Could you explain this more John? Sorry I'm not too familiar with the EGR advance map.

How for example, would you tune 3000 rpm / 100 load on the road?

 

You will still scroll through them, and you also have to smooth them in. Don't want any large differences between cells.

 

you say it doesn't feel a snappy with more timing advance (cruising)

is this because its over advanced (past MBT)........(you will be able to go way past MBT before it knocks)


this is why I started this thread to find if there are any ways of getting mbt at low load other than on a dyno?

 

No, I'm saying it doesn't feel as snappy (like when you are cruising at a low load, and then just mash the pedal) because you have a larger value that you have to smooth down more once you get into the higher load cells. Compared to just having the same cells like 8 less degrees of advance.

 

this surprises me. the ecu is pretty fast after all.

 

Remember for me 100 is 100kpa more or less. I am tuning in the 60-80 range for highway driving.

 

I like where you are going with this, but what about those of us whom have disabled and removed all of the EGR stuff? The EGR table isn't called.

I assume we can just advance timing in the low cruise range.

As with N/A cars, can we tune to say 15.7 AFR since we are not in boost?

Cruise tuning is the last piece of my "puzzle". I would like to get more than the 22mpg I get now.

 

What's the reasoning behind adding the additional advance in the EGR map vs doing it in the main map?

 

This is what I have been wanting to know.

I don't know, but for me I noticed just having like 30 instead of 40 degrees of timing advance made the car seem more snappy, as if you just mashed the gas all of a sudden while cruising.

I'm curious as to how the EGR map affects timing. Like how fast does it add it in, and under what circumstances does it start to?

 

i was thinking 14.7 for the cruising is the best number but noticed you guys mentioned somewhere between 15.x to 16.x. Where're these numbers came from?

 

Because for the best fuel economy, you change the 14.7 to 15.1-15.5 during low load/cruise areas. That give you improved fuel economy.

 

Adaptability is why I do it this way. Even though the EGR is deleted I left all my subs on so it will work. Since it works based off knock feedback (apparently) I can get a very good idea of what it likes on both gasoline and E85. I said at the outset I cheat and it works really good vs coolant temp this way as well (I have warmup retard disabled) since most other makes actually add timing when cold not take it away.

I have seen depending on the terrain times when the car will run 47* down the road, but if it gets a little hilly depending on throttle input it likes 42* better. I would rather let it float and maintain my 26mpg (some of this is 16:1 cruise) than mess around with a static value and hope it fits all situations