^^^

Bryan, you are the man........



Paul Langlie

 

I don't mainly tune drag cars either, like you the large majority of what I tune is street cars. It just so happens a LOT of our street cars run quicker than 11.0's. That's a good thing I guess. I've also done my share of tuning road race and autocross cars but I am sure not as many as you have, GST.

I do not have dyno comparisons of my dyno vs Switzer's anymore, if I kept all the sheets comparing different things over the years I'd have 2 tons of paper.

 

External Hard Drives Dave... you needs them.

 

I could have sworn you started a thread about that with dyno sheets at some point this year or last?

Or maybe it was the white RS? I can't remember

- Bryan

 

Sorry... LOL

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ex...urbo-quad.html

ETS built the kit on the ATV as they have done others. I know for a fact some other vendors here also do turbo kits on ATVs.

The quad is a good reference IMO So many evo's and dyno sheets it will get easy to get confused quickly. + 1 whp on a 52 whp graph makes a big difference.

Evan Smith

 

English Racing and ETS work together. The turbo kit is one in the same and they certainly would not complain about each other.

So sorry. Lulz

 

Great read I have learned so much right now I wish a Dyno Dynamic rep would join the fun but this has been very interesting

 

You said that no one else makes turbo kits for atvs on here...

Correction;
http://www.turbospecialties-race.com/
http://www.turboelements.com/index.php
http://www.streetorstripconcept.com/

There are more, I know for a fact AFI is venturing in those paths...

Seen several kits on lancers, evo's and ATVs. ETS and English are 2 separate shops, thats like saying Buschur and Full-Race are one in the same. Just cause they have worked together...

I'm just saying don't speak in absolutes if you don't know for a fact that you are correct... In this case there are more than just English here with turbo kits for ATV's...



Evan Smith

 

Awesome reading at work

 

I should have some on my lappy. The load is gonna be the same though since most of the logs I save are SD. However the only thing I have ever had to take on the street to doublecheck is the AEM Tru boost WGDC.

We were talking about this on the way up to the mountain last night and 3rd gear on our DJ is VERY close to the street, when we check the tune in 4th it takes about twice as long (we can log mph, time, rpm, etc.) but loads the car tremendously. This allows us to check the tune and get a longer more detailed log.

Power does not normally change, if it does it always is a few whp lower. However between the lack of airflow across the radiator and intercooler (despite the two 5hp fans). That brings me to my next point/thought is that the design of the dyno room and airflow has alot to do with how the car is on a dyno versus the street. If the room doesnt move bad air out well, the car will be rich and sputter vs clean air (albeit with less airflow). Cars with external gates dumping to atmo make it even more critical.

I feel out dyno room moves air well for the most part and we dont seem to have that issue except on a few hondas.

 

We initially designed the kit on my bike and had them jig and mass produce it, but it has been evolving with every iteration. It is true we work together on alot of projects but business is still business.

 

I just found a dyno sheet of the same set up on my RS and Switzer's dyno over on High Boost Forums for a thread I just posted about 8 second street cars, it can be found in there, here or on there.

Our dyno room is set up so no contaminated air stays in the building. As a matter of fact the rear of the car/exhaust stick out the door on our dyno room. Then we have a double bay door on the front right side of the dyno that gets opened, depending on weather, to pull air through the room. There are also two fans on the front of the car, measuring with a wind speed meter, that put out 48 mph air to the FMIC and engine bay if we use both with the hood open. I don't usually dyno with the hood open, I crack it to run wires/boost reference to the engine but don't like to keep the hood open.

 

Dave, sounds like a good dyno room. That seems its really replicating the street as close as you can. Thats why I wonder about other shops that you cant get airflow (and see it in videos) or might have questionable airflow. This part of the question isnt what I consider debatable, it has to be good

 

That's what happens when you move your dyno three times! haha We built our building in 1998, had the dyno in the middle of the bay pointing the wrong way........mess. Then we were racing 2 and 3 cars full time so we built the race car shop on the end of the new building we had just finished and put the dyno just inside the door with the cars pointing the correct direction, no airflow anywhere though and the cars were just inside the door enough to still contaminate the building. When the MD came we built another addition and pretty much got that one right. It's still not perfect and pisses me off I didn't think of it. A Mustang Dyno can be run in either direction and I didn't know that when we installed it. So figuring I'd tune FWD/AWD cars most we put the dyno in with the double rollers in the building. Well now when we need to do RWD cars we have to back them in and the exhaust blows in the building. I rarely do any RWD's so it's not a big deal but still ticks me off. I keep considering taking it out and turning it around, if I did that I'd also move it just about 6" further into the building too so if need be I could actually close the door while an EVO is on it, sucks being at the end of the day and not being quite done, taking the car off just to put it back on the next day. I think at this point I could actually build a pretty ideal dyno set up, sheesh, took me 3 tries to figure it out though! haha

 

hey dave, if i make 450hp on dynojet, how much can i make on your dyno . And how fast can i go on the 1/4 mile , trap speed. thanks