help, blipping the throttle doesn't help. I have to actually shift to a higher gear and force the RPMs to drop.
I'm at a total loss. If it was a vac leak I would assume it would have other symptoms and more obvious ones at that. It's not the IAC because a one that is for sure working exhibited the same problems. The TB seems to move perfectly fine, although I will be taking it off and thoroughly cleaning it just to make sure.
Any ideas? Could something with the first laptop have messed something up? I don't see how cams or the LICP would have effected anything that has to do with this.
If you read this whole thing I'm shocked and thanks. Might as well post just for recognition you got this far!
My car was fine. I put cams in and changed the LICP. I had to wait about a week and a half to get it tuned, so I didn't accelerate hard at all during this time. Once it was on the dyno we found the problem. The car accelerates like normal and the tuner lets off at 7K. The RPMs start to fall but stop at 4K and just hold. He taps the throttle a few times after 10 seconds or so and they drop down eventually. He asks if I've ever had the problem before, I say no...blah blah blah. He tried playing with some settings (I don't know which ones) but nothing helped. This was just Friday.
Here are the rest of the facts. It's not the idle air control motor. I switched a friends on mine and it changed nothing. There are no vac leaks. I have not yet hooked up a scanner to my car so I don't know what the throttle position sensor is reading, but you can sit there and watch it open and close normally. The throttle cable does not bind anywhere and moves freely. The IAC or TB were not excessively dirty at all. I have not pulled the TB off yet...that's tomorrows job. The tuner is very well respected so I don't think it has anything to do with him. It had this problem on the base line pull so he didn't do much if anything. They did have a problem with the first laptop they had hooked up to my car, so they had to switch to another one. I don't know what the problem was, nor do I know if they even tried adjusting anything before switching. It appears as though there has to be at least some load on the car. I can't get it to happen sitting in a parking lot or driveway, but I can clutch in rolling down the road and rev it up and it will catch. Depressing the clutch doesn't help, blipping the throttle doesn't help. I have to actually shift to a higher gear and force the RPMs to drop.
I'm at a total loss. If it was a vac leak I would assume it would have other symptoms and more obvious ones at that. It's not the IAC because a one that is for sure working exhibited the same problems. The TB seems to move perfectly fine, although I will be taking it off and thoroughly cleaning it just to make sure.
Any ideas? Could something with the first laptop have messed something up? I don't see how cams or the LICP would have effected anything that has to do with this.
If you read this whole thing I'm shocked and thanks. Might as well post just for recognition you got this far!
I'm going to hook a scanner up to it today to see if there are any codes that are stored in there. The CEL is not on though. It's obviously easy to recreate the problem, so I'll do so and see what the TPS and IAC say when it's happening.
that laptop switch is a bit scary... could have changed something under a strange/incorrect definition.
did he try flashing the original map back to see if it still happened?
Just because the ISCV is moving doesn't necessarily mean the idle is correct or not getting "stuck". If you can connect to the ECU try an unmodified rom (just to see the idle issue) and check your BISS to make sure its not way out.
You are sure there isn't a major leak after the throttle body? Possibly take off your FPR line or something? Forget to hook your MAF back up?
did he try flashing the original map back to see if it still happened?
Just because the ISCV is moving doesn't necessarily mean the idle is correct or not getting "stuck". If you can connect to the ECU try an unmodified rom (just to see the idle issue) and check your BISS to make sure its not way out.
You are sure there isn't a major leak after the throttle body? Possibly take off your FPR line or something? Forget to hook your MAF back up?
Took it to work again (I have the week off) and played with it. Checked all sorts of sensors and fittings. The last thing we tried was just unplugging the IACV and trying it like that. It actually worked. With the IACV the car will drop RPM like normal after you run it up to redline.
As far as the first laptop, I guess he just grabbed the wrong one. He had two and the first one he grabbed didn't have EvoScan on it so they switched. Doesn't seem like it would be a big deal...nothing happened with the first one.
Now I need to find out why the IACV is being told to idle there under those conditions. Ideas?
As far as the first laptop, I guess he just grabbed the wrong one. He had two and the first one he grabbed didn't have EvoScan on it so they switched. Doesn't seem like it would be a big deal...nothing happened with the first one.
Now I need to find out why the IACV is being told to idle there under those conditions. Ideas?
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Does anyone have a stock program from an 05? I don't know that they would differ from year to year, but I might as well try to get an 05. I would like to compare a stock program (or close to, doesn't have to be perfect) to what mine is now. My car has been tuned twice...once before I bought it and just last week, so it has had a handful of revisions.
If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it greatly. PM me if you think you can help.
If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it greatly. PM me if you think you can help.
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