Wideband O2 Questions
Wideband O2 Questions
So I have a very lightly modified Evo IX. It is the first car I have ever modified. I put on the Apexi air intake, it is essentially just a cone filter that attaches on to your stock rubber tube. I bought it because it was supposed to not cause as much air turbulence issues as the kits which replace the stock inlet tube (or whatever you call it), and because I heard it was a very good filter with no maintenance. I also installed a Resonated TBE with a mechanical o2 fix.
I obviously wanted to get tuned to these mods and I believe that trying to use the NB02 (stock) for tuning is making the process difficult and reducing the value of the tune. So my next step, also recommended by my tuner, is a Wide Band O2. I know there are quite a few out there, but I wanted some Stock ECU specialist opinions on where to go.
I just recently became aware of the fact that the LC1 has three outputs. Two analog, one serial (digital). I also understand that the LC1 can be programmed and calibrated, and I believe each analog output can be done independently.
Therefore it would seem possible, to use one analog input to simulate my stock rear O2 sensor to keep me passing emissons tests and throwing CELs. I wanted to do this with next to no software mods to the ECU rom. Because when I take my Evo to the dealership, I reflash to stock just in case someone wants to see if I've been messing with it (2 step is easy to check for instance). And I want there to be no CEL on the stock rom.
So is it possible to make the LC1 output to one of it's analog wires a signal exactly like the stock NB02, so the ECU would not notice that it is missing. But I also know there is the issue of the heater circuit. Can I wire the stock NB02 heating circuit directly to the ECU? Will that draw too much current as compared to the stock NB02 and cause damage to the ECU? I would think they couldn't be that much different. But I could do the standard heater simulation and wire up the heater for the WB02 separately (less ideal for me).
So when making the stock ECU happy as a clam, thinking nothing has changed with the NB02. Can I tap into a ADC elsewhere on the ECU, and configure the other full 0-5V linear WB02 output from the LC1, so I can log the WB02 with a modified ROM? Or would I be better off just going straight to serial->usb (new laptop) and logging that way w/ Mitsulogger? That way I have no software work to do with the ECU. I wouldn't think this would be too irritating as if I have no laptop connected to the ECU, the WB02 information is pointless anyhow, and if I really wanted someday I could just save the second analog output for a Gauge.
So is all of this possible? Or is there a major roadblock in my idea? Would I need to do some more complicated signal processing to simulate the NB02 to the stock ECU for passing emissions?
Thanks,
David
I obviously wanted to get tuned to these mods and I believe that trying to use the NB02 (stock) for tuning is making the process difficult and reducing the value of the tune. So my next step, also recommended by my tuner, is a Wide Band O2. I know there are quite a few out there, but I wanted some Stock ECU specialist opinions on where to go.
I just recently became aware of the fact that the LC1 has three outputs. Two analog, one serial (digital). I also understand that the LC1 can be programmed and calibrated, and I believe each analog output can be done independently.
Therefore it would seem possible, to use one analog input to simulate my stock rear O2 sensor to keep me passing emissons tests and throwing CELs. I wanted to do this with next to no software mods to the ECU rom. Because when I take my Evo to the dealership, I reflash to stock just in case someone wants to see if I've been messing with it (2 step is easy to check for instance). And I want there to be no CEL on the stock rom.
So is it possible to make the LC1 output to one of it's analog wires a signal exactly like the stock NB02, so the ECU would not notice that it is missing. But I also know there is the issue of the heater circuit. Can I wire the stock NB02 heating circuit directly to the ECU? Will that draw too much current as compared to the stock NB02 and cause damage to the ECU? I would think they couldn't be that much different. But I could do the standard heater simulation and wire up the heater for the WB02 separately (less ideal for me).
So when making the stock ECU happy as a clam, thinking nothing has changed with the NB02. Can I tap into a ADC elsewhere on the ECU, and configure the other full 0-5V linear WB02 output from the LC1, so I can log the WB02 with a modified ROM? Or would I be better off just going straight to serial->usb (new laptop) and logging that way w/ Mitsulogger? That way I have no software work to do with the ECU. I wouldn't think this would be too irritating as if I have no laptop connected to the ECU, the WB02 information is pointless anyhow, and if I really wanted someday I could just save the second analog output for a Gauge.
So is all of this possible? Or is there a major roadblock in my idea? Would I need to do some more complicated signal processing to simulate the NB02 to the stock ECU for passing emissions?
Thanks,
David
1) get my V5 patch to resolve your REAR 02 CEL's
2) buy either a ZT2 or LC1, ZT2 for ease of install/use
3) You can wireup the analogue output of LC1/ZT2 to the ECU (using the Rear02 input) and log it easy...
a) If you dont want to run any patches then you will need to relocate your Rear02 sensor behind the cat OR use a sparkplug extender
b) if your only concern is flashing back to stock for the dealer then dont worry about the rear02 cel...
2) buy either a ZT2 or LC1, ZT2 for ease of install/use
3) You can wireup the analogue output of LC1/ZT2 to the ECU (using the Rear02 input) and log it easy...
a) If you dont want to run any patches then you will need to relocate your Rear02 sensor behind the cat OR use a sparkplug extender
b) if your only concern is flashing back to stock for the dealer then dont worry about the rear02 cel...
I don't have a rear o2 cel problem right now. I have the mechanical fix with the stock sensor and it works great.
2.) Which one of those do I want?
3.) What about the heater wiring? Will throwing the full wide band signal into those A/D pins for the stock rear02 give me a Rear02 CEL?
PS: I always thought your patches looked interesting, but I only really wanted the Knock CEL, is there a way to only apply that fix, I know I can apply all of them, and turn the ones I don't want off. But I'd rather keep it simple?
Thanks,
David
2.) Which one of those do I want?
3.) What about the heater wiring? Will throwing the full wide band signal into those A/D pins for the stock rear02 give me a Rear02 CEL?
PS: I always thought your patches looked interesting, but I only really wanted the Knock CEL, is there a way to only apply that fix, I know I can apply all of them, and turn the ones I don't want off. But I'd rather keep it simple?
Thanks,
David
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I get the impression that you haven't quite got the correct picture of what's needed to tune the car. Its a given that its impossible to effectively tune using the stock front NBO2 sensor. That does not preclude the continued use of the front NBO2 sensor though. It serves the purpose of controlling AFR during close loop cruise. Its no problem to install a wideband O2 sensor while still keeping the stock front NBO2 sensor. A wideband O2 cannot be installed in the same location as the stock front O2 sensor. The heat would kill it very quickly. It has to be installed towards the end of the downpipe.
the LC1 is simple and effective used by many, 
^mrfred:+1
virtually all aftermarket test pipe replacements have a bung ready for wideband fitting
^mrfred:+1
virtually all aftermarket test pipe replacements have a bung ready for wideband fitting
Last edited by leecavturbo; Jul 19, 2008 at 10:51 PM.
I get the impression that you haven't quite got the correct picture of what's needed to tune the car. Its a given that its impossible to effectively tune using the stock front NBO2 sensor. That does not preclude the continued use of the front NBO2 sensor though. It serves the purpose of controlling AFR during close loop cruise. Its no problem to install a wideband O2 sensor while still keeping the stock front NBO2 sensor. A wideband O2 cannot be installed in the same location as the stock front O2 sensor. The heat would kill it very quickly. It has to be installed towards the end of the downpipe.
And yes, I had no intentions of putting it on the front NB02 spot because it would damage a WBO2. I mentioned that I had a AMS TBE, and yes it does have a bung for a RearO2/WBO2. That is the only place I wanted to put it.
What I want to know is, can I basically plug the WBO2 directly into the ECU the way the facotry rear o2 is. I know that there are other lines(such as the serial and extra analog) that I would have to deal with. But would the single analog out and heater wiring work using the factory RearO2 wiring?
Hopefully this time I was more clear about my question.
ahhh....
no - the signal wiring is fine.
the heater wiring will cause problems.
its better to run the WB's OWN heater wiring (to the WB controller) and either leave the standard NB02 wiring or run the heater resistor mod...
no - the signal wiring is fine.
the heater wiring will cause problems.
its better to run the WB's OWN heater wiring (to the WB controller) and either leave the standard NB02 wiring or run the heater resistor mod...
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I run the wideband o2 from a bung welded into an aftermarket down pipe right before the cat. I also run the mechaical fix and left the rear o2 in place. I run only the cel mod right now and the jdm map sensor. I use one of the outputs from the lc-1 to drive a gauge that is integrated into a Apexi turbo timer. as stated before you simply run the serial output of the lc-1 into laptop as the laptop or carputer will be required for logging anyway. I briefly considered wiring into ECU but it seems too much hassle when I already have a working solution.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Also, why can't you use the factory heater wiring for the rear02? Will it draw too much current? Or is it related to the calibration routines and the LED status light?
I was looking at the pinout of the Evo IX ECU, and it looks like there is an unused ADC, could I run my second analog to this port, so I don't need to bother with the serial connection to my Laptop?
Also, on the LC1, do they really use stereo jacks for the connections? That's an odd choice of connector for automotive purposes.
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The WBO2 sensor needs a dedicated controller to supply power to the sensor. Hence, no one wires a WBO2 sensor directly to the NBO2 heater wires. The controller power cannot be wired to the NBO2 heater power wires either because ECU does not supply continous power to the heaters. Power needs to be taken from a clean 12 V source. As you'll find when you hook up a WBO2 controller, the ground location is also important for proper performance of the analog out signal.
Your question on using ADC inputs to read the analog out is answered here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=337823
And here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=358627
Your question on using ADC inputs to read the analog out is answered here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=337823
And here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=358627
I have read through the thread, been looking for setting up the extra (unused) ADC on the USDM Evo IX. I want to leave the RearO2 ADC as is. Instead of running up this thread, could you PMing me mrfred or tephra and humor some of my newbie questions?
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
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