STM Tuned/Stock VIII
I have seen zero useful gains on any stock turbo evo 8/9 going from MAF to SD. The stock MAF is not really that restrictive at all at those airflow levels. Not until you start exceeding about 51-55 lb/min have I seen gains worthy of the switch.
To the OP-
The stock evo 8 fuel pump is the first power limiter for sure. The next ones are the O2 housing, catalytic converter and exhaust system. Then the LICP. Those will probably get you closer to 285whp on their dyno. Then cams and a good quality FMIC will get you over 300whp pretty easily, depending on cam choice. STM will take good care of you on your next session of mods
Congrats.-Jamie
Well said, Jamie.
Thank you,
And thanks to everyone else for the posts as well.
Thank you,
And thanks to everyone else for the posts as well.
It's actually quite different and far more time consuming.
I have seen zero useful gains on any stock turbo evo 8/9 going from MAF to SD. The stock MAF is not really that restrictive at all at those airflow levels. Not until you start exceeding about 51-55 lb/min have I seen gains worthy of the switch.
To the OP-
The stock evo 8 fuel pump is the first power limiter for sure. The next ones are the O2 housing, catalytic converter and exhaust system. Then the LICP. Those will probably get you closer to 285whp on their dyno. Then cams and a good quality FMIC will get you over 300whp pretty easily, depending on cam choice. STM will take good care of you on your next session of mods
Congrats.
-Jamie
I have seen zero useful gains on any stock turbo evo 8/9 going from MAF to SD. The stock MAF is not really that restrictive at all at those airflow levels. Not until you start exceeding about 51-55 lb/min have I seen gains worthy of the switch.
To the OP-
The stock evo 8 fuel pump is the first power limiter for sure. The next ones are the O2 housing, catalytic converter and exhaust system. Then the LICP. Those will probably get you closer to 285whp on their dyno. Then cams and a good quality FMIC will get you over 300whp pretty easily, depending on cam choice. STM will take good care of you on your next session of mods
Congrats.-Jamie
Updated dyno sheet after the STM open dump 02 housing was installed. Torque was bumped up in the meat of the powerband, but I am still concerned with the slow spool. Can anyone weight in on this, I thought the car was supposed to hit 19psi by 3200rpm bone stock?
Last edited by Ricoswave; Jul 24, 2013 at 12:20 PM.
You're reading that wrong. Looks like your car hit full boost of 25lbs at like 4k rpm which seems about normal. An intercooler looks like it could be helpful to your setup at this point as well. Just talk to the guys there and they will get you a list of parts together to maximize your setup and end goal. The STM crew are top notch and won't steer you wrong.
Yes, the car is at full boost by 4 grand. But that doesn't change the fact that it is only around half that at 3600rpm, which I feel in the pedal as absolute mush.
No doubt they are a good crew and have helped me out a ton, but this car very clearly has issues and it has not been easy to diagnose.
The car has other symptoms, I am just looking at the boost profile to see if it is where it should be.
No doubt they are a good crew and have helped me out a ton, but this car very clearly has issues and it has not been easy to diagnose.
The car has other symptoms, I am just looking at the boost profile to see if it is where it should be.
Last edited by Ricoswave; Jul 22, 2013 at 02:55 PM.
you realize that in a matter of the 800 rpm you're looking at, is when emery rolls into the throttle at 3200 to 4k rpm you're going from no boost at all to 25 lbs in that time span correct? That is absolutely what happens with a stock turbo
What are these other symptoms that you are talking about? Because I'm 99.9% sure that if there were other issues going on emery would have told you straight up that they need to be addressed before he'd even touch the car to tune it.
What are these other symptoms that you are talking about? Because I'm 99.9% sure that if there were other issues going on emery would have told you straight up that they need to be addressed before he'd even touch the car to tune it.
Last edited by 05OrangeSS; Jul 22, 2013 at 03:09 PM.
Please elaborate.
I have not had time to get back to the shop to have them look at the car again so I will wait to repost until it is sorted out. I am not blaming them for the cars problems, I am just trying to find out why the car is acting the way it is. I don't really care what the dyno looks like if the car feels like a pile of __________.
1. Multiple key obdII monitors are not completing since the car was tuned. Will not pass inspection it its current state.
2. The car is bucking, spitting, and misfiring every single morning the car is started regardless of outside temperature. I don't want to hear the "let it warm up" bull****, when it is 90 degrees out and the car idles for a solid minute you should be able to take off at 10mph and not have the car misfire and hesitate. After a few minutes of driving the car smooths out but the pedal still feels like mush.
The car has issues.
1. Multiple key obdII monitors are not completing since the car was tuned. Will not pass inspection it its current state.
2. The car is bucking, spitting, and misfiring every single morning the car is started regardless of outside temperature. I don't want to hear the "let it warm up" bull****, when it is 90 degrees out and the car idles for a solid minute you should be able to take off at 10mph and not have the car misfire and hesitate. After a few minutes of driving the car smooths out but the pedal still feels like mush.
The car has issues.


