Okay guys I'm completely frustrated. I spun a main bearing end of last summer and I had a local machine shop build me a stroker short block. I assembled everything else and put it back in the car but the car seems to be way down on power. I initially started the car on my old 2.0l tune thinking if i'm not aggressive with it and turn down the boost it will be fine.

My air/fuel ratios seem to be okay and the logged values match what is shown on the gauge. It starts and idles nice, and also seems to free rev fine.

Symptoms:

1. When I go to pull out it almost wants to stall and hardly makes power.
2. I've taken it out on short trips and come back and the manifold and turbine housing are glowing orange. It was down on power the whole time.

I have attached an image of my AFR log (i cant figure out how to post a .csv file) for people to analyze. As well as my current .bin file.

Things I would like to check:

1. Timing belt, make sure it dint jump a tooth
2. Compression, god forbid i messed up my new engine
3. New spark plugs, maybe colder ones.
4. Verify crank angle sensor
5. Verify cam angle sensor
6. Check fuel pressure

Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.

 

First thing, If you spun a bearing did you install a new oil cooler? If you didn't then you are most likely mixing shrapnel into your oil. Its always a good idea for a new one after an engine has spun a bearing.
Cut open your oil filter and look for metal fragments in the paper mesh. Attend to the metal/oil cooler situation before going any further.
Check Cam timing , it sounds like its off alot causing high EGT's and low power. Then check compression, injectors,followed by the rest of the stuff on your list.

 

I replaced the oil cooler, I also changed oil and filter after the first warm-up because I was worried about metal in the oil but it appeared to be okay.

 

Any knock?
Is your timing ok according to log?
Don't you have a EGT sensor?
What cams do you have?

 

I have very little knock (see attached picture)

My timing seems to follow my map pretty well on average. It does seem to through in a + OR - 3 or so timing every so often. I attached a picture of average timings values for you to digest.

I do not have an EGT probe.

Stock Cams.

 

I would def make sure your timing is on point if you haven't already.

 

After my 2.4 was built, my base timing was WAY off causing the same issue. Felt like a Geo Metro 3 cylinder 40hp engine taking off from a stop. It was really bad.

 

With stock cams you shouldn't go leaner than 10.5 after 220-230 load, it will be too hot.
Check timing belt first.

 

Do you have any feedback on what exactly changed in comparison to a 2.0?


Okay thanks, if it was running well I could get the tune correct, I just haven't figured it out yet.

I've been busy the past couple of days and didn't get much done but have time tonight and will be working on it. I bought a new cam position sensor, so Ill install that tonight. I also bought a step colder spark plugs just to be sure they're okay. First step is to check timing belt.

I did have a thought though. When I first started the car I had a leak out of the castle plug on the front case, basically got most of the timing components oily. My question is, do you think a dirty/oily crank position sensor could cause a problem like this.

I have another noob question, is there supposed to be oil in the cam position sensor housing? I'm pretty sure the answer is yes but I want to be sure as I took that apart last night and it had oil in it.

 

Well I wanted to update this as I just figured out my issue. Turns out I had the Crank Position Sensor trigger in upside down, meaning the side that was facing the towards the engine should have been facing away from the engine.

My tune is now off so its off to tuning. Thanks to all that offered help.

 

thats past bore wash territory