Hello all
I was at the dyno tuning my almost stock 2003 Evo 8 (3" turboback with stock elbow) with Tephra v7 94170715 and suddenly after some pulls it started to knock alot. Knocksum of 36... Strange thing is that it was fine on the previuos tune that had about low-mid 12 afrs during spool and about knocksum of 1. I wanted abit richer and lowered that area. Did not raise timing. Did a new pull and then it knocked like crazy.
Please see high octane ignition map and screenshot of log from Evoscan logging with Load1B.
Could not see that downpipe are hitting anything either. Tried richen it to low-mid 11 afrs but still knocking. Tried to lower timing 2-3 degrees, then was suddenly not able to read or write with Ecuflash anymore... Evoscan was fine though...
Can anyone tell if I am too agressive on timing? Fuel should be rich enough. Also tried to disable lean spool.
Boost is about 1.6 bar falling to 1.4 bar. Ramp rate is about 500 rpm/sec. The pull before it started knocking like crazy, it had about 290 hp (Dynapack). 224 hp as stock.
Fuel is Norwegian 98 Ron octane. Dont know what it is compared to your?





Thanks

 

Why are you running negative timing at the end of spoolup? Shouldn't go any lower than 1 or 2 degrees. I don't know if that negative timing would be enough to raise cylinder temperature enough to cause knock, but it wouldn't hurt to bring it back to more sensible values.

If it suddenly went from no or low knock on one pull to maxing out the knock sensor on the next, with only minor changes in between, I'd say it's a mechanical issue more than a tuning-related one.

 

Also have a graph of knock voltage and knock_adc_prosecced. How to tell if it is false knock?

 

Thanks
My stock rom I pulled from ecu has the same timing as my current rom at end of spoolup... Which values do you think I should try with?

 

Highly doubt that's a stock rom then. Like I said, you shouldn't need to go any lower than 1 degree under full boost. So check where you're getting negatives, and increase them to atleast 1. At 5000rpm you should be around 5 degrees or so, not 1. From 5500rpm and up your map looks fairly normal, but below that timing is too low.

 

That timing map is a disaster. Big jumps, weird neg values at peak load, etc.

Also, 80-90% of the time, knock is timing related. You can try to throw fuel at it, but usually adjusting timing is a more affective way to get rid of knock.

98RON is approx 93oct AKI (US rating)

 

Ok thanks
Anyone willing to share a tuned map for a stock setup like mine with only turboback with similar fuel as I use? Max load is about 260 with Load1B.

 

This thread has tons of timing maps to look at.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ming-maps.html

 

Thanks

I have now read all 130 pages and my head hurts
I found a map that I thought looked nice at page 110 post #1647 https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-maps-110.html
Will this be fine to try? I can see there is more timing than mine so will start with short pulls to 4000-5000 rpm.

And the graph shown in my post# 3, is it real knock?

 

Don't just copy someone else's map. That should be a good map to inspire yourself from though.

 

Can someone tell if this is real knock?

 

Ok so when I tried to read from Ecuflash, no chance... came online with Evoscan and suddenly I saw battery level was oscillating from 4.97 volt to 14.4 volt all the time. The same was coolant- and airtemp aswell. From room temperature to max temperature... Engine was not running. Checked all 4 12v wires at ecu and all was fine. It was with a multimeter though, since my scope was left at home. Power to Openport cable was fine as well. Tried to check if the powergrounds to ecu were good, but could only find 1 of the 2 cables. The one I found was located just above passenger kick panel together with some other ground cables. Could not find the other one... Loosened the screw and tightened it again. Suddenly I got normal readings and got online with ecuflash.
I then tried with more timing very close to the map I linked to above, I could do nice powerruns with little or no knock Rock solid 11.0 afrs. Made about 275 hp at about 1.5-1.6 bar falling to 1.4-1.3. Did remove the stock air filter element (new) and with exactly the same boost (afrs bumped to 11.2) it made 297 hp. Nice gain
Suddenly when idling I could hear something wasnt right, and while logging, I saw battery level was at 9.xx volts... Battery was 14.4 volt... There must definately be something with my ecu wiring and I will try to get a schematic where all grounds and connections are located and check everyone.

Thanks all

 

Check your battery terminals for corrosion and make sure the battery does not have a dead cell. A dead cell will put strain in the alternator and cause all kinds of problems. I' ve seen a 15-25 whp difference between a healthy and a battery with dead cells.
There is also a terminal block behind the left drverside footwell trim that leads to the fuse box. Some evos get wire corrosion there.

 

Will do. Thanks