how much including postage dave? i got mine from wb02 ppl cost me $110

 

postage was a LOT, but I got a tactrix 3 port sent as well.

if I was doing it again you can probably fit the WB into a USPS Small flatrate box, which is 12.95USD...

 

I had a guy in AUS that I used to send small bits from 4G motors he couldn't get. USPS was always the way to go.

Otherwise you get creamed.

 

For me profit from selling stock cat > cost of RTP. The high flow cat was a little more expensive, but its worth it for the environment. Unless you really need to be stock appearing, why wreck something thats perfectly good?

While not ideal, I imagine you will probably be just fine. On the other hand, it isn't very expensive ($30?) or difficult to just weld another bung in the stock exhaust in an ideal location, and won't require a resistor box (guessing you can't turn off the heater check for the X yet)... If it saves you 1 sensor its already worth it, and if your tunes are better its worth even more....

 

I agree to keep the cat. The Milspec 100 cell is a good way to go.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...available.html

If stock appearance is important you could always weld the stock shielding around the new cat.

 

i have a milspec cat - but i want to get a baseline tune with stock car first... then i will slowly add parts to get a power change database going

 

I have stated before i think there is a large misconception that WBo2 sensors are overly sensitive to heat. My old roommate was running his Uego in his subaru 3" from the turbo with 1700*F EGTs for 30-40k miles. This was with meth and nitro injection. Never had a problem with it.

 

well that's only 920 degC, which is *just under* their operating temp...

but AFAIK the cat actually produces heat in the way it works - correct me if I am wrong, but I thought when the exhaust is rich/leaner than stoich the cat HEATS up...

So the cat could be higher than EGT's from the engine..

in theory anyways.

 

I know it gets hot but i am surprised the cat would get just as hot as EGTs pre turbo. All i know is that sensor came out white as a ghost when we pulled it out of my rommies car

 

Most O2 sensors just fail from not being installed vertically or from being loaded up with lead.

 

One thing to add.

I would not put the wideband inside the cat. By the sound of it, the second sensor may be checking for NOx conversion in the front section. Here it would be looking for excess O2 due to the NO being split to N2 and O2. So mounting it here it may read alot leaner than you actually are. Post cat is not so bad because the the extra O2 is mostly used up in the THC and CO conversion. The best option is to just add another O2 sensor bung just before the cat, something any exhaust shop could do for you. It will be far enough away to prevent overheating and close enough to have good response.

Good to hear you got your X :-)

 

bugger

so the first couple of logs were fine.

but as soon as I leaned out the map 0.5 AFR my sensor goes funny:



Now the sensor doesn't throw an error - but I found a post by Klaus from Innovate that says a lean condition could mean exhaust too hot... I am assuming the slightly leaner AFR means a higher EGT (anyone comment on this?) thus a higher cat temp...

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...6&postcount=13

I redid the heater cal this morning (sensor out of exhaust) so its definitely not that..

 

I think a bigger problem is that cats are not consistent. both due to temperature and age, A new cat might change your reading a lot while an old one is going to change it a lot less as it's efficiency drops off. It sounds very risky to tune even mid-cat In my opinion.
Also,catalyst temps spike when there's lots of fuel and lots of flow, like a turbo car under boost, which is probably why your WBO2 went way lean on you.

 

yeh - I am just deciding whether to install my HFC with a bung b4 - or put a bung on the stock front pipe

 

I'd put the bung in the down pipe.

Right infront of the crossmember is room to stick the sensor on top of the tube. Going to this location, you can point it straight up, preventing condensation from collecting in the sensor. It's also far enough back that the sensor won't overheat.

Other wise, you have to stick it in a horizontal position. This will reduce sensor life. Or you have to put it up on the O2 housing, which will overheat the sensor.