Pin9 is the only pin that was getting over voltage, all new 1.3U cables since March 2011 I have added extra protection so pin9 is safe (now limited to 5v) to check if your cable is a safe one see checks below. it really is the only pin that caused the overvoltage. the guy above didn't have pin9 insulated fully, removing the pin can still connect if there is a residual pole left in the cable. if you are to be really sure, then get the vehicle side obdii port, and pop the pin9 pin out of the vehicle obdii plug. it can be done with a simple tiny screwdriver. all OBDII plugs have individual popable pins. If you want to be totally sure you can always also pop out pin1 as an optional extra. pin1 should handle up to 16volts, and pin9 only handles up to 5volts. By disconnecting both pin1 and pin9, you have fully disconnected ETACs from the OBDII vehicle port.

Check for a safe 1.3U cable: (test with the cable unplugged, tests are done on the cable pins)
• multimeter test pin16 for no continuity to pin9 = safe
• multimeter test pin16 for no continuity to pin1 = safe
• multimeter test pin16 for ohms to pin9 = 0.9 - 1.0Kohms = safe
• multimeter test pin16 for ohms to pin1 = 0.9 - 1.0Kohms = safe

 

I have had another ETACS give up the ghost tonight. I had removed pin9 from the connector and replaced my ETACS and everything has been good ever since...until tonight. I have some questions:

Is there a true solution to this problem?
Is there a way to fix this ETACS? (or am I out another $350?)
Can I exchange my cable for one which doesn't do this?

 

post details on exactly what you did when it went haywire. e.g. doors open or closed, ignition key in or out.

I have an extra one I can ship you by priority mail if you need one right away. Just pm me. It won't be no ridiculous $350 price either.

 

Hamish,

Are the people who sent you their ETACS ever going to get them back? It's been over a year.

 

yep the solution is to get a replacement cable since March 2011. And yep I am still working on sending back the 2 ETACs ECUs that have been sent to me. I just need to sit down with them. I'll make it a priority.

Pin9 is the only pin that was getting over voltage, all new 1.3U cables since March 2011 I have added extra protection so pin9 is safe (now limited to 5v) to check if your cable is a safe one see checks below. it really is the only pin that caused the overvoltage. the guy above didn't have pin9 insulated fully, removing the pin can still connect if there is a residual pole left in the cable. if you are to be really sure, then get the vehicle side obdii port, and pop the pin9 pin out of the vehicle obdii plug. it can be done with a simple tiny screwdriver. all OBDII plugs have individual popable pins. If you want to be totally sure you can always also pop out pin1 as an optional extra. pin1 should handle up to 16volts, and pin9 only handles up to 5volts. By disconnecting both pin1 and pin9, you have fully disconnected ETACs from the OBDII vehicle port.

Check for a safe 1.3U cable: (test with the cable unplugged, tests are done on the cable pins)
• multimeter test pin16 for no continuity to pin9 = safe
• multimeter test pin16 for no continuity to pin1 = safe
• multimeter test pin16 for ohms to pin9 = 0.9 - 1.0Kohms = safe
• multimeter test pin16 for ohms to pin1 = 0.9 - 1.0Kohms = safe

 

Hamish replaced my cable which was awesome! My old cable which he replaced had some burnt traces on the board and a blown up capacitor. Thanks for the replacement!

The new cable came the other day and everything is all good. I did notice that I now get the blinking dash lights which I didnt get before even when the old cable was working. Makes me wonder if there wasnt more wrong with my old cable but ohwell.

 

I am getting the blinking anti lock brake light with the cable connected. This did not happen with older cables. I am wondering what has been changed as compared to the cables that Colby used to sell.

 

10+ years later im somewhat in the same rabbit hole as most of you were. I lost the 1 key that was registered to the immobilizer. I decided to call an auto locksmith to have a new key made a programmed. The locksmith pulled out 4-5 computers trying different setting etc at one point the computers stopped registering car. Had to go to the dealership. The were able to program a key but were not able to reprogram the remote / fob for the central locking. Ive tried every which way to reprogram I even purchased different remotes and batteries to knock out all possible variables.
With some late night digging and self diagnosing I realized my "Auto-Dome" light does not turn on when door is open and now my fob does not program so the only option would be there's something wrong with the ETACS. Im under the impression the ETACS was RESET at the dealer at the time the new keys were registered so if they weren't able to program remotes via software than it must be a hardware issue.
I removed my ETAC today (unplugged the battery) and took it to a local electronics repair shop were the attendant is proficient at micro soldering and fixing PCB boards. Being that the car is 20 years old parts are not as easy to source anymore and the likeliness of ordering an ETACS on eBay and it be friend also are 50/50 not to mention it might need to be reprogrammed to my vin? (didn't find conclusive statements on this). In short I took the ETACS to him to check for electrical continuity on the board ie. resistors mosfets, ect. Came to ONE possible conclusion that one of the MOSFET chips is bad to which we removed the chip and checked additional continuity to isolate. From his and mine understanding the chip was not grounding properly. So we ordered a new MOSFET chip and are awaiting for arrival to solder and hopefully fix what we think is the issue.
Additionally ive gone as far as ordering a used ETAC on eBay. They are now sub $100. With the hopes of having a secondary option with the dealership being able to reprogram the ETACs and install.