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BR HTA3586 @ 558.9HP Stock Block

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Old Jul 19, 2009, 08:43 PM
  #31  
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Guys why do we have to start again a pissing contest regarding the correction factors?

Things are simple. 1.2cf or 1.0cf the trap can show its power at the track...

Personally i prefer 1.0cf just to avoid this type of arguement...

The fact is that:
At 370awhp @ 25psi on my old BR3065 i trapped 121mph (11.7 pass) on pump weighting 3400lbs with driver and 1/2 tank.
At 460awhp @ 26psi on my new FS635, which is similar power with the subject car how much should i trap? I reckon 129-130mph on boost that the subject turbo doesn't even turn...
That's a full weight, full interior except spare tire stuff car with a 260lbs driver... Thats real... No 3000 lbs with driver "full interior" car...
Thats how we measure...

@ scheides:
I agree with you that everyone should just use 1.0cf for easier comparison, but if you know the cf used it doesn't really matter if you show it...
For the powercurve on this tpe turbos i also agree that we have to rev them quite high, but then again you dont get these turbos for autocross... Their main purspose is to make POWER for the strip... And yes, a built block is a good thing to have for this type turbos since you need the revs...
Old Jul 20, 2009, 07:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by kouzman
Guys why do we have to start again a pissing contest regarding the correction factors?

...

@ scheides:
I agree with you that everyone should just use 1.0cf for easier comparison, but if you know the cf used it doesn't really matter if you show it...
For the powercurve on this tpe turbos i also agree that we have to rev them quite high, but then again you dont get these turbos for autocross... Their main purspose is to make POWER for the strip... And yes, a built block is a good thing to have for this type turbos since you need the revs...
Yup, the problem is the CF is never included in the original post, and if people would read the rules of this section, the CF is supposed to be included so a clear comparison can be drawn. I didn't mean to turn it into a pissing match, just adding my $.02 I bet this car is fun as hell on the freeway!
Old Jul 20, 2009, 08:41 AM
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I am pretty sure that the op when he opens her up has a joker smile!
I am!!!! Lol

but definely you need the extra rpm... I have never felt a car pulling all the way to 9000rpm so fast! Especially 3rd and 4th gear are rediculus! When you think that the car will run out of steam you are riding the rev limiter! Lol
Old Jul 20, 2009, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by scheides
high boost threshold then. Call it what you want but this car has no torque under 6000rpm. I've driven a 35r car, I know it's fun, but for a dd street car the powerband just isn't wide enough (IMHO) unless you really rev it out...and I like my stock block
All I see are horsepower and boost plots. I dont see any torque numbers listed, but judging from my own car its most likely making 300+ ft lbs from 5000 up. I am not going to argue that it doesnt drive like a stock turbo, but mine has a nice healthy 3000 rpm powerband and only is being revved to 8300 right now.
Old Jul 20, 2009, 11:14 AM
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Link #2 is power & torque, and it has nothing under 6000.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3327/dyno2p.jpg

Maybe the AMS VSR is killing midrange torque?
Old Jul 20, 2009, 12:01 PM
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I missed that one

I would assume that that is the case. Sheetmetal intakes arent notorious for helping torque to be sure. I have a Magnus Cast that seems to be the same (no loss) as stock after I got the MIVEC scaling dialed to match the Stock ECU SD, and get rid of the spool noise it would intermittently pick up. Amazing how during spool 2* can be 50 ft lbs and under boost it will only be 10-15.
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