nice read guys, interesting stuff.

whats the standard correction factor for most dynojets?

On a side note, R/T Ernie: whats wrong with brian lara?

 

I have no idea what 450 whp is on our dyno. I won't even guess. 450 on our dyno will run in the 10's no problem.

 

My guess for the 450hp on a Dynojet to Buschur's Mustang would be about 380 hp, and that would be good to run mid-low 11's depending on driver...

 

Like Fred said... we've found and it's been suggested to me that 15% rule usually is spot on. 382whp on a mustang... I'd expect you to trap around 118mph from my experiences.

Rolly I got scammed on a 6262 turbo I bought through ebay. I don't know why I should be surprised that I got scammed on ebay... but none-the-less.

 

oh lol brian lara is a famous cricketer from Trinidad (google it)...thought somehow it was connected ahaha

our dynojet here in trinidad has changed its correction factor as of recent, i dont know how. when i dynoed early this year it was 1.01, which is normal dynojet CF i am guessing....

currently the dynojet CF is now 1.2? how was this changed? i am guessing you will need to redo the entire inner workings of the dyno?

NOTE: i am not talking about the SAE, STD, uncorrected stuff..

 

What are you talking about then?

Correction changes from day to day. 1.01 means its adding .01% to the real hp # and .02 means 2%

Not sure what you are meaning Uncorrected should be 1.00.

 

Rav (happy new year btw),

If it changed that much it would be a combination of the actual factor used as well as weather. I'd like to see the "conditions" part of both of those runs if you can get them IF this is not do to correction factor (such as you listed) I dont see how it changed to 1.2? Thats not possible in my experience with the DJ UNLESS the correction factor is on and it will tell you the difference from uncorrected.

 

to this time , i am not sure whose dyno is reading correct. Which and what type of dyno do u guys think is reading right? it seem that everybody dyno in america read differently.

 

Aaron, happy new year, i need to contact u soon for a tune update

ok here goes. when i dynoed in march i made 315whp and matching TQ (i think i sent it to you), the dyno was SAE corrected and the CF was 1.01.

when a friend sent me a dynosheet he did recently the dyno was set to SAE and the CF is 1.2. this is what i am asking, and quite frankly confused. am i to assume if i dyno now my number would be 19% higher?

from what i have seen on our dynojets (2WD and 4WD) the SAE, STD, uncorrected type connections dont alter the CF but alter the Temp, Humidity,etc when calculating numbers

what do you think?

thats why i asked what a normal dyno would have for the CF when set to SAE.

 

Well part of my point with this is the Fact that the Dyno Jets all read the same and there is no way to really play with the # if you have a raw DJ file you can look at it in any Correction and uncorrected if you like. Ware as alot of the MD Dynos are calibrated to read like a Dyno Jet or what ever the operator wants. Many of the well known MD Dynos on here keep there settings right so you can compere them but out side this group you really have no idea if they are True MD # or not.



I feel as a tuner I can go to any Dyno Jet in the country and tune a car and know the HP # having meaning.

If you mean Real as real HP the MD setup right is a more of a real HP # ware as the DynoJet is about %15 higher.

 

cool thanks bro. i guess something is up lol....remember i was telling you about stock turbo cars with just cams on 91 doing 400whp? CF of 1.2 helps.....

 

If you turned the dyno around, you would have to run the dyno in AWD mode still to be able to do FWD cars if you wanted the car facing inside - this is something MD doesn't recommend to customers because it puts a lot of stress on the belts since all the vehicle's power is going through the belts and can potentially break them.

If you wanted to run the dyno in 2WD mode, the body of the car will be sitting outside on the concrete ramp or you will have to turn the car around on the dyno like you currently do with RWD cars.

Like you said, you don't do many RWD cars, so I think you have the optimum setup for AWD/FWD vehicles. I do agree with moving the dyno in about 6" further so you can shut the door with a car on the dyno still.

I've been to/seen a lot of dyno setups and I still think yours, CBRD's and Harman Motive's are some of the best setups out there....minus the test lab stuff I've seen in Detroit. Uh oh, guess I'm nutswinging now.....

 

I meant to ask earlier, but SloRice was it you I met at SEMA?

 

SEMA 2009? If so, no it wasn't. I went to SEMA with Mustang from 2004 through 2007. I quit Mustang in Oct. 2007 and SEMA 2007 was my last hurah with them.

 

So the truth comes out that your post has nothing to do with a "turbo atv" and your thread's whole purpose was to play dyno games with other vendors with no basis on an atv turbo kit? In fact the dynosheet was not in the original post, a moderator made you add "a sheet" to conform to forum rules requiring a dynosheet where you proceeded to then contort the basis of this thread and pretend it was about the dynosheet you added later on so you can complain about other non-existant vendors that make competing Raptor turbo kits.

Cliff Notes:

1. For a sheet of paper with a whp number and torque number that only sometimes work because the tower and rpm tach pickup is usually broken, then go on a dynojet to spin heavy drums not representing proper vehicle loading and weight.

2. For a properly tuned vehicle with whp and tq with options for weather corrected and uncorrected numbers, on a eddy brake loaded dyno where vehicle weight and aerodynamics are input into the computer so that care is taken that proper load is placed on the vehicle as if it was on the street so that when you take the car off and drive it on the street that it performs exactly as it did on the dyno, then use the Mustang Dyno. If you would like to measure other aspect of vehicle performance such as 0-60, accelleration, quartermile times, then use a Mustang Dyno.

If you want to make a controversial thread to try and demean your competitor's dynos, then post a thread in the Evo Dyno section. If someone complains, then all you will be required to do is add a random dynosheet which is not even on an Evo (after all this is an Evo site in the EVO DYNO SECTION) and then your thread can remain, where a few days later you can reveal your true intentions for the thread in the below post.