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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 01:16 AM
  #61  
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John going to talk thru PM's man

U got AIM?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 02:37 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Colt4g63
Wouldn't regular "E75" take less fuel then E75 cut with Q16 as Q16 requires more fuel system over gasoline due to the oxygenation of Q16? I know i have seen a decent increase in fuel need for Q16 over C16 for obvious reasons.... Not sure how it really compares with mixing Q16 to the crap gasoline they cut our out of the tank E85 with though... Which im sure right now is E70 due to winter blend being in full effect here.

Basically im trying to decide which way i need to go 1st with my fuel system. By looking at my fuel map i don't see the signs of losing fuel pressure ATM just running out of injector.... BUT i also haven't looked at the FP under a WOT pull yet to see for sure what its doing.....
I havent ever seen Q take more fuel since its Sg is about the same as gas. C16 on the otherhand does seem to richen things up and you actually lean it out.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #63  
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Like Aaron said Q VS gas seems about the same in AFR and going C16 can make you almost .5 ricer then most Gases out there.

I did Q because its what we had around and of course its alot denser then Ethanol.

On the Fuel pump subject one thing to keep in mind is with Aarons pump you will have to run a big FPR and return line to get control of fuel pressure or drop the voltage at low load. Ware as with the dual pumps you can activate the 2nd pump based on boost so there is no need for FPR, Big lines.

Another problem is the EVO has a siphon pump in the tank that is ran off the return line. This peace does not flow well either. So you would have to ditch this or do the low voltage to the fuel pump at light load. Cars with out this will run out of gas at about 1/4 tank.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:33 PM
  #64  
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So what kind of solution would you say you could use on for example, a modified hanger with no pumps internaly with a -10 being sucked from say a weldon pump straight to a rail then a -8 going straight back to the modified hanger?
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #65  
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Not sure what you mean by hanger. I think if you are still trying to have your EVO gas tank work right you will have to do some kinda of pump controller that will lower voltage at low loads.

Like this http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=277

On my Evo I have Dual Bosch 040 pumps external that each have there own 1/2in tube into the tank.
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #66  
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right, just using the stock fuel pump hanger with no pumps on it. Tapping them with AN fittings for a feed line and return but using a aeromotive or weldon big external pump
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #67  
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If you want your stock gas tank to work right you will need that controller or maybe buy 2 of the stock siphon pumps or make a controlled bleed with in the tank so the pressure will be low enough and the siphon will still work.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 01:08 AM
  #68  
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I may just man up and leave the tank alone and throw a 12gal cell in the trunk
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 04:32 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Lucas English
Like Aaron said Q VS gas seems about the same in AFR and going C16 can make you almost .5 ricer then most Gases out there.

I did Q because its what we had around and of course its alot denser then Ethanol.

On the Fuel pump subject one thing to keep in mind is with Aarons pump you will have to run a big FPR and return line to get control of fuel pressure or drop the voltage at low load. Ware as with the dual pumps you can activate the 2nd pump based on boost so there is no need for FPR, Big lines.

Another problem is the EVO has a siphon pump in the tank that is ran off the return line. This peace does not flow well either. So you would have to ditch this or do the low voltage to the fuel pump at light load. Cars with out this will run out of gas at about 1/4 tank.
right now my return line is custom 1/4 tube and i got the the problem of running out out of gas at 1/4 tank, so i will need to get that fuel controller ? or is there something else i can do to make it work?
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 10:39 AM
  #70  
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OT- But...Force Fed I just noticed you have a 66 Chevelle (as do I) and a 570whp stock block IX (as did I). Interesting
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 12:24 PM
  #71  
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lol yup yup, betcha my 66 chevelle looks worse than urs hahaha
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #72  
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Well you will 1st need to put the little siphon pump back in the tank. (little H deal with one leg missing) If your pump setup over runs it then you will have to do something like the pump controller.

Originally Posted by dsm25psi
right now my return line is custom 1/4 tube and i got the the problem of running out out of gas at 1/4 tank, so i will need to get that fuel controller ? or is there something else i can do to make it work?
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 12:36 PM
  #73  
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yup exactly what i was thinking. Seems to me a cell in the trunk would be a much easier solution
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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Aaron, can you comment on the reliability of the 16306 aeromotive fuel pump speed controller? I drive my car long distances, sometimes 300 miles from home, and a failure would put me out. I think that controller with the magnafuel pump would be the ticket for my DSM and easier to wire than dual pumps.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #75  
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I have the older anodised red one which I dont believe had the calibrate RPM and min volt. So far the red one seems to be working well. Mine is part number 16302.
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