i read somewhere that on the 03 you need to disconnect the battery to reset fuel trims ect. is this true? but on the newer evos you dont need too.

 

ya i think they need to start making it big text in bold. ID told us that it will get the drivers to overheat and they will just pop. And you risk either frying the ecu drivers and the actual injectors.

Do it..... the 2150 idle perfect man. They are amazing for a huge injector. I have a video i will upload for you of me screwing around ill pm it to you, so you can see how they react even not scaled right at idle.

 

well it certainly wouldn't hurt to do it..... it will just start you from scratch. what do you have them scaled at right now? start at 1400

 

1624. where to find voltage?

 

email me your settings? so we can start from thier. bprracing@yahoo.com
thanks.

 

what motor you got?

try 1400 scaling to start

and for battery voltage try:

3.000
1.488
0.936
0.672
0.528
0.408
0.360

scaling varys per fuel/motor etc.

you may need to make minor adjustments on your idle set screw as well
depending on what all you changed on the car.

 

2.0l thanks

 

What's the resistor box look like? I'm about to pull the trigger on a set and would like to know what I need to pull.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...istor-box.html

basically you cut the box off and solder the ends that used to connect to the box from the pigtail. and then keep the box saved somewhere incase u need to put stock back on.

 

Did this ever get worked out? I'm trying 2150's on pump and the idle trims aren't changing. I'm working with an experienced tuner that is running out of ideas with these The issue is my low trims are stuck at .1008 and my afr's at idle are 11.3-11.6.

Resistor box bypassed, ecu reset, settings are -

Scaling - 2249, tried 1949 also (too low?)
Voltage -

5.208
3.504
1.512
1.104
0.96
0.648
0.384

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Your "experienced" tuner should make the changes to the MAF hz cross over points to get your LTFTs to adjust.

 

Your tuner has it all F'd up.

this is the latency, its not gonna change-

9.38- .936
11.72- .672
14.06- .504
16.41- .384

You are double that.

That is why your scaling is messed up.

Or your O2 is bad.

End result get a new tuner.

 

The initial posters problem was electronic as soon as it got an Omnipower 4 bar it was golden, for any that might not have known that.

 

Thanks for chiming in John, I almost called you today I had a spare front o2 sensor that I swapped in and it didn't change (my tuner figured it might be that so since I had a spare we tried that yesterday). He also said it could be a bad boost leak. I'm running a 3586 upgraded from FP and the boost is leaking out the back of the compressor cover where it meets the backplate. I talked to FP and at the same time my tuner talked to Garrett. FP says this is normal from factory to leak there and is NOT our issue, Garrett says it is not normal. My 35r never leaked at that spot but now that FP upgraded it it's leaking. I understand FP's point, they said seal it up or don't, it shouldn't matter but they can't because most guys have to clock their compressor cover and sealing it there before it's clocked and aligned would just be stupid. We've tried to work around that but my tuner is thinking that is our main issue right now...FP stands by and said it shouldn't matter.

My tuner said changing the MAF Hz wouldn't help the AFR being omega rich so that isn't the problem Applaudd but thanks for the tip.

This is only his 3rd set of these on pump, he's done quite a few on e85 with no issues from what I've read.

I sent him your thread on 2150 notes and he swapped the numbers to those -

scaling 1624

voltage -

3.000
1.512
0.912
0.696
0.552
0.456
0.384

Right now with these numbers it won't idle at all, it doesn't even try to stay idling, it starts, then dies, with the other scaling it at least idles. Should we be trying higher scaling with your corrected voltage which I'll take as the updated info? (sorry if that is a newbish question, I'm not the tuner just trying to get my car running )

Thanks guys!

 

Is it idling rich or lean. If you keep your foot on the gas will the car stay running at 1500 rpm? If so, look at the AFR its 12.0 the car is too rich and you need to adjust the scaling up (1624 to something higher) if its idling at 17.0+ drop it (1624 to 1539).

Remember the latency is the latency, scaling is the correction factor here. After that ignore closed loop if he cant make it work and idle it in open loop until he gets a hang of whats going on.

As many FIC2150 cars as I have done (including my own on both ID and FIC 2000+cc injectors), they are the same between E85 and gas only varying in the scaling. I do use them in SD cars exclusively since everyone in the NW is giving up MAFs like rats on a sinking ship. However injector setup is still the same so thats not as much a factor I dont feel.

I have never and will never play with the MAF scaling, it causes more complex issues as mod paths change that dont always get changed back when they really need to. Thats my input on that anyway.