We dyno'd the car today at HPT here in New Braunfels, Tx. We didn't apply any correction factor at all. The dyno is a Dyno Dynamics known to hurt.

Dyno Plot has been updated to show torque instead of AFR and back to back runs comparing the BAFMIC(TM).

The two plots are on the same tune with the difference being that we switched out the intercooler for the BAFMIC I posted in the Welding and Fab thread. The drop in power at 6K is still an unknown and would probably have pushed the car a bit higher were we able to figure out the problem.

Mod list

Stock block, head turbo Evo VIII
Custom turbo inlet w/perrin foam filter
3" tbe with 3" QTP at testpipe
HKS 264/272
FIC 1050's
Custom ignition
Custom UICP
Custom FMIC (And stock at baseline run)
Some El Cheapo Ebay LICP
DNP Tubular Manifold
93 octane
Some O2 housing I got for a song which I am not happy with
Tune was done by me. First run of the day was WHP of 255 for reference
Boost was at 23.5 psi according to the dyno(My Prosport gauge was showing 25 but it is worthless I have learned)
The Map is the 008 base map with lean spool disabled by Mrfred.



We had a noticeable gain from the extra large FMIC. Spool was slightly more by maybe 200 RPM at most but full boost was achieved fairly early since we could load the engine. I was originally upset until I learned how truly heartbreaking this dyno is. I don't care though since the track will be the true test.

For further reference, this is the BAFMIC we swapped the stocker with and picked up about 12 hp. The gain would have been much greater if the motor was making more
power. EDIT : There was a fairly sizable increase in torque with the BAFMIC, to the tune of 25 ft/lbs apparently.




/brox

 

torque?

 

Yeah I'd like to see that too. All I can say is, dunno. I'll call Corey and ask him for the printout.


For your Viewing pleasure, here is a video of the highest run.

http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=MAQ00151.flv

/brox

 

Good numbers! I made 278whp on a super low reading DD like that one with slightly less agressive cams and a few less boltons.

 

ALot of the stuff on my car isn't making me any power. The injectors, the UICP, my LICP is probably robbing power honestly. The huge FMIC made power which was a good part of the reason I went to the dyno in the first place. It made power based on design though, not on size.


And the DD dyno is an absolute destroyer of dreams. High FP red numbers in the low 400's, 35R Subarus in the mid 300's. Just murders your idea of what your putting down. I prefer it though as I feel it's much more honest.

I'm trying to get the torque numbers now and will edit the first post if I can get them.

/brox

 

I know all about heartbreaker dyno's. Good run.. Looks like you need to ditch that stock turbo and pick up a BBK or FP Red like I just did. You got all the supporting mods to bolt on a turbo for a HUGE power increase on pump gas. I have essentially the same mods on my 03 evo, stock block, etc, Kelford cams, FP Red... I did 409WHP @ 25psi on the CBRD Mustang on 93 octane. You can probly do the same.

Get rid of that 8 turbo... its time.

 

I dyno'd my car at Swift motorsports on there DD near the end of summer. I have everything in my signature besides the o2 housing and cat delete. I went there and my baseline was 250awhp and 240awtq and I left with 330 awhp and 270awtq on 93 pump and i believe it was about 23-24 psi. I then proceeded down to Ohio driving the 10 hrs there on that tune and put it on buschurs mustang dyno and I put down 288/288 awhp and awtq. But power on both dynos showed it falling off after 5k horribly.

So after the shoot out I came home and a friend of mine here on the forums known as JackofTrades helped me street tune the car and it pulled so much better when he was done. We decided to start over and when were done we just lowered the timing pretty much throught WOT.

Do you think this could be a issue with you also ? I know my car was getting a lot of false knock on the dyno also how about you ?

By the way how did the ignition hold up ?

 

The ignition worked like a champ. I still have a pretty large plug gap at around .027 and it hasn't missed or blown out a single time up to 8K at @24 psi.

We did have some odd knock which we added some fuel for rather than cut timing. Timing at peak was around 7-8. And yeah, boost dropped off really fast after 5K. I'm running a Hallman for boost control and I was seeing 18-19 psi at the end of the run.

I should have the torque numbers in a day or so depending when I see the owner next.

/brox

 

dam nice numbers

 

Nice work! It looks like the intercooler did its job!

 

Nice numbers.

 

great numbers!! i recently dyno'd my car on a dyno dynamics dyno i was also told it was the heart breaker because of the look on my face they reassured me that the numbers would be greater but i wanted to know if anyone knew how much greater im at 286.1 hp so what could it be on a diffrent dyno dose anyone know??

 

The 297 I put down didn't have any correction at all. It should have had Temp and Altitude which would have put the car around 305-307. The shop I went to has both a Dynojet and a Dyno Dynamics so I'd say the owner knows, within some certainty, what the difference is, more so than someone who just makes a claim.

So to get an idea of the difference, he occasionally uses what he refers to as the "Dynojet Correction factor". An example of this was done on my friends car at his shop. The "Dynojet Corrected number" was 323 WHP, his actual was 281 on the Dyno Dynamics dyno. So the guy who has both dyno's, uses a standard correction factor of 1.15 when switching between the two to balance out the numbers.

The real issue is, the Dyno Dynamics is almost certainly correct. My car puts down about 297 at the wheels, end. The Dynojet correction is just to be able to compare since alot of people use the Dynojet. Your car puts down about 286 WHP. You can however compare it to a car putting down about 328 or so on a dynojet reading.

If you want to know why the readings are different read this. It's short but you can get the idea. I'm sure there are better sites out there to explain it.

http://www.enginelogics.com/dynod.html

None of these numbers matter though as long as they are high enough to provide resolution to calculate a gain with a modification. Programs like DLL and the dyno in Evoscan work like a Dynojet does, record a change in time to increase the speed of the roller, knowing the exact weight of the roller, the vehicle, and gear ratio.

I can attest to DLL giving me somewhat accurate results on a street dyno compared to my Dyno Dynamics "Dynojet Corrected" number.

Using my DD 297 figure, my base Dynojet Correction is 341.55 plus a 3% correction due to temp and altitude gives me 351.7. My average EvoScan/DLL logged dyno readings are around 360, so within a few % points. I consider that very good honestly. I have been unable to get DLL to accurately give me the same reading as my DD pull however. I am sure I would have to remove alot of weight.

I also just recently found that my drop at around 6k is due to the Stock Evo 8 BOV, which by our measurements, is leaking about 4-6 psi at 30 psi. The throttle body shaft seals are also leaking. I imagine with those two things fixed, the number would be a bit higher.

/brox

 

looks kind of low.. is that a safe tune?

 

or aleast for an EVO i should say